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brandon_ring35

Question on load bearing.

3 years ago

First time homeowner. I can do a bit of everything and I'm doing a full renovation.
This house has a wall between the living and dining room that bears the floor joists for the second level above. These joists run perpendicular to the first floor joists.
I want to remove the wall and replace it with a flush LVL beam. I've designed and calculated the beam and everything looks good. I drilled a small hole down through the subfloor to locate where the support for this wall comes from. It sits right between floor joists with no real support nearby. It seems the entire wall holding the second level joists in this area wasn't properly supported. I've had I beams installed under the first floor joists so it at least has that point of support now.
What I've done is dig/pour footers in the crawlspace. Then laid 16" flue block and filled with concrete and rebar. This concrete column is about an inch from reaching the floor joists above. I then installed blocking between the joists that rest tightly between the subfloor and the concrete column and are nailed to the joists. There's 10 of them so they nearly span the entire width of the column. Correct me if I'm wrong but these 16"x16" support columns should be more than enough to bear the weight of the two interior 4x6 shown supporting this beam, correct? I almost feel as if inserting the 4x6 through the subfloor and anchoring then directly to the concrete would have been better.

Comments (8)

  • 3 years ago

    For a bit of clarification... With the first and second level floor joists being perpendicular, the load bearing wall in question is parallel with the first floor joists. This is why I felt it was necessary to have the support columns for this beam be supported all the way to the footings.

  • PRO
    3 years ago

    I wouldn't trust any advice on this forum relative to structural engineering. Your best bet is to hire a structural engineer on an hourly basis to check and bless your design and calcs.

  • PRO
    3 years ago

    You don't need an engineer; you need a competent framer with a good working relationship with the local division of inspection.

  • 3 years ago

    You need to get a permit and inspections for this kind of work. Because if you don't and someone gets hurt, including you, you'll be in a world of hurt.

  • 3 years ago

    I have all the permits and know the work will be inspected.

  • 3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    Brandon, I'm slightly impressed with what you've done so far, but I don't exactly understand how you''re transferring the load. You want to cut the 2nd floor joists and insert a LVL and transfer the load down at the ends of the LVL which is normal and commonly done. I got it but don't get what the I beams under the first floor joists and 10 concrete columns have anything to do with transferring the LVL load to the ground.

    Your LVL should now be running parallel to the 1st floor joists from what you said. The load on the LVL would be the total load the 2nd floor joist were supporting. The load would be transferred down to the 1st floor sub floor and fall between two 1st floor joists. Dimensional lumber the same width as the floor joists would need to be nailed perpendicular between the 2 joists on either side of where the load would transfer. Directly under these two points support pads in or on the ground are needed to support the load, and then blocked up to the load point. Load would determine pad size and this can be found in the span charts of the Code book. The span would be the length of the LVL, and the load would be only the load it holds This can be found in the code charts for a single level home. (you're only supporting the 2nd floor which is only one floor) The type soil under your house would also determine support pad size and also can be found in the code book. The residential code's do a lot of the engineering work for people concerning common residential housing.

    I still don't know what the I beams and 10 columns have to do with your wall removal. Were the 1st floor joist undersized and bouncy with a lot of deflection?

  • 3 years ago

    Hey Kevin.  Thanks for the reply.  I think we're on the same page.  


    I had the I beams professionally installed due to undersized joists and deflection.  They were 17' spans of rough cut 2x8 on 16" centers.

    There are only 2 columns that I've built.  The number 10 was describing the number of "2 by" pressure treated wood blocks nailed together between the joists.  10 of these blocks are approximately the length of the 16" block.  These are tightly positioned between the subfloor and columns I have built.  


    The idea being that the LVL is supported by the "post" that rests on the subfloor which rests on the blocking which rests on the column which rests on the footings.

  • 3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    Brandon there are 5 basic classifications of soil in the IRC for residential foundation with a bearing pressure from 12,000 PSF (foot, not inches) all the way down to 1,500 PSF. He is the CODE (here it is) and the values are listed in R401.4.1 table with the class of material for each.

    Just dig down and determine what kind of soil you have, and it doesn't take an engineer to tell you this. I'm kind of thinking your pad size is on the small size to carry the load but I don't know your soil type or total load. It can be easily figured out using the same code book, and I do believe you may have the capability to read and figure it out. Again It's not too hard and they give you the weights of building materials to figure dead load and a section to determine other load values and how to spread out the load over load points.

    Like I said before the code book has included a lot of the engineering values used in common construction, use it and you'll be ok.