Spend the money for the hardwood. It really isn't much of a cost increase over the other options. One of the few regrets I have in our house is that we didn't spend a relatively small amount of money to use hardwood in a few places.

I think I need more info about where you live, do you have pets, these are things that need to be considered when getting flooring. The cost is only one factor. Do you have basement or only crawl space ? I have 3 huge dogs that would have totalled and wood floor long ago. I have some laminate from Germany not on scratch ans still looks awesome 15 yrs later . BTW I have LVP in my walkout same length of time same good result . Neither of those floors makes a "fake" sound actually no sound other than dog feet running

I think you know your answer and need just a gentle nudge to say go for it. I've only ever had hardwood floors and they have stood the test of time, including all of the large dogs of ours who have pounced and trounced on them. $1,500 in the grand scheme of constructing a new home is probably just a small percentage of your total cost and will make a huge difference.

What is your climate? Humid? Near water?

Is your house on a slab or basement/crawlspace?

What is the quality/grade of the site finished wood and what type of finish layer (polyurethane) will they be using?

What is the quality of the engineered floor? Wear layer? Finish layer: poly or hard wax oil?

I had site finished wood floors in 2 previous houses and have engineered wood floors in the house we built last year. Very happy with the engineered wood floors which have a hard wax oil finish.

To make it even more confusing, you can also buy engineered wood floors that get stained/finished on site! You don't see this type very often.

As chispa says, it all depends on answering the questions she asked.

$1500 more for hardwood? Hard YES.

^^^Actually if you live in a very humid area, that would be a hard NO.

The solid hardwood will last up to 100 years compared to other two, especially if, the engineered flooring is thin. The LVP will be dated and will need full floor replacement. If, you want LVP, keep it in wet areas and do solid wood everywhere else. Bathrooms and kitchens tend to have more flooring changes due to trends.

What type of hardwood? What grade hardwood? What are they finishing said hardwood with? What is the engineered brand and type? How thick of a wear layer?

Given the limited information provided in the OP, the obvious choice would be solid hardwood. This is a no-brainer.

Solid hardwood. A no-brainer. We have them throughout our home and our beach house. At the beach house, the hardwood floors are literally abused with sandy, wet feet (no avoiding it even though we ask people to please rinse their feet before coming in), and they still look amazing. Our last home had 20-year-old hardwood floors that we refinished, and they looked brand new after the refinish.

100% quality engineered hardwood with hardwood plywood core.

I enjoy the beauty you can get with wide hardwood only available with engineered hardwood. The thickness of the wear layer and the composition of the core layer determine the quality.

4 to 5 inch solid can't give the same affect 11 inch engineered gives.

Solid can only be sanded to the point where the staples and groove begin. The remaining 3/4s of the wood is wasted when compared with the square footage you would get using that high demand hardwood for the top layer in engineered plank.

Here's another thought: what is included in the basic price (no upgrade)? Get an independent quote on switching to hardwood later. Then compare the price and cost of financing.

Here's another thought: what is included in the basic price (no upgrade)? Get an independent quote on switching to hardwood later. Then compare the price and cost of financing.

That would be a GIANT pain in the a** vs. doing the $5500 hardwood upgrade now.

OP would have to close on the home but delay moving in. Then rip out carpet, padding, tack strip, thousands of staples. Line up a hardwood installer that can do the installation immediately after closing. Hardwood would need to be retrofitted to the finished home (cutting door casings, installing quarter round, transitions, ect) and create a mess in the clean house.

@Loudermilk It probably would be a PITA. On the other hand, maybe the base price is carpet, which he could live with for several years while he saves up. Then he would pay cash, so he'd have no interest charges. He could choose the hardwood he wanted and custom stain. It's an option, that's all.

I haven't seen what the specs are for any of the choices. Only prices. Making a choice is totally irrelevant without more info. But people here have been pushing forward solid wood as the only choice. This spends $5500 of the OP's money. And I'm saying solid wood is never the preferred choice. My example was meant to emphasize graphically why solid wood is not a logical choice for any application. If you carefully choose a quality product, engineered hardwood is equal in longevity for sanding and clearly superior in aesthetics. What can the OP do? Offer to pay the upcharge for the solid wood if they can choose the engineered wood product. Then choose a wide plank product with quality specs. Maybe even pay more. Use this post for minimum specs and recommendations. This could be unnecessary if the offered engineered choice is really nice. .The examples I showed are from Monarch Plank. Link. 7-1/2" Verano is one option.

@dan1888 seems like he's offering 3/4 solid oak hardwood and the Bella Cera line is for the engineered wood. What's offered in Michigan where I am for that line are mostly two millimeter wear layers. There are two options that have four mm but I don't know if that's offered by the builder so far it doesn't seem so.

@dan1888 You're still not getting it. The OP has 3 PRE-DEFINED choices the builder is offering. They do NOT have the ability to "carefully choose a quality product."

The OP can pay $5500 for 100% real 3/4 solid oak hardwood OR $4000 for engineered ("Bella Cera") flooring that appears to have 2 mm or less wear layer.

Given the information provided, there is no question that spending $1500 for real hardwood is the clear & obvious choice.

Also, I'm not sure why you are so hung up on wide plank flooring. The OP has provided zero indication they want wide planks.

@dan1888

"I enjoy the beauty you can get with wide hardwood only available with engineered hardwood."

"And I'm saying solid wood is never the preferred choice. My example was meant to emphasize graphically why solid wood is not a logical choice for any application. If you carefully choose a quality product, engineered hardwood is equal in longevity for sanding and clearly superior in aesthetics."

Dan, that is your choice and your aesthetic. Not everyone shares your opinion. We owned a condo with 1" thick oak parquet - loved it. In our current townhouse we have had 2 1/2" site-finished oak installed. It is the traditional look we prefer. Wide plank, in my opinion, looks contemporary, which I can't stand.

More importantly, nowhere did the OP say that is the look he wanted.

Re Bella Cera choices

@Arabella Grainger 2mm would give you at least 1 refinish, if necessary. I like Villa Belize the light no yellow Licata tone. 7.5 inches wide. 1/2" thick and random lengths to 75" long. Bona finish is a quality product. Multi-layer core with cross layers. The wood is French Oak Quercus robur. This is a totally different species than our White Oak Q.alba. French and European Oak are denser with less open grain. I'm guessing the solid oak being offered is red or white oak from North America. The open grain finishes dark unless you cut it rift or quarter-sawn. French Oak can be used flat cut like in Villa Belize for more grain configuration. And it looks good in wide planks. That's why it's very popular right now. Plus water based urethane finishes aren't yellow like the oil based finishes of the past.

Vivaldi is French Oak 1/2" thick with 1.2mm face veneer. Wouldn't be refinishable. Magnificat and Lucio colors. . .Monza is French Oak 3/8" thick with 1.5mm face. Paderno, Adriana and Favale colors.

Ikea Vedhamn is solid wood door frames using European Oak.

Bella Cera Ravello is the best quality product with 4mm face layer. French Oak. All the lighter tones look good. Probably worth paying for the upgrade. This is Gradillo.

Reading your post, I am not sure you or responders understand engineered hardwood vs hardwood.

Engineered is not a "phony" wood floor, One is not better than the other, it is all about your climate. Your decision should be made based on your location. Any humidity, go with engineered because it won't cup. You could refinish 2mm safely, at least once. I have never had to refinish a floor, except the original wide pine in our 1840 Cape. I have built and remodeled too many houses for one lifetime. Which ever you choose, go with factory finished. You can google why, but let's start with "surprise, I didn't think the stain would be that color", and " my house is a mess from the sanding, the staining, and the time it take to dry, and then do it all over again.". I believe I can say that the finish on a prefinished floors is tougher, clearer (no sawdust). But, I don't want to start WW#3. Just my experience.

BTW, engineered floors look just like their counterpart in solid hardwood. Just do one. though out, engineered or hardwood, same brand, same stain.

This post has nothing to do with @dan1888. Just stay on course. If you newbies to houzz don't like his suggestions, so be it. Don't fight a losing game by using insults. Concentrate on @Arabella Grainger's dilemma. No one here is a houzz moderator.

Again to the OP, is the house in a humid area?

Is the floor on a slab? If yes to either of those questions, you want to go with engineered flooring.

I've had white oak 5" wide engineered with a factory finish in my SW FL home now for 4 years and they look as beautiful as the day we put them in.

In my condo which I owned before this house, we had engineered factory finished 5" wide Ipe floors that were put down in 2010. Friends have been in the condo recently and said the floors look as beautiful as when we first put them in.

@cpartist the house is in Bloomfield Michigan. Not really a humid location at all really. Just the 4 seasons. o there is a basement.

@elcieg I really appreciate the information because that's exactly what I needed to see as well as what the others said. I don't live in a humid area though. So I understand the benefits of the engineered ww if that were the case

@dan1888 Bella Cera also has the Villa Borghese line which is also 4mm. I do really like the look of that line and of the pictures that you showed me. It's so very tempting for me. But I am asking if it's just better to spring for the solid wood. However you guys have answered my question and other questions that I didn't even ask in so many ways so I appreciate it

Any humidity, go with engineered. Again to the OP, is the house in a humid area?

If yes, you want to go with engineered flooring.

I find these comments amusing. What do you consider "any humidity" or a "humid area"?

Very few parts of the United States are too humid for traditional hardwood flooring. It simply isn't a concern for 95%+ of the country, with maybe the deep coastal southeast US being an exception. Even in these areas, there are countless examples of old houses with beautiful original flooring. I recently toured a plantation in the Low Country of South Carolina and the 100 year old floors looked fantastic.

I've had engineered now for 4 years and they look as beautiful as the day we put them in.

we had engineered that were put down in 2010. look as beautiful as when we first put them in.

Citing 4 year old flooring that "looks as beautiful as the day we put them in" as some amazing accomplishment? Even the 2010 example is laughable. Very weak argument & examples.

There are countless examples of houses with beautiful original 100+ year old hardwood flooring. The three houses I've owned (original hardwood from the 70's, 90's, 2000's) "look as beautiful" as they did when new.

Isn't it great that we have a choice! Without the option of engineered wood floors, I would not have been able to use solid wood floors on a slab foundation in FL.

I also wouldn't assume that 100+ year old old grow solid wood floors are going to be of the same quality as solid wood that is available today.

I have been happy with engineered wood floors, solid wood floors and wood-look porcelain tile. Each type of floors can work for different houses and locations. I also try to buy the best quality flooring I can, whatever type it might be, and use the best installers.

@ Arabella Grainger I'm sorry. I missed that line. I like the Aurora, Guernsey and Challans colors. These are all French Oak. Ask which oak species is being offered in solid hardwood. If it's French Oak that's one thing. If it's regular domestic white or red oak, I'd pass. There's a reason all the engineered offerings are French Oak and none are domestic white or red oak. The color and grain are very popular and current. They take advantage of the non-yellow characteristic of water based urethane finishes that were not available or widely used last century. And French Oak is less yellow with less open grain than domestic oak. Pale brown is a choice now. I'd always choose engineered because the wider plank you get shows off the wood figure of flat cut better than 4 or 5" solid.

Very few parts of the United States are too humid for traditional hardwood flooring. It simply isn't a concern for 95%+ of the country, with maybe the deep coastal southeast US being an exception.

Exactly. I'm in FL. We know humidity. I'd say even in NY on Long Island there is a lot of humidity.

Even in these areas, there are countless examples of old houses with beautiful original flooring. I recently toured a plantation in the Low Country of South Carolina and the 100 year old floors looked fantastic.

Yes and note you said the house had 100 year old floors. Meaning it had old growth wood which is is more resistant to rot and termites, stronger and harder, and more stable so the wood won't expand and contract as much.

My first 2 houses were from 1927 and 1898 and both had original wood floors. On Long Island. In fact the 1927 house was in Long Beach on Long Island. Talk about humidity! And both were gorgeous. But again, both were old growth woods. Big difference.

Today's woods are not the same quality. Just look at all the folks coming onto these forums complaining about problems with their wood floors.

To the OP one more time: How wide is the solid wood floor you're considering versus the engineered wood floor? If it were me, I wouldn't want a solid wood floor wider than 3-4" (maybe 5" depending on the wood) wide because of separation, cupping, etc.

@cpartist for the solid wood I'm staying between 3 to 5 inches I know that with the engineered I could go bigger

Then choose whichever one you love the most. Both will most likely outlast your living in the house. :)

@dan1888 no problem about that particular line. But everything you're saying about engineered would is exactly the way I feel about the look of it I did not mention that originally but I really do like the look of the wide planks. I'm not sure what type of oak the builder is offering Right now it only says solid oak and I didn't see the selections yet because I originally chose engineered. But I started the second guess my decision because of how solid wood performs in the long run and it's only a $1,500 difference. But all of the points made are valid here. Thank youwood

@chispa I think that's also very important too Not just the look but the quality of the selections. It's very possible that the engineered selection offered could be of better quality than the solid hardwood or is that crazy to think? But either way I would rather choose quality overlook

Exactly. I'm in FL. We know humidity.

Without the option of engineered wood floors, I would not have been able to use solid wood floors on a slab foundation in FL.

Your experience might be helpful IF the house were in Florida, but it isn't. The house is being built in MICHIGAN!

All of these fringe use cases and talk about rain forest levels of humidity, slab foundations, ultra wide planks, ect. are completely irrelevant and meaningless. They provide ZERO value to this discussion.

Instead of assuming all of these extreme scenarios, use the facts that have been provided, along with basic reasonable assumptions.

So the two options are..."Bella Cera" engineered flooring (2 mm or less wear layer) OR traditional hardwood for $1500 extra. Given the information provided, I would absolutely recommend the hardwood 100% of the time.

Your experience might be helpful IF the house were in Florida, but it isn't. The house is being built in MICHIGAN!

And if you read through, you'd see I mentioned that she should pick which one she likes the best since she's not in a high humidty area and she's not on a slab.

As for you recommending the hardwood, it could be junk hardwood with lots of knots, etc. You don't know anymore than I know. In fact even the OP isn't sure yet, since she hasn't seen it.

As for the deep south being the states most likely to have humidity levels which would indicate engineered wood flooring to be the default choice isn't quite correct. Actually, the state with the highest humidity is Alaska.

Michigan is #7 on the list of states with the highest humidity. My state, MA, is # 17. I would never install hardwood here. It cups.

My 1840 half Cape has random plank, wide pine flooring. Installation was butting planks together. Over time gaps had opened between them because of humidity.

@elcieg that's good to know. Definitely something I was going to look into so thank you.

You can get retail pricing for your square footage of the offered 2mm flooring and the 4mm versions. The difference should give you bargaining info. Additionally, you could get samples to see in the house. If you see one you love you can get the builder on your side with that combination of the info you need to make your decision. I live in Michigan. July and August can get humid.

Michigan, not humid?? It is very humid in the summer... one of the many reasons I left.

@dan1888 thanks for that. I'm actually going this weekend to the flooring store to get a sample. Then I'll get a sample of the solid hardwood being offered as well. When I do I'll try to update the post.