Help! Staining white oak bathroom vanity without yellow or orange

3 years ago

last modified: 3 years ago

I sent a sample of how I wanted my bathroom vanity to be stained. (See picture. The one labeled "oyster") It is a white oak veneer. I want a light stain, not completely natural, but with some of the dark running through. I also specified that I didn't want it to yellow or amber after the polyurethan coating. I think it needs a coating since it will be in a bathroom. Now they are saying that it will have to be bleached after the polyurethan in order to remove the amber or darkening effect of the polyurethane. I asked them to use a water-based varnish so it wouldn't amber.

I used a Rubio Monocast stain in Oyster for my sample. They person staining it is using Mohawk Oyster blend of some sort and it came out gray. They are also telling me that in order for the polyurethane to not darken the wood, they need to bleach it and will charge me $165 per linear foot. This is a custom piece that was supposed to include staining it the color of my choice. Any suggestions are appreciated!

Featured Answer

Susie .

3 years ago

They may have to custom mix a stain for you. Not a big deal, but it will require samples. I don’t think you need to bleach it. White oak is much more “neutral” than red oak. They may need to custom mix their stains to get close to your sample, but that should not be a big deal for a pro.

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Comments (8)

Susie .
3 years ago
Why can’t they use a water based poly? It won’t yellow as much as oil based. I’ve never heard of bleaching the poly after application. Usually they bleach the wood first, but I wouldn’t bleach white oak.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/water-based-vs-oil-based-polyurethane-floor-finish/
met44 thanked Susie .
Susie .
3 years ago
I think I just misread your text. Sounds like they are bleaching the wood. Again, I wouldn’t bleach white oak. It’s pretty neutral to begin with. I wouldn’t suggest a gray stain - finishes are warming up again and warm browns are in style. How do you feel about a natural look - no stain, just a water based topcoat?
met44 thanked Susie .
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User
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
The standard "Raw" looking whitish white oak is bleached, toned, and then protected with a water based top coating. If you want it to be the look of raw unfinished oak, it's not a single step process. It's a big big upcharge because of all of the steps. Wipe it with denatured alcohol to see what it would look like with a plain water based clear. If you are OK with that look, then tell them that a plain waterborne clear is fine.
met44
Original Author
3 years ago
I don't want the standard raw look though. I want to keep the warm tones, but bring out the darker tones just a little to give it depth. So you mean a plain waterborne for the sealer? thanks!
met44
Original Author
3 years ago
@Susie I don't know what they meant by bleaching. It's only a veneer, so you'd think they need to be careful with it. I agree that gray is going out. I like a bit of gray for the grain running through, but I wanted the base to be more neutral and white toned. Thanks!
millworkman
3 years ago
Get some white oak pieces and have him make samples.
User
3 years ago
If you want white oak that looks like white oak, just clear coat it. If you want that manipulated popular finish, then you are going to have to bleach it pale first.