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seasiderooftop

Wood chip mulch and nitrogen

3 years ago

Hi everyone,
Summer is right around the corner and it's time to add mulch to my pots to help insulate them against the heat.
I read a few articles online that say that pine wood chip mulch doesn't really deplete nitrogen that bad, just on the top few inches. This is probably great news for those who garden in the ground where plants can send their roots way down, but what about container gardening?
"Afew inches" isn't really very specific. I garden in pots that vary in size between 5-12 gallons. So if "a few inches" means like eight or nine that would affect most of the soil in the pot. How deep does wood much rob nitrogen in the soil? Is hay a better option (would it have less of this effect in a pot) ?
I usually mulch with mineral options like leca and pumice, but wanted to give wood chips a try for this summer because they're just so much cheaper. I don't have the option of aging the bark (I garden on a roof, don't have a compost pile up there).
Looking for a good mulch against heat that won't zap the nutrients in my pots. Any insight would be appreciated!

Comments (4)

  • 3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    When used as a mulch or top dressing, wood chips or any other woody product (bark, sawdust, etc.) does NOT deplete or tie up nitrogen. That only happens when the wood product is incorporated or mixed into the soil and the process of natural decomposition starts. It is this process of decomposition that ties up N on a temporary basis.

    I'm not sure what you have read but it is not accurate :-)) When used just as surface application there is no tie up or depletion of N except perhaps for a very slight surface issue where the mulch meets the soil. And that is not enough of a issue to be of any concern to 95% of the plants you may be growing in a container.

    N tends to be the one primary plant nutrient that is often lacking due to its extreme mobility in the environment so is often supplemented, regardless if you are planting in the ground or in a container, with or without any mulch. And in containers, routine supplementation of plant nutrients via fertilization is very necessary, as container or potting soil is typically devoid of any plant nutrients. And the need for frequent watering - even daily or twice daily in hot weather - will leach away any existing nutrients that might be lingering. These nutrients must be replenished for the plants to thrive and be productive so regular fertilizing - "weekly, weakly" - is the watch word for container gardening.

    I have gardened extensively in containers for over 30 years and many of mine are very large to accommodate trees but I have never mulched a container. And my pots tend to be planted fully enough that very little container soil is exposed. Since just a small portion of the container soil is protected from heat with a mulch anyway, I am not convinced how much benefit it provides. But then I do not garden on a rooftop in full all day blazing sun :-))

    Go ahead and apply your mulch without concern but make sure you are fertilizing properly as well!

    seasiderooftop thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
  • 3 years ago

    Thank you Gardengal, that's very good news!! 

    I am also a big fan of the weekly weakly schedule, that really seems to be the best for potted plants.

    I have to mulch because the rooftop turns into a frying pan every summer. I also insulate the pots from the bottom and sides to try to keep the roots as cool as possible. I'm so glad to hear the wood chips won't have any detrimental effect on the nitrogen levels. Thanks again!

  • 3 years ago

    Wood chips do not “tie up nitrogen”. The reason that the soil suffers when partially decomposed wood is incorporated into soil is that the wood chip are partially decomposed and contain short-chain organic acids. See ’Compost Utilization in Horticultural Cropping Systems’, pp 113; ”Short-chain organic acids resulting from decomposition of organic matter can inhibit or reduce seed germination and root growth. Organic acids responsible for growth inhibition include acetic, butyric, propionic and valeric acids…”. Short answer; use fully composted matter in the top inch of soil, use wood chips as a mulch over the soil, keep raw mulch away from growing plants. Good luck!

  • 3 years ago

    What Pam (Gardengal) said.


    Al

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