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Deck drainage solutions?

3 years ago

Rain water pools on the surface of my 30 year-old rear deck in Northern Wisconsin. The gaps between the boards are completely sealed in from a combination of wood expansion and pine-needles and pitch. I have tried using a putty knife but the sealed sections are too hard to work with. I am thinking of drilling holes between the boards. What do you think? What else can I try?

Comments (11)

  • 3 years ago

    Pressure washer to clean out debris.

    Craig thanked Stax
  • 3 years ago

    I tried using a pressure washer with some success in some areas. But the force required to clean most of the blockage destroyed the wood, so I didn't proceed.

  • 3 years ago

    Run circular saw between boards.

    Craig thanked klem1
  • 3 years ago

    That is an interesting idea. Have you tried it?

  • 3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    I used/use a putty knife. Dog hair, redwood tree debris, pieces of chewed wood.

    Craig thanked A Mat
  • 3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    Couple times. Blade needs to be rip tooth at max depth and STOP before cross pieces deck is nailed/screwed to,you don't want to cut them. If skips bother you,raise blade to exact thickness of deck boards and clean them. The reason for having blade deeper than boards are thick is saw tracks better,safer due to less kick-back and requires less power from motor (common knowledge amongst those who often rip boards with hand held saws).

    Craig thanked klem1
  • 3 years ago

    I'd use a multi-tool with an oscillating blade. It will be easier to control than a circular saw, pose no danger of kickback, and has a thin kerf, so you won't be doing much, if any, removal of the deck wood.

  • 3 years ago

    That is an excellent idea. I was trying find a thinner circular saw blade without much luck, great suggestion!

  • 3 years ago

    To Klem1 - your suggestions are very useful and I appreciate your advice about setting the blade depth greater than the board width. Thank you,

  • 3 years ago

    Please understand saw blades are designed for specific tasks. Rip blades have larger teeth and greater set which in turn creates a wider kerf and this isn't a job where you should go against best practice. Thin rip blades are available but they aren't suitable for doing what you need here. Thinner blades begin wobbling due to heat from friction sooner than thicker blades and continous cutting on this task will create a lot of heat. Don't get hung up with trying to preserve one or two thirty seconds of lumber ,there is no reason to. If you are inexperienced with power saws for goodness sake don't cut your teeth with this job,use hand tools and sweat rather than bleed.