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gardengrl66

refinishing teak coffee table - am I doing this right?

3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago

Hello, first time posting in furniture/woodworking - I'm mostly a cooking/kitchens gal. I have a 1960's teak coffee table that has been mistreated by my family, who are now (mostly) grown and I'd like to refresh the top. It's actually a convertible top, opening like a book to double size when one wants a larger surface. But we almost never do that so the inside finish is still almost perfect. My mom occasionally applied tung oil with a rag - it's not varnished or lacquered. Here's what it "should" look like:



and here's the current state of the top (when folded and coffee-table size), water damage and some scratches/divots:



The advice I have is to sand out the scratches and water damage with 80, then 120-grit sandpaper and then finish with 220 which seems reasonable. Then re-oil with the Tung. But I have this morbid fear of sanding too much and going all the way through the veneer. I'd rather live with lighter scratches than have that happen. The table has never been sanded before, and I guess there's no way to be sure how thick the veneer is but I've gotten an opinion that in the 1950's and 60's it was about 1/16th inch, usually.

Here's a picture of my first pass with the 80-grit. I feel like I need to do more, both because I can see original color in some areas and because there are still scratches. I don't think the divot is going to come out and we'll just have to let that go:



Scratch:



Divot:



Soo...what say you all? Keep going with the 80, or switch to the 120? Something else? Thanks everyone.

Comments (2)

  • 3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    Veneer furniture wasn't built with refinishing in mind so you are correct in using caution to avoid sanding through. You are also correct that living with a few imperfections is wiser or i should say practical than going for perfection. Something with that cloud in finish suggests wax has been applied at some point,or worse pledge or other silicone product. It would have been best wiping it down with wax/silicone remover before sanding but better now than not. Since oil has penetrated all the way through veneer there is not a point of no return ( like happens if applying varnish) if you use oil for new finish. With that in mind I'd go to 120 grit and see how it looks. If you aren't pleased go back over it with 100 then repeat 120. I'd like you to try a technique I've used for decades ,there's nothing to loose and you might become a convert for future projects involving oil finish or worn finishes. Wet surface with your selected oil then sand with 150 wet or dry paper. Use just enough oil to create a slurry, add oil as you go if needed. Once surface is coved in slurry wipe it off to see how you like finish. Go at it again using 180 or 220. Each step in grit exposes detail that wasn't visible before. Some fine woods have detail that doen't fully appear until 400 but the pay off is less for others. Let me know what you think about this technique,esp ease of doing and level of appearance. You might try this to renew items not badly worn but not looking their best. If the wood features pop people tend to overlook imprefections such as scratches,dents and missing wood.

    gardengrl66 z5 thanked klem1
  • PRO
    3 years ago

    You definitely need to sand more, but put away the heavy grit and use 120. No need to get every scratch out but you can see now that there is a lot of finish left. I would use tongue oil when your finished.

    gardengrl66 z5 thanked HALLETT & Co.