You need to get the 36” white haven or learn to love the filler piece. I’m assuming based on the layer of plywood that you are getting quartz with a built up edge? Make sure you are happy with how that will transition at the face of the sink

2 Different looks. 36 would be basically flush with the adjacent left/right cabinet

If you wanted to see *some* cabinet, the 33" in the 36" cabinet, then make the GC replace your cabinet....it's not your fault someone cut the RO wrong.

Seeing that you have the sink and you can feel the weight, IMO, add as much bracing within means of your sink. It's one big heavy sink....

The 36 will be as wide as the cabinet doors beneath it. He’ll have to add wood bracing or a strap and modify the plywood maybe. And that’s how it’s supposed to be. It’ll be sturdier than the 33 because the sides of the cabinet will offer some support.

We did the 33" whitehaven in a 33" cabinet using a Pete Sink Mount system that I heard about on this forum. my husband and I installed it ourselves and it was not difficult.

I agree with Joseph almost always when we are talking sinks. I really dislike that sink and almost every other fame house apron sink IMO they went the way of the dodo for reason and so why not at least get the right size and insrtall material Joseph mentioned. And do not let that GC install it.

@HALLETT & Co. I'm doing 2 cm quartzite (Taj Mahal). I'm asking the fabricator to do a mitered eased edge. Is that what you mean by "built up edge"?

I'm aiming for a look similar to the picture below. To your point about "make sure you're happy with how that will transition at the face of the sink", will what I'm asking for translate to a style similar to the picture I shared?

Shoreline Kitchen · More Info

@Joseph Corlett, LLC Thank you for the advice. Seeing as you install sinks professionally, would you be able to weigh in on another question I have: Is there any advantage to having the countertop edges on top of the sink versus cut to fit around the sink? I probably did not explain that well, but the pictures below are what I mean:

Countertop edges on top of sink:

Contemporary Mid Century Kitchen Remodel · More Info

Countertop cut to fit around sink face:

Laguna Beach Hillside · More Info

HU:

Your second picture appears to be that of a 2 cm top with a mitered perimeter edge. They didn't want to miter at the sink cut out, so they didn't. The first picture is a 3cm through-body top.

Either is fine, except both are examples of a negative reveal which is where the top overhangs the sink. This creates an unsanitary and difficult to clean crud ledge in addition to leaving the bottom of the top exposed to chipping. A flush edge creates an elongated silicone joint that frays, becomes contaminated, unsanitary, and ugly.

Insist upon a slight positive reveal please:

This one's a little heavy, but I had to work with the existing cutout. You get the idea. Now you get a cleanable maintainence-free line between the bottom of the stone and the sink flange.

When selecting a caulk color, always bring the stone to the sink, never the sink to the stone.

That photo the lomo highlighted is what I was alluding too, that transition from 2cm at the sink to thicker at the front ruins the illusion for me. I agree with joe the the cutout should show the full bevel at the top of the sink.

@Joseph Corlett, LLC Thank you for the tip! I'll make sure to ask for the slightly positive reveal all around the sink when I meet with the countertop fabricator tomorrow.

Could you please elaborate more on your note, "When selecting a caulk color, always bring the stone to the sink, never the sink to the stone."?

Thanks for bringing up the appearance of the sink cutout, @HALLETT & Co. and @lomo. I wasn't aware that this would be an issue, unfortunately. :(

Per @Joseph Corlett, LLC's comment above...Is mitering at the sink cutout possible or is there a way to construct the countertops around the sink so that they are of a consistent thickness all the way around and still have that very thick look to them?

"Could you please elaborate more on your note, "When selecting a caulk color, always bring the stone to the sink, never the sink to the stone."?"

You would think white caulk would look good for a bright white sink; it does not. White caulk accentuates the irregularities of the stone. With a dark top particularly you'd want a clear or neutral color caulk so that woudn't happen.

Don' t have use case for a sink install anytime soon but what is the benefit of the Pete's sink mount - just short of adjustability. The weight load is still on the sides of the cabinet.

It is, but wood blocking can shrink, creating leaking gaps which you can't shim your way out of. Sink clips leak too.