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tizzle_dexter

How to wire a remote blower without using a range hood control panel?

2 years ago

I am trying to assist my father in law in setting up a custom made vent hood(actual ventilation not a cover).


We have an antique brass hood with no internals and he is wanting to setup a remote blower to function with it. He purchased a Thermador VTR630P and all of the accessories to wire it to one of their professional grade hoods.


The parts to make it work using the correct hood internals are no longer available. I want to get just a standard 3 speed blower switch and wire this in as a stand alone, however I'm not sure how to match one up without harming the motor. (Thermador was completely useless, their customer service doesn't even know what fan is in their own product).


I was curious if anyone has done this before and if you had any suggestions on how to properly do it?

Comments (9)

  • 2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    Here is a page from the installation manual, found by search engine. Note that motor assembly wire colors are not the same as the cable wire colors. In this comment, the cable colors are referred to. (Click to expand.)



    The green/yellow wire is bonded to ground; the white wire is connected to the power feed neutral, and red, blue, orange, and brown would go to a rotary selector switch (or a push button switch assembly) that selects one of these color wires to connect to the black hot side 120V ac power. There needs to be a switch position for OFF. So ideally there are 5 positions. If you only have fewer positions in your switch, you will have to use trial and error to choose what speeds you want to have.

    Multi-position rotary switches should be available from electronics distributors such as Newark, Allied, Digi-Key, etc. You will also need a knob that fits the typical quarter-inch (IIRC) shaft.

    The switch will need to be in a box that meets NEC requirements for fire protection. You may use a connector rated for the voltage and current, or feed the cable through a proper cable clamp device (e.g., a Romex connector) and use wire nuts inside to connect the cable leads to respective flying leads soldered to the switch. It may be possible to find a rotary switch with a screw connection housing (like an electrical receptacle), in which case cable termination can be by crimp-on lugs. Using stranded wire under screws needs consideration of whether they will be properly retained.

    In most municipalities, you work will need to be inspected, and you will theoretically need an electrical permit. Your state may impose additional limitations.

  • 2 years ago

    Thank you thats very detailed this was the switch i had


  • 2 years ago



  • 2 years ago

    Yes ill be doing those separatly

  • 2 years ago

    Hmmm. My expectation from the schematic is that only one of the four motor power leads should be energized for each speed. The switch description implies two terminals are on, given power to "B." However, if you connect nothing to "C" it should work for three speeds. Perhaps "C" was intended to operate a motorized damper or some other function.

  • 2 years ago

    It sounds like that switch may not be the best option for this application, (my father in law has an entire 1 bedroom house full of random stuff), I will look for a more appropriate switch.

  • 2 years ago

    "an entire 1 bedroom house full of random stuff"

    Is that all? [Further details redacted.]

  • 2 years ago

    Lol, yeah i know he could easily build a house or two with all the crap laying around. So is something like this a better option, I could run a jumper with the live wire to each option and then the lead wire to the motor. https://www.amazon.com/Taiss-Universal-Changeover-Terminals-Connection/dp/B08GR2344M/ref=sr_1_18?crid=1DOABGZF6FBB4&keywords=5+position+rotary+switch&qid=1698352784&sprefix=5+position%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-18 


  • 2 years ago

    Looks like you would wire the hot 120 Vac in parallel to the odd number terminals and the motor "taps" to the even number terminals. Note that position 1 should be the most powerful / highest speed connection; motors like to get a jolt to start. Wire to reduce speed as the knob is turned clockwise. 120 Vac neutral goes to motor neutral.