I don’t understand the beams. Are they right up against the ceiling? If so, and if they were mine, I’d remove them right now.

They were obviously wrapped and unfortunately that is what happens as wood seldom matches exactly when end butted. You can bring it up but I would not expect much other that that is just the way it is (also the issue with wrapping beams). How long are the beams? Length dependent they may have been able to use a single piece.

What was speced in the contract?

The splices certainly don't convey a rustic look.

(BTW, very nice arch!)

They are nicely sized /spaced and work with the vibe of the room, but -- yeah -- those splices jump right out at you.

That's what happens when the length is longer than the available veneer. You are always going to get seams. The only good way of handling that is better front end design, that accounts for that FACT, and uses something like a cross beam or a metal strapping wrap to conceal where the two veneers join. A lot more expensive way to go. A low price equals a lower end result.

The shorter beams (that end at the fireplace) are 15'10" and the longer ones are 18.5 ft

I see what you see. But I think that’s the nature of the length of these beams.
I know that it’s hard not to nitpick when it’s all so new, but I think it’s something you’ll get used to and you’ll forget about.
It’s definitely not something guests will notice very much.

It’s a beautiful space! And a beautiful home from what I can see 💖💖💖

It would bother me too and I'd ask. Though, I too believe that with time you will forget about them and most people won't notice them. Did you know that these were going to be veneer wrapped beams and not solid wood beams?

This was the notice we approved

The time to discuss with the builder was prior to closing and moving in .

What is the purpose of the beams?

Are they suppose to look real, as if they transfer the weight of floor above to the walls?

Or are they an attempt to add complexities and interest to a flat ceiling?

You got the later.

The question wasn’t whether the beams should be there. The question is how to talk to the builder. I would just tell them you’re surprised and disappointed, and ask what can be done to make the seam less noticeable. The worst that can happen is they tell you you’re stuck with it. Try to problem solve with them before getting confrontational.

It’s a $4500 result.

What were your expectations?

I also have boxed beams as a decorative accent and I'm very happy with the design and look! Not surprised to see the beam bashing by the usual suspects!

My builder used Radiata Pine. My beams are stained a medium brown to complement my medium brown wood floors. The Radiata Pine boards stained very evenly, so the seams are not apparent due to any color changes and you have to look closely to notice the seams. When standing in the rooms and you glance across the ceiling you don't notice the seams.

I think staining the different pieces of wood that makes up the 'beam' so their color is closer is your solution. The closer the colors the less people like me will bang their head on the wall and scream out expletives.

I would ask your builder to install full length boards. If you have any local saw mills around and there is oak around you can probably get some cut for you. You may have to settle for a different type of wood. Red oak in 16' lengths should be available somewhere. And looks very nice also.

If you want to have the beams, which I think looks good, then you may have to get different boards to wrap them. It should not be a big problem to fix. They could be finsh coated at the woodshop befbefore installing our builder should have let you know that full lengths p.plywood or lumber was not going to be used and joists would be noticeable.

There is no installing 16' pieces of solid wood that don't just end up warping. Which is why those should have been veneers, with a center band. Or Styrofoam. 16' pieces of white oak, solid or veneer, is prohibitively premiumly expensive. This is only a $4500 project. It's not a $4500+ each beam project.

The proper way to do this is with 8/4 boards that are resawn. You then get a bookmatched joint and no visible discoloration at the joint. A good finish carpenter wouldn’t struggle with this.

if you use a hardwood supplier rather than a lumber yard, you can get sequenced boards and not even have to resaw.

If only the beam designer was a little more creative.