Hi, BillMN. Yes, the intention was to Bonsai the tree, as I am in zone 5b. I had read that sequoias self-prune, so didn't want the anxiety of attempting to chop the rootball when transplanting. I no longer believe this self-pruning claim is true.

Do you think the limp foliage, which has since rehydrated, had anything to do with root girdling? What is advisable to get it through summer, since I cannot do extensive pruning until fall? And should I cut the above-ground root shown in the photo?

' sequoias self-prune '

Yes they do, but not as a seedling. Once they grow tall, in a forest situation, the lower branches that get more shade will be discarded, replaced by the upper growth that gets more sun.

You might be further ahead just to start more seeds. Call this a learning experience and do it differently next time. By starting over, it'll take a couple years to get to this point again but if you have the time and patience to do bonsai, that will be no big deal for you. ;-)

Otherwise just keep it watered and give it enough light this summer. The biggest trouble will be by next Fall, those roots will be even more thick and woody and less likely to be recoverable.

eta: Look into root pruning for bonsai. It could be that should be started earlier than you did this time.

Good luck!

Regarding the self-pruning, I should have been more specific. I had read that the roots self-prune.

Since I am quite attached to the tree, perhaps I should attempt to root a cutting? I've tried before without success, but have recently heard about hydroponic cloning machines. Have you attempted--or know anyone who has attempted--rooting conifer cuttings with a hydroponic cloning machine?

Unless someone in the wings here comments about bonsai of sequoiadendron giganteum,

your questions might be better asked at a forum linked to below:

https://www.bonsaiempire.com/forum

There are specific types of pots which are said to promote air-pruning of roots, the idea being that roots grow to the vertical walls of the pot which have a large number of perforations. The added gas exchange supposedly dries the soil, which causes desiccation of the apical meristem in the root cap. With the root tip dead, the root can no longer elongate, which forces root branching proximal to dead tissue. This can be somewhat helpful for bonsai trees because finer ramification of roots is typically mirrored in the tree's branching. What it doesn't do is provide relief from root congestion.

Root congestion is a serious limitation on growth rate (especially branch and root extension), the tree's o/a level of vitality, its ability to defend itself. It also impacts the tree's appearance. The congestion limits availability of resources (water/ oxygen/ nutrients).

It's doubtful that the roots have girdled or encircled the trunk to such a degree the flow of resources and photosynthate is hampered, but that can and will occur if the tree isn't root-pruned regularly.

S. gigantieum is typically grown from seed (a 2 year affair), but can be propagated from cuttings taken so the bottom 3" have brown bark with about 2" of green stem and leaves. Misting or a humidity chamber is required. 70*F seems to be the preferred temp for propagating.

Sequoia, like potato and blueberry, are very thirsty plants, but they don't like wet feet. The wilting could be caused by several things. Wind speed, temperature, light levels, r/h, water availability, soil quality (which can limit soil air porosity which limits water uptake). If the tree's soil was still moist when the tree wilted, it's doubtful it was under-watered, more likely over-watered which also reduces soil oxygen which limits water uptake.

Al