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Acceptable Countertop Height?

2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago

I am curious what height (above the floor) you chose for your kitchen counters, and what you think the acceptable range is?

My current (former, actually, as they are in the dumpster now) counters were 37" high. My new cabinets are also 37" high. I am thinking of raising them to 40". This won't be a permanent change - I'll be able to drop them back down to 37" by just unscrewing a few things. I could get them even lower with a bit of surgery.

(Ok, specifics - the cabinets stand on 4" legs, I'm thinking of adding casters, which will add about 2 3/16" height. And the legs can always be trimmed.)

Our family is tall. I'm a bit under 6', my wife is 5' 8", daughter a bit taller than mom, son is 6". Working on a low counter tires my back. As it stands, I use a thick cutting board with legs, to get the working surface higher.

I did find this link https://www.regattaexports.com/kitchen-ergonomic-justifying-36-inches-of-your-kitchen-countertop-height/ but am wondering what you all are actually doing?

Comments (5)

  • 2 years ago

    Correct counter height, like the height of other workbenches, tables, and tools is a function of what's comfortable and ergonomically sensible for the user. When there are multiple users a compromise height is needed, hence the "standard recommendations". I'm of pretty average height and find that most "standard" work surfaces are too low for me most of the time, except when kneading bread when they are too high.

    In a kitchen it often makes sense to have work surfaces of multiple heights to accommodate different kinds of work or different workers.

    If you make something far off what most people expect you may have an issue at resale time as the price for comfort-- I visited the house of an NBA player one time, I would have had to swap his cabinets for ones 6-8 inches lower to be able to work in that kitchen, but it worked great for him. I'm sure he was sick to death of having to hunch over to butter his toast.

    If you need cabinets much shorter than "normal" you will probably be forced to go for full custom cabinetry at an added price.

    Don't underestimate the value to your health of having working surfaces that are well-matched to your body and the nature of the work you are doing. It makes a huge difference.

    John Liu thanked rwiegand
  • 2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    We raised all counters (kitchen, laundry, all bathrooms) to 39" when we remodeled my previous house. It was much more comfortable for all of us (also a tall family) and with larger custom cabinets (not just higher toe kicks) we had more storage space. I was very surprised at the pushback when it came to selling the house (maybe I hang out with too many basketball players?) because we liked the counter height so much.

    Current and hopefully very long term house I had the island raised to 38", which I like very much. Perimeter is standard height because I have a range and needed to be mindful not to raise the adjacent counters too high. You'll also want to keep in mind the space between your counter and your uppers, if you have them.

    John Liu thanked chicagoans
  • 2 years ago

    No uppers!


    The range is already high, as it is on casters. It is so heavy, I can’t move it without casters or at least won’t be able to move it without damaging my soon-to-be refinished wood floors. The first set of casters actually bent under the range’s weight, so I am looking for heavier-duty casters.


    I’m thinking the future island can have a lower surface for dough kneading and shorter person. I can build it lower even though it will be on locking casters with outlets plugged into a floor outlet below.


    I’m not obsessed with mobility, but the kitchen’s French doors are the easiest way to get larger things in/out of the kitchen, so don’t want to have a fixed-in-place island in the way of, say, a future larger range coming in.


    Thanks for the comments!


    I’m not too concerned about resale. I plan to live here until I cannot, then my daughter wants to inherit this house, and if that doesn’t happen I’m sure the new owners will want to roll my handbuilt furniture cabinets into the crusher and install whatever is trendy in 2050. Maybe there will be holographic robotic kitchen cabinets with artificial intelligence. AI decides what you’ll eat, hologram shows the dish, robot arms do the work. Or maybe a slot opens and the food slides out, Star Trek style. Maybe its a tray of Soylent Green, because we’ve killed the Earth, or a tiny cube of ”food”, because we’re all on appetite-suppressing anti-obesity drugs and size 0. Who knows.

  • PRO
    2 years ago

    You need Axillo adjustible legs on your cabinets, and those done as free standing units, not attached to the walls. More like a commercial kitchen, or antique kitchen before cabinets became a thing. If your counters are in sections, based on use, then you can have a stainless work top next to the range, and a butcher blocked top next to that, and a marble top somewhere else. Very unfitted.

    John Liu thanked Minardi
  • 2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    I think we’re settling in around 40” for the counters.

    Cabinets are 36“ including 4” legs. Casters add 2.5”. Leaves me 1.5” for counter. If in future I want lower, I can trim the legs +/or use lower profile casters +/or eliminate the casters and thread in leveling feet - there is a 1/4 20 threaded mount in each leg.

    I may make the island as low as 36”, to be able to get body weight into dough kneading and give shorter guests a place to help out.