This is a panel ready refrigerator, not a built in fully integrated refrigerator. Extra depth of the entire cabinetry is needed to conceal the sides a bit more. But it's not a fully integrated model and also needs 3 1/2" "returns" plus 3/16" side gaps, in order for the doors to open.

https://s1.img-b.com/build.com/mediabase/specifications/fisher_and_paykel/1663885/fisher-and-paykel-rs36a72j1-n-installation-sheet.pdf

Mardi, thanks for your very specific response. I knew there was a difference between regular depth, counter depth and integrated. I’m didn’t know there was a fourth category. Very interesting. At any rate, I can see when the door is open, it sits forward. If I tell the contractor to reorder the refrigerator run portion with the crown moulding deeper, I doubt he would go for that even if he thought I was right, but I still want to make a case for getting this right. I’m sending another couple pics so you can see the crown and how the door sits forward on its hinge. Crossing my fingers there’s a way to get this resolved. Thanks so much for your input.

I had a "lazy" Home Depot install of a dishwasher a few years ago. I knew I was going to remodel my kitchen, so I didn't make a big deal of it. They couldn't install the dishwasher all the way back because of an electrical box in the way (or so they said).

I just had my Gaggenau refrigerator installed. Gag will not permit the electrical box or water line connection to be installed in the same recessed spot as the refrigerator--they have to be installed in a neighboring cabinet. They cut a small hole in the back of the recessed refrigerator location so they can run the cords out of the recessed area where the refrigerator in located. I had to fight with my GC to get this done properly because he was used to always installing a refrigerator with the water connection in the floor behind the refrigerator. My Miele dishwasher also requires that the connections are in the neighboring cabinet.

Check your installation manual for your frig (should be available online). See if they require that the water connection be installed in a separate cabinet rather than behind the refrigerator. I called Gag about this, and they said that it could void your warranty if it was improperly installed.

Hey HU! Omg! You’re amazing. yes, according to the direction, the lines and plugs need to be elsewhere. NOT directly behind fridge. And, these guys even put BASE moulding in there! WTF! When I mentioned the way the fridge was sitting too proud, he didn’t even offer to look at the directions, or roll the fridge out. He just waved his hand and said “ oh well.” It does say in the directions, there are “alternative” ways can still cause him to come back and say, “ it meets install directions,” unlike your Gag. 😢 They’ve already pulled out my house as the job site, so I’m having to fork over money for missed items. I will have to give it a whirl. Thanks a million! 😘

Okay then. I unplugged the sucker, and then removed the base mounding. When I squeeze it back in, it looks much more like I was expecting. I think the side with the line is preventing it from that corner from sliding back properly. It looks like if I got those two things—the outlet and the line placed differently like in the “alternative” image it would be much, much better. 👍 Thanks so much for your help!

Here’s the change.

They should be able to easily make a channel in the drywall and into the adjacent cabinet so the water line pushes back enough. They should be embarrassed that you (an inexperienced homeowner) had already made it 98% better. No final check until they return.

Thanks for the encouragement. I hope they do help. I will bet they never read the manual. Instead they just gave standard instructions to the subs, who just did their individual parts. The dishwasher has its power connected in the sink cabinet, so it looks like this is sort of what F&P does to get that desired flush install. I am so glad for you guys. It has made a difference through this project.

@minardi is not correct. It is an integrated fridge and absolutely should sit perfectly flush. The power connection can’t be directly behind it unless the surround cabinetry has been made deeper than standard (as mine is).

nexp Thanks for saying so. I thought I had purchased the right thing. I am still awaiting an answer from the contractor. It hasn’t been good with them so, it’s anyone’s guess what they will do. If I have to pay to get the line moved, and the outlet moved, it’s going to be quite expensive. And, like I said they’re already shifting costs to me. For instance, they were to examine the oil burner. They told me everything checked out, and it was all set. Then, a week into running the water, it sprung a couple of leaks. Also, they left my line from the fridge dripping in the basement, so there was water everywhere. They were kind enough to call the plumber, but I got stuck with a 700.00 bill for all that last week. They never offered to address it in any way.

In their defense they can’t predict when a furnace will fail. I know it’s frustrating as are all remodels. There is always something

Why was the GC touching plumbing or examining a burner? If you gave your GC the spec sheet (or even really just the model number) beforehand, then it’s his responsibility to correct the error. Either out of his pocket if he messed up or out of the sub’s pockets if they did. You’d be within your rights to withhold payment until it’s corrected.

Nexp, thanks once again for saying so. The burner had been an “open” item that might need replacing for most of the project. Finally, I was told it was not necessary to replace and that it was all set. I wonder now what they did to determine that. I have no problem paying for things that are my responsibility, but I guess there’s a fuzzy area. I absolutely was surprised though. I thought they had it serviced and made sure it wasn’t going to blow up on me, considering there’s supposed to be a warranty on the remodel. Perhaps I am wrong though. I don’t know why they’re taking so long to get back to me about the fridge. They said they got the email, and are considering it. Hmmn. Yeah, the appliance selections with model numbers were all given to the kitchen guy they had me work with very early on in the process. The communication to me at the time was that the electrician needed to know as well, so they could be sure the appropriate wiring was installed. So, it seems like everyone who needed to know…knew. Honestly, it appears to me like they focused on the other appliances, and overlooked the fridge thinking it was standard. I don’t believe anyone actually LOOKED at the specific install directions until you and I did. Thank you so much. I’d still be in a state of confusion without you.

Actually I just installed the 84” version and I obsessively check that all trades follow the directions so I was already familiar with them. Mine looks like this (the panel above is a cabinet, not part of the fridge).

Wow! That’s a beautiful install. 🫢

You’ll get yours there! At least it’s possible. They shouldn’t technically have to re-run the outlet from the breaker panel, they probably can splice into the existing box, and run a new outlet in the cabinet next to it or above it. My install didnt require that as I had the cabinet built out 1” to capture the countertop next to it.

There are recessed electrical boxes and recessed water line boxes that you can install. Be careful with the recessed electrical box if your refrigerator plug is one of those "flat" or "sideways" ones ton make sure it fits in the recessed box.

Thanks HU. I was thinking, if it was on my dime, I would try a recessed outlet box (of the correct proportions), and do something to manage the water line itself first. The water connection is already recessed, so it might just be a little tweak there? We shall see what they come up with. 🤞

Goog luck!

I will be waiting months to get one of my frig panels that was either not sent or was broken and they didn't tell me. For some reason, they did not install the toe kick for my frig either. The broken-English installer mumbled something about installing the toe kick when they come back when the granite is installed and cooktop is installed.

Hu, thanks. I wish you good luck on yours too. I just got an email back. They say the guy is just going to come back and try to smush it all in there without moving the water line or plug. As per usual, there’s no explanation of how it went wrong, or an apology. Just “here’s your bill and, here’s what we’re going to do. And, don’t ask the guy to do another thing while he’s there.”

The final accounting bill just has numbers. No explanation of items. 😖 I was told I didn’t owe anything else, and this bill is over ten grand! wot?!? They want it ready to give the guy for when he comes to smush things. I just signed over a check to them last week. Hmmn. I’ve just discovered a good number of the outlets don’t work, and the heat won’t come on. It’s already freezing here in New England.

They were part a pt two of the walk-through list I had yet to share. Things I just wanted them to know. Maybe some things I can do. Some things they can attend to? I’ve only been in here for a couple weeks, and still trying to figure it all out. Ya know?

I have no way of knowing if you actually owe them money or not, but they certainly don’t get the final check (or any more money) unless all the contracted-for work is performed correctly. If they didn’t follow manufacturers directions and that prevents a proper installation, then legally they must correct the defect. No amount of smushing will fix a protruding plug and it might damage the water line. It doesn’t sound like the heat is necessarily the contractor’s fault, it’s whoever tried to fix the boiler/furnace.

Thanks for saying so. It’s tough. I could withhold the check, and have a war. If they even got the electrician to put in a recessed plug and wrangled the line it would work better, but I think this is more about collecting a check than it is about helping me at this point.

The dishwasher was installed with the opposite issue. Too far pushed in, and crooked with screw sticking out. When they attempted to fix the screw issue, they cracked the cabinet. The oven is crooked too. I’m not pushing to get the oven adjusted. It’s just the two paneled appliances that throw the long entire cabinet run off I’m concerned about. The panels only went on last week, so I couldn’t see what I see now. They insisted they could handle the job, and the GC killed my other kitchen deal, so I ended up using his guy. I did ask about getting a house designers/kitchen designers at the front end, but he insisted he was a designer and would be all the help I needed. Oh boy. Thanks for your input. It means more than you know. :)

I don’t quite understand what I’m seeing at the dishwasher. What is the second panel at the bottom?

Beautiful hardware btw.

Nexp aww thanks. I had very big dreams for this kitchen. :) Little hard to see. Forgive my crazy pics. The dishwasher is a drawer dishwasher from Fisher & Paykel. You can see the ordinary drawer face below to a drawer, all the other cabinet and drawer faces are out to one depth, while the dishwasher is seated back further. Also one side is prouder than the other so it sits on a slant. They even left sticking out, which you wouldn’t see if they had placed the unit more forward. Looks like the nicked the finish while they were trying to fix it. 😏

You had a real winning team. Add to your list making one of the drawer fronts larger so there isn’t that big gap. Is this their first custom kitchen?

Yes but it also looks like the panels are the wrong size to there’s a huge chunk of face frame showing between them! They could have made the panels perfectly mimic the drawers to the right.