Sorry this isn’t internetable especially with the Information provided. You have to start selective demo and see what walls are load bearing, where joists cross, etc. This does not sound like a project in your skill set? Can you risk your biggest asset?

Agree with Hallett. We did *a lot* of diy over the years, but always hired out this portion. It’s not worth the risk. I would advise saving to afford hiring out JUST the wall removal (and installing headers where necessary). Then you’ll reap lots of saving rewards by doing all the rest yourselves.

Do you have a basement? If you have posts in the inner areas of your basement they will be below loadbearing walls. They transfer the load from upper floors down to your foundation floor space. If you have framing plans that can determine which direction floor joists were installed for the first and second floors.

Your DIY skills would determine whether you can do the physical work yourself. The paper work - meaning the overall design and detailed structural framing - is usually not a DIY endeavor for most people. That should at least have someone who knows what they are looking at. Also, be mindful that the "idea" of removing walls for an open concept house sometimes turns into regret if it is not done right or the house doesn't lend well to that concept.

You would need to verify second floor joists, attic ceiling joists, and overall roof framing. Depending on that and what you change, a structural engineer may be needed for new framing and foundation support. Having original plans is just a head start.

The plumbing isometrics are not usually, nor needed to be, accurate representations of where piping is placed. But you do need to verify where in walls those, HVAC, and electrical homeruns exist.

What are your goals for this remodel? Will you use any of the spaces differently?

For example, opening the entry to the living room impacts furniture layout; so does the removal of the wall between nook and family room. Eliminating the closet by the kitchen not only leaves you without a closet, but opens a sight line from the front door to the kitchen.

As for being your own general contractor:

I served as the GC on two kitchen remodels; that is, I hired the flooring people, electricians, cabinet maker/installer, plumber, HVAC, and handyman. Since I was in charge of scheduling each of these subs, and since their jobs needed to be done in a specific order, I allowed a lot of time between steps, to make sure everyone's schedule aligned. As a result, my project probably took a bit longer than if I had hired a GC. We also did some work ourselves, like remove old cabinets, remove old flooring, and paint the walls.

I was fortunate to know good contractors - on the first job, the handyman and plumber were friends; the electrician was recommended by the cabinet maker. On the second job (in a different city), the handyman was a friend, and he recommended the electrician and HVAC/plumber. Getting reliable subs is a huge part of a successful remodel.

One of the reasons the first job took a long time was because I was working full time, so I had to coordinate work in the house with my work schedule. Second time around I was retired, which made things a bit easier.

Good advice from @AnnKH - This is a big project and will also have a huge impact on your flooring as there will flooring gaps everywhere you remove walls. Are you sure removing walls is the best use of your budget?

Structural engineer needed. Will likely be needed to get permits and final inspection done too. Worth their weight in gold!

If you decide to proceed on your own, can I be the beneficiary on your life insurance policy?

IMO stop right now get a tructural engineer to ask all of these questions We have done a ton of homes DIY to a point when it comes to removing walls I am not sure of that engineer is the guy to ask he will often aslo tell you what needs to be done if you insist on removing walls . Removing a wall thta contains stairs is a whole big can of worms so IMO at best between kitchen and DR would be shoten the wall that has the cabinets and counter in the kitchen next to the DR, Flooring huge expense when trying to save money . Then you move upstairs ther eis only really one option for combining bedrooms and that is the 2 on the right and even that needs to have some info as to what is in those walls and the roof rsfters . You need an engineer NOW Permits need all the above before one step into this . If you think a GC is expensive just wait until you need to take time off work to oversee this .

Gathering information is a valuable step in this project. Keep doing that and you'll reach a point where you'll know what you can accomplish and what you'll need to hire someone to do.

I would plan what I want, call a few contractors of repute, show a plan, and it would include a very detailed kitchen plan. A good contractor will tell at a glance in the basement , structural issues, what can and can't go. But I'd bet you can do as above.

For me? It might be this....eliminating a circuitous, cut through the family room, route to the kitchen from garage, yet still allowing kids access without a traipse through your kitchen.

Preparing for what might need header and some support.

It definitely would include moving the slider, you'd want more kitchen and NO that won't hold an island, I can tell that much at a glance: )

You need a kitchen plan as it will entail plumbing/electrical and permitting.

If you are wise?

You don't rip any kitchen to studs without a firm plan for cabinetry, appliances and every inch of that kitchen planned to the fraction of an inch. You will want the wall space where the slider is......and all your flooring is a big consideration as well. To UNITY and one flooring on the first floor.

You don't need to create a barn of "open" to have an open feel. Walls define space , allow art etc. That doesn't imply closed in, or hemmed in.

You will need more help than you think and more MONEY than you think, even if DIY.

free advice always ends up costing more than using professionals.

Free and "Pro" help here is suggesting exactly that : ) Local to the site consultation....

"Any advice, tips, or tricks would be greatly appreciated!"

Do not cast shadows on things you are photographing.

While I agree that you need an on-site evaluation by a competent professional or skilled amateur, the idea that you need a structural engineer to tell you whether a wall is load bearing is absurd overkill. Once you understand how loads are supported and transferred in a building it's usually pretty blindingly obvious whether a wall is supporting a load or not. (Pro tip-- if it's not obvious then err on the side of not ripping out the wall without getting confirmation)

You might need an architect or engineer if you need to spec a header to replace a significant span of load bearing wall. If your building department requires a stamped drawing for a permit then of course you have no choice and might as well start that way..

Money spent with a good architect is seldom wasted, even on DIY projects, and can frequently result in overall cost saving and better outcomes. Just because you can rip out a wall doesn't mean you should.

An internet commenter can guide an OP if the correct information is given and the OP knows at least something about finding that information and understanding enough to present it. You can tell if you are going to have that opportunity with what an OP says and presents. In this case it probably isn't happening as others have noticed too. It is not a bad thing, it just means buildings are not in the OP's wheelhouse.

The learning curve from zero is just too steep to understand trusses vs stick built, main waste/vent stacks, having a stud finder or ladder on hand for many homeowners, or even knowing how to cut and patch drywall at worst case.

Then commenters have to be able to interpret incorrect terminology or catch everything in zoomed in pictures, I mean even in this thread some competent people didn't realize the drawings show no basement.

And this should all occur before even thinking about design.

HU:

You don't know what you don't know.

GCs don't stay in business without providing value.

All the advice you're getting here about hiring a structural engineer? It's terrible and likely a waste of money. A decent framer can tell you if your wall is load bearing and unlike a desk jockey, he knows the practical ways of getting it done cost effectively. If he needs math and a stamp, it's a phone call away. He knows who and when to call; you don't. Pay for the value, please. You will not be sorry.

Thank you so much for all the answers and the very valuable tips and tricks! We really appreciate it. We’ll be getting the key in less than a month, and the first thing we plan to do is remove the drywall in spots where we want to take out the walls, in order to identify the load-bearing walls. We weren’t sure if that was possible based on the plans, but now we have a clear answer. For sure, we won’t do anything that could damage the house or jeopardize its structural integrity. If we can’t remove the entire wall, we’ll proceed with partial drywall removal, possibly creating shelves or similar features. Our goal is to open up the space as much as possible. We don’t need extra closets or anything like that. The wall between the kitchen and family room is our priority, as we want to expand the kitchen a bit and add an island. Thanks again!

Thank you so much for all the answers and the very valuable tips and tricks! We really appreciate it. We’ll be getting the key in less than a month, and the first thing we plan to do is remove the drywall in spots where we want to take out the walls, in order to identify the load-bearing walls. We weren’t sure if that was possible based on the plans, but now we have a clear answer. For sure, we won’t do anything that could damage the house or jeopardize its structural integrity. If we can’t remove the entire wall, we’ll proceed with partial drywall removal, possibly creating shelves or similar features. Our goal is to open up the space as much as possible. We don’t need extra closets or anything like that. The wall between the kitchen and family room is our priority, as we want to expand the kitchen a bit and add an island. Thanks again!

Very seldom is drywall removal to see studs needed to establish if a wall is load bearing.

Current kitchen and family room.

We believe there will be plenty of space for an island once we connect the family room with the kitchen. Currently, there is an island, but it’s very small. We’ll also be making some electrical and plumbing changes. Thank you!

"We believe there will be plenty of space for an island once we connect the family room with the kitchen."

I am a big fan of living by faith but when it comes to construction it is best to KNOW there will be plenty of space for an island once you connect the family room with the kitchen AND all of which it entails.

"the idea that you need a structural engineer to tell you whether a wall is load bearing is absurd overkill."

Normally I would agree. But when a structural question is asked (on the internet) and plumbing drawings are supplied I like to advise on the side of safety and non-liability.

"We believe there will be plenty of space for an island once we connect the family room with the kitchen."

_____________________________

Put feet and inches to every single wall and window on this...................every room, every passage, opening

to the INCH.

Don't leave anything out

Bet I prove you wrong, and I will give you reasons, when I do : )

So you haven't moved in yet? I strongly suggest you live in the house a while before you start tearing down walls. In real life the house might live a lot differently than you expect, and your plans might change a LOT.

Echoing @AnnKH

Crazy to be making these plans before even having the key. You have no idea how the house will live. If the cost of a GC is out of the budget wait until it's not. Being your own GC is time consuming and can cost more than you expect.

I had a client the wanted to make all kinds of changes to a house they bought but did not move into yet. I advised them to move in and see where the real needs are. After living in the house for two months they decided they could live with it as is. I saved them about $80,000. And they lived happily ever after.

We move into a house that needed extensive work with layout and updates. Actually has a similar feel to your place and we lived in it for a month and then moved to the basement suite and did a huge gut job including removing walls. I just wish we had removed even more walls! No chance I would have wanted to live in it longer. I don’t really get that advice. If you buy a fixer upper to fix it up why live in it first?

It was a perfectly good house; they just wanted to change it.

The one in this post is very dated. OP attached pics.

So I should not use that kitchen lighting in the next house I design?

It’s a pretty awesome fixture. I mean what’s not to love?