Spray foam would do a better job because its an air seal but its expensive and would need special ventilation steps taken when spraying in a finished unit. There looks to be a lot of gaps and maybe just a more careful cavity fill with fiberglass would be enough.

A heat gun might be able to show whats going on beneath the sheetrock in the walls.

The R value, installation care, and type of insulation certainly has an effect on your thermal comfort. But usually at an exterior wall at the ceiling, and with wood framing, air sealing is a big contributing issue.

If that's the last joist space next to the exterior wall, you can remove the batts and use canned spray foam to fill gaps in the wood framing, then add back the batt insulation. Full-on closed cell spray foam would conquer both issues at the same time.

Also, if that is another unit upstairs, installing spray foam, mineral wool, or fiberglass batts will help with sound mitigation while the ceiling is open to areas you can reach.

Since you're in a condo, I suggest you check with your condo association/management agent before doing anything.

I've read lately about spray foam not being recommended lately. Some insurance companies don't like it for some reason. Something to do with bad outcomes with shoddy work and the extreme expense to correct. Maybe cellulose would be a good choice. My parents had their older home reinsulated in both the outside walls and attic by contractor. Cost is much lower than the spray foam.

But definitely don't do anything without checking with your condo board in writing.

Here is another picture after removing some more drywall. To me it appears that there is no insulation behind the brick facade!! Is that part of the code requirements? I am just surprised.

This work is being undertaken by the HOA so I hope they can add insulation.

I have also heard that insurance companies don't allow spray foam insulation.

I'd like 1" or more foamboard between the brick wall and the stud wall. I can't see enough to determine the structural capacity of the stud wall. It's possible to put up a temporary stud wall, cut nails and pull the existing wall back, add foamboard insulation and sealing caulk, reinstall the old wall and add batt insulation and continue with drywall finish. This, along with other careful air leak inspection and sealing of the area could get rid of the cold wall.