That project requires a gut to the studs and start over with all new plumbing, waterproofing, etc. 10-15K.

You will need to find new tiles for your shower anyway. I’d just also redo the floor. It will not be that much work or such a great expense when you consider the entire scope of the project.

That's a total rip out! Include the floor, and shower floor. The plumbing goes along with the rip.

Show the whole bath please, all angles as well...add pictures.

The reason you have to start over is that the waterproofing will be broken when the tub is removed. Waterproofing has to be a continuous barrier to water.

If you were told you " only need five tiles" by any contractor?

Get rid of him now.

You need to totally gut and start over and anyone telling you different is WRONG

Thank you

Great news. There was a miscommunication. From my contractor - "I do demolish both shower walls all the way to studs due to proper water proofing. Because of that we will need all new tiles on both shower walls" Thank you everyone for all your help.

I need all new tiles for both shower walls. Does anyone have any suggestions for which wall tiles I should select - Ceramic or porcelain tiles????????Any suggestions for favorite tiles you have used for a project. Photos would be helpful?

I need all new tiles for both shower walls. Does anyone have any suggestions for which wall tiles I should select - Ceramic or porcelain tiles????????Any suggestions for favorite tiles you have used for a project. Photos would be helpful?

FYI - I LOVE tiles - I purchased MANY samples when I renovated two of my bathrooms. While I'd love to help you find some tiles, I feel like you need to find out some more information from your contractor first.

From my contractor - "I do demolish both shower walls all the way to studs due to proper water proofing. Because of that we will need all new tiles on both shower walls"

You stated that you are changing to a walk-in shower = curbless. This means that the waterproofing will need to be connected from the walls to the shower floor + to the bathroom floor. If your contractor is telling you that he only needs to rip out the shower walls - there is an issue.

What will the shower pan be made out of? Will your contractor (i) make the shower pan (traditional water in - water out method), (ii) use a prefab base that you add tile over (example, a foam Schluter shower pan, or (iii) install a prefabricated solid shower pan?

Here is an example of a prefabricated solid shower pan:

This is the same pan as shown above (different color + drain location) that was installed by a customer:

The shower floor in the below photo was made using a prefab shower pan that tile is added on top of after installation.

You then can run the tile for your bathroom floor through your shower to create an upscale look:

The bathroom below is in the middle of being renovated. You can't simply remove the tub and replace the shower walls as your contractor has told you - or maybe there was a misunderstanding on your part about all the work that would need to be done in order to turn your tub into a walk in shower.

This bathroom below is using one of the prefabricated pans that is shown in the first photo above. Once the bathroom floor is prepped properly and tile added, the prefab solid shower pan will be even with the bathroom floor tile = no tripping hazard + allows for wheelchair access.

You need for your contractor to provide a complete scope of work for the bathroom and then you can post it on here if you'd like for someone to review it.

Thank you so much for all this information. This project is a result of some recent surgeries my husband had unexpectedly which resulted in our unexpected need for a walk in shower. I am using a contractor I have used for 20 years. These are the first days of planning for making this shower a walk -in-shower. Unfortunately, the surgeries have taken us out of town and I am trying to design this shower long distance. I really really appreciate all this information. Thank you very much!

I use 12 x24 porcelain tile for both bathroom floor and shower walls. Get a color that you like but IMO neutral so that changes to decor can be easy down the road. Is this just a shower with a entry step or will it need to be a roll in one? I like a step but if the surgery needs a roll in there will need to be much more planning.

"Surgery"...

Where is the toilet, what are the actual dimensions of the bath?

Are you expanding the shower, an age and mobility factors considered?

I understand thee urgent need........but a bath RUSH is not the best idea.

The shower will have an entry step. No need for roll in. I need a non-slippery floor tile. Will the porcelain for the floor be non- slippery or should I do different floor? I have seen polished and satin porcelain. Is one less slippery? Thank you. thank you. Thank you.

Porcelain , matte, is not slippery, nothing matte is slippery. Even ceramic can be matte...Porcelain will be fewer dollars.

Thank you so much!

dlester3 - Sorry for the confusion. I thought you needed a curbless shower.

However, the above still applies. You will need either a prefabricated shower base or a custom one made with tile. Both will have a curb - which makes it easier regarding waterproofing + less prep work to make the transition into the shower.

If it will be a custom one with tile, it will either be made (i) as a traditional water in - water out pan (= made from scratch with deck mud - it must have a pre slope of deck mud put in first + a vinyl waterproof liner over the pre slope + a final layer of deck mud that is sloped towards a drain that will have weep holes), (ii) using a prefab pan foam pan like the orange one shown above that will have a special flange drain +tile added over that, or (iii) using a method that is in between the previous two (there will be no pre slope of deck mud or vinyl waterproof liner - your contractor will use deck mud to make a pan that slopes to the flange drain + will use a surface waterproof liner over the deck mud - it could be a material that is orange like the prefab foam pad shown in my other comment - those orange products are made by a company called Schluter - but there are other companies who make similar products).

Tiles should include the Dynamic Coefficient of Friction (DCOF) in the specifications. The DCOF is the primary performance measurement that is used by the North American tile industry re: how slippery a tile is.

When looking at tiles, the DCOF should be listed - but sometimes it isn't. The specifications should state whether the tile is rated to be used on the floor.

Neither porcelain nor ceramic tiles are inherently more slippery; their slip resistance depends on the finish and texture, not the material itself. Polished, high-gloss finishes are generally more slippery, especially when wet, while matte, unpolished, or textured finishes provide better traction.

If you are not having a prefabricated shower pan installed, you will need to find a mosaic tile for the shower pan floor (unless your contractor is extremely skilled and is able to take larger tiles and cut them correctly to make them work for the required slope needed for a shower pan to function correctly). Typically, 2" mosaic tiles are good to use because all of the grout creates more friction = less slippery.

I assume that your contractor will add the needed bracing inside your walls in order to support grab bars that will be added to your shower.

Have you looked at any photos of bathrooms to see what types of tile are visually appealing to you? Is your home very traditional or is it transitional (a combination of traditional + more contemporary)?

If you post some examples of bathrooms that you like in a comment, people will be able to recommend specific tiles.

Questions:

1. Will the shower be made larger (and perhaps rectangular in shape) vs. the footprint of the existing bathtub? It would be better if the odd angles of the existing tub are changed to a typical rectangular shaped shower.

2. Will the vanity/toilet be upgraded also? The construction of the shower is the most expensive part of a bathroom renovation. Adding a new vanity + upgrading your toilet to a comfort height/shaped toilet would not be very expensive. Also, if your vanity is older = 32" in height, it would be better to have a new 36" height vanity instead = no bending over the sink(s).

3. Is your toilet in a separate water closet? If the WC isn't very large, it would be a good idea to remove the walls in order to have the toilet be part of the main bathroom. You want to make it easier to use if at some point one of you needs assistance when using it.

If you would like for the pros on here (not me!) to take a look at the layout of your bathroom in order to see if there are any issues (or a better way to use the space), you should post a quick sketch of the room (including all of the dimensions of the walls/windows/doors/etc. Many people on this forum will be able to provide good ideas/suggestions/advice that will be much more valuable than your contractor's in order to have a well functioning bathroom when the project is completed. That is not a criticism of your contractor - contractors simply haven't been trained like a designer in order to improve the function of your bathroom.

I will need some time to review all this. Thank you so much!

Confirm with the maker the written specs for the DCOF. That is the information that tells you what the non-slip factor is. You want something that is .42 or greater. People will tell you that many grout lines will solve that problem and you don't need to pay attention to the DCOF number. Not true. My bathroom floor is tiny hex with loads of groutlines and it is a skating rink!

Are you considering too all of the place where grab bars should be located?

Best of luck figuring this out from a far. I'm sure it is not easy.