I'd look at a 36" Miele with steam feature. Or the standard version with a separate CSO. Wolf also has similar options.

Miele has a 42" cooktop, or you could pair two 24" cooktops for 48 inches and put CSO units underneath or as a wall oven installation.

US electrical limitations and power sharing mean induction is best limited to a max 36” cooktop. No large ranges.

But the Fulgar Milano F6PIR487S1 and Bluestar BSPIR486Z 48" induction ranges only require 50 amp circuits. But the FM spec sheet states:

"Considering all the power consuming features of this appliance; the theoretical potential cumulative power draw could exceed the required circuit breaker rating of 50 amps...

"The system is designed so in the event that 50 amps total draw is exceeded for several minutes, it will enter into ‘POWER MANAGEMENT’ mode in which case...the rear inductors’ settings will be reduced by 4 or 5 levels and the front inductors will be reduced by 1 or 2 levels."

Perhaps with the exception of that Wolf 48" model, induction ranges all appear to not support the operation of all induction elements at full blast.

Dropping power of hobs when the paired hob is in power boost is also generally true of induction cooktops. I was writing to the subject of household electrical limitations, not induction generator circuit limitations.

FM might not know that the National Electrical Code calls for conductors sized for operation at 80% of their calculated ampacity. Also, several minutes exceeding the 50A circuit breaker rating might get it to trip. So for that unit a 60A rated feed would be better, except that the manufacturer is requiring a 50A breaker.

In general, the OP might consider building a table of important characteristics and populating it with the parameter values applicable to candidate ranges. This might make it easier to make a selection, or at least easier to make rejections.

Thank you for all the comments. I had a 48" Wolf dual range in my previous home and I was looking to find something similar but not so expensive for the home we are building. I was leaning toward Fisher & Paykel until I learned today the company was bought by a Chinese company and the quality is deteriorating. I need the dual oven so for now am back to Wolf, realizing there are electrical requirements my builder needs to know before getting started.

"I was leaning toward Fisher & Paykel until I learned today the company was bought by a Chinese company and the quality is deteriorating."

Haier has owned 100% of Fisher & Paykel since 2013 after it purchased 20% in 2009. (Haier also owns GE appliances whose brands include GE, Profile, Cafe, Monogram, Hotpoint, and Haier.) You would have to compare a current Fisher & Paykel appliance with one manufactured over 12 years ago to determine whether "quality is deteriorating".

The quality of Wolf and Miele isn't deteriorating.

Has anyone looked closely into the BlueStar BSPIR486Z?

It’s the front runner for my new home build but open to others. Can’t find one I like more. The power limiter is concerning though. Expect to need max power on multiple zones somewhat regularly

"Expect to need max power on multiple zones somewhat regularly"

Every induction range is designed to only allow "boost" mode (max power) for a short period of time. For example, the Blue Start induction range's boost mode stays on a maximum of 10 minutes. My LG induction range is the same.

Gotcha.

what about maintaining highest “non boosted“ power?

MJ: "what about maintaining highest “non boosted“ power?"

Induction ranges handle power management in different ways. For example, the induction elements of the CR top-rated LG Studio LSIS6338FE are paired into "cooking zones" and the operation of one element in a zone can affect the operation of the other:

• If you turn on the Boost function for one element while its paired element is in use, the Power Management function may automatically reduce the power of both elements...
• If the combined heat of the oven and the surface burners is sufficiently high, the output of the surface burners is reduced to avoid damage to the [range].

Read the user manual of the range you're considering for power management information.

I thought I'd check the Wolf option (IR48751/S/P) again to see if the dual 50A circuits allowed boost without power sharing. Dream-on, kaseki. Wolf provides:

Boost increases power on one zone by diverting power from an adjacent zone. If the adjacent zone is on high, the power output of the adjacent zone is reduced. The reduction in power is shown on the power level indicator of the adjacent zone. appears on the rangetop display when a zone is in Boost.

From the below table, one might surmise that the difference between full power and boost power is the amount of power sharing (stealing) that might be needed.

• 11" (279) 2600/ 5500 boost
• (2) 8" (203) with bridge 2100 / 3700 boost
• (2) 8" (203) with bridge 2100 / 3700 boost
• 8" (203) 2100 / 3700 boost
• 6" (152) 1400 / 2200 boost

I'm thinking that the electronic configuration may be similar to that of Electrolux units, where the power sharing is only within paired elements (hobs, zones). The 6 and 8-inch may be paired, the bridgeable 8-inchers may be paired (implying that while a bridgeable hob can be run in boost, when joined as a bridge they can't be run in boost, although that is not specified in the user guide), and the 11-incher might be able to supply its own boost for some period of time. Otherwise, it would have to rob 2900W of power from a number of pairs generators, a potential circuit nightmare to enable and control.

However, Wolf further provides this statement:

Power sharing allows the rangetop to distribute power among its cooking zones. When multiple zones are in use, the rangetop redirects power between zones to ensure optimal performance. For example: Activating Boost Mode redirects power from one or more adjacent zones .

When high-power levels are needed, the rangetop may reduce power from adjacent zones due to internal electronic limitations. This ensures the cooktop operates efficiently and safely, when multiple zones are in use. To restore the desired power settings for a zone impacted by Power Sharing, turn the control knob to align with the reduced power level shown on the rangetop display before returning to higher settings. The most recently adjusted control knob receives priority.

So perhaps in some cases more than two generators are in use for boost.

Someone who thinks they need all boost all the time on all eyes should be doing a giant upgrade to their electrical panel for about 600 amps, at least, so they can run all individual Cooktek units on dedicated circuits. Plus the all ovens, hoods, MUA, an all the rest of the intertwined accoutrements that all go together.

After they go cook on some induction demos.

Induction already produces higher highs than gas. You can burn the seasoning right off the pan by not paying attention, even on a ”regular” induction cooktop. People who haven’t used them have no idea how hot you can get things. No one has the attention ability to give to multiple things being cooked hotter than hades, burning pans, and melting metals.

True, but there is always the outlying case of the lumber jack camp needing all of its pasta pots turned on at once.

Okay, point taken on the high end. Mea culpa.

I’m contemplating the shift from powerful gas (thermador w 25k btu) and was looking to find good equivalencies between that and induction, aside from the oft-cited ”how fast induction boils water.”

Here’s the reality: yes, im curious about the high end… searing off a protein while also having a large stock pot at rolling boil. Hence the question above.

Of equal importance, however, I’m actually curious to hear about *all* dimensions of these ranges’ functionality - not just the high end but the low end (and in between) as well.

Can they simmer on super low like gas can? Like if I’m making a delicate sauce, etc.?

Do the ovens cook evenly? Will having one oven on 500+ broil with the other oven at 350 cause diminished performance to the hobs if they’re being used simultaneously?

Purpose is to kick the tires and see if one of these full 48” range units are appropriate or if range top and standalone ovens make more sense.

FWIW, OP, the four induction ranges that seem the best (and that I’m evaluating) are:

-BlueStar 48“

-Wolf 48”

-Bertazzoni 48”

-Fulgar Milano 48”

Maybe someone in here can weigh in on the actual all around performance and experience of one (or more) of these.

Reaching for feedback because they’re all relatively new and have almost zero real world reviews.

First, I suggest reading content in this site: https://theinductionsite.com/

Second, let me note that my Cooktek induction wok hob draws 3500W and is considered equivalent to about 30 kBTUh in gas burner heat rate. (This is still a long ways from a Asian restaurant's 100 kBTUh gas wok burner, but still pretty good for residential wok heating.)

Third, I think it has been consensus here for a while that the lowest heat levels on induction hobs are lower than gas burner outputs.

Thank you - very psyched to read through that site.

And great news about the low level output.

MJ: "yes, im curious about the high end… searing off a protein while also having a large stock pot at rolling boil."

In this example, an element's Boost mode would only be used to heat the water to boiling. That element then would return to normal mode (the water would continue to boil) while a second element could be used for the searing.

This is where actual restaurant cooking experience helps temper your expectations. Food is prepared serially, even if some is done "simultaneously" There is no situation in home cooking where you need boost on multiple eyes at one.