We had a maple of similar size when we moved in 14 years ago. It was similarly damaged. I tired for years to keep it and it was finally became obvious that it was not going to make it. I finally took it about about 4 years ago.

What ended up being the factor where it declined? Dying branches?

Each year it got less and less leaves, until one year is only had a couple. The leaves always turned a pretty red until it did not have enough leaves to make a difference.

Its not planted too deep. Its from rabbit chewing damage from a year ago. Since it grew fine this year im hopeful it will recover.

I've always heard that if 25% or less of the circumference is damaged, the tree has a good chance of totally recovering.

So, if your trees diameter is 3", then 3 x 3.14158 = 9.42477" circumference. So, 9.42477 X 0.25 = 2.3561925" which is 25% of the perimeter. But you can probably do a 'close enough' estimate. The higher the percentage of damage, the less likely it is for a full recovery.

You first picture, ryan looks like it is encapsulating quite well, even the second one I would not give up on. They are still small trees so have a lot of growing to do.

Keep an eye on them to see how they leaf out in the spring, that's a good sign showing how healthy they are.

And I've seen a lot worse; a neighbor here planted a larger maple tree several years ago. A year or two later, she had severe sun scald, I'd say over 60%. It looked for sure it was a goner, and I thought the first windstorm would've broken it off easily.

Turns out, it's still there with 6" caliper and even though it still has a way to go before it's fully encapsulated and it looks ugly, it leaf's out just fine every spring. But this is pretty a pretty extreme case of damage and will probably end up with a hollow trunk and maybe even break off once the crown gets large and catches more wind, some day.

Hi Bill, and thanks for your input. Both the two maples leafed out as usual and both grew a few feet. I guess my main concern is what you mentioned last. Not that they won't do okay for many years but as they get larger will they hollow out and fail on me. Its much easier removing and replacing a tree when they are still young trees vs when they have been in the ground 10 years or more. Having said that I hate to discard a good tree from a little damage. The cambium layer looks to be doing well all around the base except for the part in the picture where its visibly gone.

When i moved into this property I had two large maples in my backyard. It took one good windstorm to break one in half that I learned was hollow on the inside. Now maybe because of how small my two maples are that will encapsulate themselves in a few years and there will be nothing to worry about. I do tend to over think these things sometimes.

Soft maples aren't my favorite trees anymore.

I've removed 4 of the 5 that I planted here during the last several years.

If you have good soil, they might do okay.

But I would think in zone 5, you could find much better trees to plant.

Hey Bill! Soft maples aren't nessasaryily my favorite either but every tree has its purpose for a particular spot and that purpose is to grow fast so the can be seen on the inside of the fenceline and create additional privacy from the neighbors yard and to give some added fall color.

I do prefer three flower maple and paperbark maple and have both growing here. I also like various smaller cultivars of the sugar maple but they mostly tend to grow a little slower. Any suggestions for filling that area are welcome. It it is within about 7 feet of property line but can always limb up to so neighbors can mow underneath.

We got weird soil here. Pretty much every kind in different areas. Clay, sandy, rich , rocky, loomy.

I had to amend the soil with soil from different parts of my yard when I planted my arborvitae hedge. Every other hole I dug was a different soil type.

Seems alot of excavation must have happened here before I moved in for there to be so many soil types.

I did just see for faster growing varieties green mountain, red point and legacy could be good suger maple alternatives

'Any suggestions for filling that area are welcome. It is within about 7 feet of property line but can always limb up to so neighbors can mow underneath'

Back when I started here, my zone was 3b, so I wasn't real confident purchasing trees that were zoned 4 & 5 and am still a little skeptical that there will be a relapse up here in climate change, resulting in me never getting acquainted with many of the popular deciduous trees available that grow around your area.

But there are many knowledgeable people here that will see this thread and may chime in with some suggestions for you.