It may need reinstall per manufacturer's specs to function properly and with a warranty.

Ask for these or download them directly (example attached). Could be the floor wasn't level or there was debris.

A diverter may work. Curtains are ok but glass enclosures are better when installed correctly and kept closed. It isn't a submarine though.

The spray head should be aimed at the person, not the curtain or the edges of a glass enclosure. Example Lasco enclosure

Hello! It is not a glass enclosure . Just a standard tub/shower .

It is a brand new house. If the shower head is pointed even up a bit to like …use it? To wash ones self…it pours out the back.

The floor has a soft/sinking area in the middle when you walk on it .

Agree that you need the actual installation instructions from the manufacturer.

There are two issues: One is that it was not installed in a mortar bed and the bottom of that tub will eventually crack.

There are two issues: One is that it was not installed in a mortar bed and the bottom of that tub will eventually crack. It happens every time.

The second issue is that the tub was not installed with a slight inward tilt. In fact, I'll bet it tilts outward. Please put a level on that back edge of the tub.

These are significant problems and can't be papered over. Your builder will string you along with half fixes until the warranty runs out. Insist on them reinstalling the tub and do it according to manufacturer's instructions.

Thank you.! And here’s a question for you. A problem that was proposed by a family member who who has experience with this Is that a new one piece shower tub combo would be virtually impossible to go through a regular door frame. I was wondering if it would be less of an issue to bring in a tub and then to just tile around it so they wouldn’t have to do any additional knockouts. Thoughts?

" A one-piece unit with a sagging base and water that drains off the back and floods the bathroom seems like a fundamental installation issue, not something that can be fixed with foam or splash guards. "

They are looking for the cheapest and easiest way out. They will hope that it doesn't fall apart, break and have water ruin anything until after the warranty is passed.

" I was wondering if it would be less of an issue to bring in a tub and then to just tile around it so they wouldn’t have to do any additional knockouts. "

Probably, but you will end up paying for a good part of that most likely and unfortunately.

Agreed that you need to get the manufacturer's installation instructions. If this fix is added and not per the instructions it could void the warrantee on the tub. Is that a logo on the light side near the rim?

Call the manufacturer and ask if the spray foam solution void the warrantee. If so, you have your argument for a proper tub reinstall. If the only way to properly reinstall a tub is tile, that is the remedy they have to take and they have to eat the cost of it.

It seems like many idiots find this spray foam acceptable solution per the loads of positive comments on this youtube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7RKOImlZMNw

BUT, if your builders are doing it post construction, they are doing it blind and cannot see whether the spray foam is evenly distributed throughout the underneath side of the tub. If it is not, it can cause the bottom of the tub to warp, potentially not drain properly, or increase the chances of cracking.

Your builder seems like they cut corners and I wouldn't count on them doing a good tile job. If you end up with this as the remedy, you need an addendum to your contract specifying exactly how this remedy will be executed, down to the name of the products and steps they will take for waterproofing, and that they take pictures of each step, and the packed products they are using.

Lastly, is this just the picture and light or is there a big different in how far the shower wall protrudes from the bottom compared to the top? Get out a level and tape measure and find all of the uneven wonky parts of this install to see what can be causing the spilling on to the floor. My guess is the whole unit is tilting towards the center of your bathroom.

They will drill a hole in the tub, inject expanding foam, then fill and refinish the hole. Pretty simple with fiberglass. They aren't going to rip anything apart, much less upgrade a $400 fiberglass insert to tub and tile. Not without charging you 10K+.

The water on the floor is the misuse of the shower curtain. You have to have the suction cup stickums on the bottom of the shower curtain and seal it tight to the tub.

I am a little perplexed about the position of the shower head in your last picture. This surely isn't the how the shower head is during showering is it? If it is no wonder water is going everywhere. I am impressed you have water pressure that allows the water to hit the back wall.

Per Google (the ultimate authority!) the shower head should be angle 30-45 degrees for optimal use.

It looks like a rain shower head which has a wide spray and it is probably hitting the sides of the narrow tub and contributing to the water running along the tub edge.

Get a normal shower head.

I like the Speakman Icon models, which give a nice strong spray and the width of the water stream can also be adjusted slightly.

User error isn’t going to be addressed as a fix. The springy tub bottom is about an hour and a half fix, with most of that waiting between steps, while he addresses other things on your list. It only takes that long because you use low expanding foam instead of the quick stuff.

Yes to speakman cone shaped shower head. I have one in a narrow tub shower like yours. Pressure is great and you can easily adjust the diameter of the spray. Fantastic company. I called to ask about a feature on the shower head and they sent it to me for free because they wanted me to be happy and if I wasn’t said to donate it.

Are you using a suction cup shower curtain?

Hopefully can answer some questions. No that is not typically how our showerhead is. We had been fiddling with it when the project managers were here. I was just sending pics of the type of tub/shower. We have it in just a normal showerhead position, slightly angled up, not pointing directly at the floor. I believe pretty standard showerhead angle. Even with the shower curtain closed, at a normal angle of shower head, water pours out the back of the tub ledge. I will try to make a video. They came again today, said it was level and took a little cup of water, poured on back shower wall and said see look? Not coming out. The spongy floor I guess I can live with a foam fix. Still disappointing that this wasn’t done correctly at the beginning, however, as other people pointed out this is of course more of a builder grade/production home and not a luxury/masonry home. I understand the difference.

We simply feel that for a home that is brand new parentheses two months in parentheses, at a standard showerhead angle, with the shower curtain clothes without having to use suction cups, the water should stay in the tub/shower. The exact model home across the street has no issues. So again, something seems inherently wrong installation wise.
Thanks everyone !

I’m kind of surprised that people saying it just needs suction cups. The exact model across the street has a standard shower curtain, same showerhead, no issues. I’m not trying to be a smart Alec, but I am 52 years old and have you showers multiple times. This seems unique, problematic. It also seems a bit of a cheap way out to just say hey we just need some suction cups. That’ll hold the water in. That’s the same as their offer to do a splash guard. Why is ours doing this? Why is no other homeowner having the same issue with the same model?

this is of course more of a builder grade/production home and not a luxury/masonry home.

One should not need a luxury mansion for a shower to function properly.

I'd get your own level and check it out.

Pouring water down the back of the wall, it is of course going to just slide down the wall. It is more about the angle where the water hits after it hits your body. I have had showers where I needed suction cups because for whatever reason, they were more prone to leaking.

Agreed on the luxury home part . We will see what happens…it is a bit “off” per our level. They are going to cut a hole in our owner’s bedroom closet to access the bathroom to see if they can diagnose the “root cause”. Stay tuned 😬 I think the root cause is sloppy/fast work.

I still think your wide shower head spray is part of the problem.

So I wonder why this is not an issue with the exact same models with same shower heads? 🧐. I confirmed what my neighbor and had pics. Same everything.

And…our previous home had a similar wide head and zero issues. Same tub shower setup

Get a two foot level and stop guessing.

Will absolutely do that. I think my original question/concern was really how much to push/ask them to do as we are still in the 45 day/they fix things period. We have to give them time for their team to fix all the things. My original post was more trying to get some thoughts from people on this, and see what level of fix we should be acceptable with. Again, the exact model across the street has zero issues. An assistant project manager has also told me he has “walked multiple tubs” that have been installed or are being installed, and none have the sinking floor like mine. He seems to think fixing the sinking floor from. A hole in my closet will of course fix the incorrectly installed tub/shower and may also essentially “level the whole tub” to keep the water from pouring off th side. I’ll get out a level, we will do our part, but we are in a tricky phase if we have to let them “fix” things. I do have a contractor i reached out to for a second opinion as well. At the end of the day, probably more venting and also to get a vibe from others on if anyone else would be fine purchasing a brand new home and just saying well..guess I’ll just get a new shower head, a better shower curtain and let them pump some foam in the tub and move on. Just seems like ours specifically was poorly done and they are looking to remedy it without a major demo. Which i understand. Guess it just makes me a little sick about it all. Hope all that came through in my messages. Thanks everyone!

There are millions of those units installed every year. 99.9% do not have issues with water coming out onto the floor. The user’s physical body type creates the bounceback spay that hits the walls from a particular broad beam choice spray head is the usual culprit. Children with a narrow beam Speakman who properly suction cup the curtain to the tub wall never have issues.

Thank you so much Jake! I wanted to add an interesting new development I came across today that may help explain some of the issues we’ve been having with this tub/shower unit. While running my hand along the back wall of the surround, I found a vertical section that feels bumpy and uneven, almost like a fiberglass repair under the gel coat. It doesn’t match the smooth surface of the rest of the surround. I circled it in one of the photos I’ve attached.

I also took everyone’s advice and checked the tub rim with a 2-ft level in several places. I realize there is always a little “wiggle room,” and I’m not expecting absolute perfection. But even accounting for that, the bubble consistently favors one side rather than centering between the lines. It’s subtle but repeatable, and it does seem to match what we’re experiencing with water running off the back edge, the tub feeling like it’s settling, and some ongoing alignment issues.

For reference, the tub/shower is an Aker by MAAX unit (photo of the label included). I tried to look up their installation specifications to see what the expected tolerance is for leveling and whether any sort of “factory patch” is something they acknowledge or warrant, but I couldn’t find much detail online.

If anyone is familiar with this brand or with fiberglass/acrylic units in general, I would really appreciate your thoughts.
• Is a patched/bumpy area like this something you’ve seen before?
• Does it typically indicate damage before install or a factory repair?
• And how strict should the level reading be for a unit like this, especially when combined with the other symptoms (settling, water running back, caulking separating, etc.)?

Thank you all again — the guidance here has been really helpful as I try to understand what’s going on behind the scenes with this installation.

I also discovered a second raised/warped/bubbled area on the front wall of the surround. Finding more than one of these spots is making me wonder whether the entire unit was either defective, damaged during transport, or flexed during installation.

For water to flow off of the back side of the tub, onto the floor, 2 things need to happen. The water needs to first reach the back side of the tub. That would be highly unusual in a 60” long unit unless the shower head is pointed straight back at the wall, instead of downward at a human. This is a controllable behavior and fixture variable.

Then, in addition to the unusual amount of spray hitting the back wall, the tub needs to be tilted out, towards the room. You are going to need a real sized level to make any type of real leveling determinations. A 2’ level is insufficient. Go buy yourself a good laser level. They are darn cheap these days. You will use it for all kinds of home projects. Way more than just hanging pictures.

Fiberglass inserts have very low quality control. They are often bumpy and textured, with chipped edges and cracks from shipping. Have low expectations in that regard. None of that causes water on the floor.

A pic of the angle that is barely tilted up from baseline (straight down/lowest setting ) and a video.

Oh I guess videos don’t load .

With the curtain up…just pulled back the fabric one for a video..but here is a pic of the amount of water flow after about 15 seconds of it being on

Change out the shower head. See if that makes the problem go away. It should. A normal shower head shouldn’t be putting water 5’ away on the back wall of the shower.

You’d think the same issue would be happening with the same shower head in the exact same model across the street. We will certainly consider that, but in light of all the other issues combined, it is hard to believe a simple switch out of a shower head is the root cause of our 2 month old home guest bathroom problem.

Its the install period. The unit will fail with the floor flexing, not if, just when and invariably right after the warranty runs out. When I say Builders Grade, I am not saying accept it at all, it is just what it is. They don't pay high quality installers normally and time is money. I would stand my ground and get it fixed correctly NOW as it will not get better. Work arounds are for situations where your usage meanners are outside the norm, not normal usage.

Sometimes it is worth it not to go after the builder to fix important things, even under warranty.

Pay an actual professional who knows what they are doing, runs his own business and gets his hands dirty. Your builder is just going to send some guy, who watched some other guy, who once watched a licensed pro do the job! Seriously, that is the level of experience some of the workers have with the production builders.

Ugh…I mean I get it. But wow that is hard to take having to pay someone to do a job they should have done correctly themselves. Thank you everyone for all the support and advice! I’ll keep ya posted

" But wow that is hard to take having to pay someone to do a job they should have done correctly themselves. "

True, but they screwed it up to start with and they still will not admit the issue and are trying to throw Band-Aids at the problem. Up to you whether you want it fixed or accept the fact they the builder may not be or is unable to fix this issue.

Off topic, how did you make out with the double door issues?

They are sending their guy to fix it any day now 🤣 After multiple checks, it does in fact need something called the T Astrogal. Once that piece comes in, they’ll put it all back together good as new. 😬 We shall see…

" After multiple checks, it does in fact need something called the T Astrogal. "

Who told them a T Astragal is needed? No room for a "T Astragal. These doors do not use one and there is a face astragal. The way you can tell no T is beeded, is the flush bolts in the side of the inactive door leaf. A T Astragal WILL NOT FIT as the system was not designed for one. They are blowing smoke up your a**, same as with this shower setup.

Here’s the plan. Except I’m not sure what I think yet …

Here's the Akers product [link] to the model with installation instructions further down. It talks of "feet", but it could be a generic write-up for a few models. They can get knocked off, as on some 1-piece tubs I have installed they have a styrofoam block which is only glued to the bottom which has to remain.

The water off the back side is user error, even if the tub is not installed level. It would take a LOT of water to match your picture of a waterfall. And about your neighbor, I have a few daughters, all using the same tub, 1 of them caused the issue you have, the others did not. It just took some instructions and realization (and knowing there would be punishment for causing the ceiling leak for a 3rd time).

Note on the instructions it says to leave that big sticker or they will have an excuse to void warranty.