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Help! Cabinet Construction and Kitchen Sink

9 months ago

We are replacing granite countertops. Current sink placement does not allow for sufficient faucet area. Total front to back of counter is 25.25 inches - excludes 3/4 inch backsplash which we need to keep given window placement. Current front sink countertop is 5.25 inches (too much) but given cabinet construction fabricators think can only reduce to 4.5 inches. (we have 1.625 inch overhang already). With 16 inch front to back basin width of new sink this will leave 4.75 inch depth faucet area - still tight. Currently faucet is too tight against backsplash. Can we cut into cabinet cleat or rail to allow sink to come forward? 39 inch cabinet base…Thank you for any advice!!!

Comments (18)

  • PRO
    9 months ago

    We need to the issue from futher back to show us the issue . Are you haveing custom cabinets built are you keeping that very odd faucet? I have to see this from much further bak to understand your issues

  • 9 months ago

    Hi - we are keeping cabinets. Here are more pics - thank you!

  • PRO
    9 months ago
    last modified: 9 months ago

    Mount the faucet to the side in the corner part of the sink or get a taller faucet that clears the ledge .



  • PRO
    9 months ago

    You have space in the bay. Select a wall mounted bridge faucet and run the pipe behind the cabinet into the bay area through the backsplash.





  • 9 months ago

    Thank you to both Beverly and Patricia - Hubby insists on separate sidespray, so that complicates issue a bit, as most faucets now have pull down sprayer. Will ask plumber about wall mount nonetheless, but guess is that pipe would be too close to external wall (bay was add on years ago) and we live in area with freezing temps. Could not find a suitable faucet (higher end/good quality) with separate sidespray AND either top handle (to clear backsplash) or level at high enough level to clear backsplash. I did check directly with manufacturer of the faucets I selected (Perrin and Rowe) and their tech team indicated that I would be able to install base such that single ever handle was at a 45 degree angle to wall instead of 90 degree - which would alleviate clearance issue. Sounds like no one thinks cutting into that one piece of wood on inside of cabinet base is a good idea...

  • PRO
    9 months ago

    Geez you can insulate the area under the bay so the pipes don't freeze or wrap them in electrical heat tape so that's not an issue.

    Neither is finding a wall hung faucet with a separate sprayer.

    And the other option is to simply bump out the sink cabinet to accommodate a more granite behind the sink.

  • 9 months ago

    Thank you - appreciate your insights! Will investigate further -

  • PRO
    9 months ago
    last modified: 9 months ago

    Have you contemplated a different sink configuration? Perhaps something with an offset to accommodate the faucet? I do like the large, single bowl, but something like this concept could solve the faucet placement issue.


  • 9 months ago

    Thank you - a good idea but don't think I could function with the double bowls given the way I cook and clean dishes (I cook a TON) - appreciate yours and others insights!

  • PRO
    9 months ago

    Then, to answer our original question: with full-access cabinetry, like it appears that you have in the photo, I would be hesitant to cut into the top rail of the cabinet. If you were my client, I think I'd be pushing for the corner-mounted faucet idea then.

  • 9 months ago

    I know who can figure this out!

    @Joseph Corlett, LLC


  • PRO
    9 months ago

    Get rid of the tilt out. It is what's pushing your sink back farther. The cleat on the back of the cabinet is about 3/4" thick which is the same as your splash so cutting it may help with the pieces that hold the faucet in place, but it won't give you the room to move it back. If you tile the backsplash, that can give you a smidge more room as well.

    Good luck!

  • 9 months ago

    I don't think there is enough space between the countertop & the bottom of the window for a wall mount faucet. Remember that there is framing in that wall as well as the frame of the window itself. So, there is probably about 2.5" of solid wood back there. Whatever the height of the current splash minus 2.5" is how much potential hollow wall cavity you have to work with. Potential because there may be a cripple wall stud in the way as well.

  • 9 months ago

    Re TIlt Out - yes am getting rid of tilt out, although technically unless I cut into that internal support strip of wood (which Duncan's Creative Kitchens warned against), there is room given the sink lip or rim is one inch. And agree with ci_lantro re wall mount. Think I will just have to install the faucet with handle at angle (which manufacturer says can be done) - not optimal, but other options (such as bumping out cabinet) would be too complicated for what we want to get done...again - appreciate everyone's feedback! Thank you - think I am set for now.

  • 9 months ago

    Were you to use a sink strap (HUSH or similar - search Joseph on here as he recommends the brands all the time) you could easily cut that front rail way back. But, I digress you should always use a sink strap and NEVER the clips as they will fail and leak, not a matter of if, only when.

  • PRO
    9 months ago

    ^^^ This is the man to listen to

  • 9 months ago

    Thank you to Joseph Corlett and Millworkman - I will discuss the strapping with the fabricator - I had seen this online and was curious - so great to hear you would both strongly recommend - much appreciated!