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chris_stillman

Kenmore Electric Water Heater

last month

Hello, I am just starting in troubleshooting here, but figured I would throw this post in to get some input early.

Symptom: have hot water, but not as efficient as "normal"

Model Kenmore 50 gallon 153.582500

It shows code E07.

I am going to reset the power, and if that doesn't clear it- then go buy a lower thermistor sensor.

Comments (15)

  • last month

    Could one of your elements be burned out, so you are only using 1. Hot water heaters have an upper element and a lower element. Sounds like one or the other of yours isnt working any longer and needs a new element.

  • last month

    Thank you folks. Yeah the lower thermistor sensor is too buried down there. We tried to get to it but the insulation is so thick and glued we couldn’t get to it.

    It’s my brothers water heater. I told him about this forum and how I’ve received so much help over the years. Unfortunately with this situation I think we’re sunk.

    Happy New Year and Thanks again.

  • last month
    last modified: last month

    Before you give up - I think you will find it's a bad lower element. That error is common to both the Thermistor and the element - and of the two, the element is overwhelming more common.

    Lime precipitates and builds up on the bottom element. At some point the lime gets to be enough that the water can't cool the element and it burns out. When that happens, there is only the hot water in the top several inches that's being heated by the top element and so hot water runs out quickly.

    Replace the bottom element. You will notice that it's buried in lime sludge when you pull it out and may even be broken.


    If you have an amp clamp, you can always check to see if the lower element is working to confirm it's bad (or not).

  • last month

    Jake got it right.


  • last month

    Love it. On it tomorrow.

    Will fill you guys in.

  • last month

    Hey guys. By My apologies for not getting back to you. My brother is not as determined as I am. 😊

    We could not drain the tank because all of his hoses were frozen. Silliness. I was ready to defrost them and get this going but it didn’t happen. So the hose is thawing in the (cold) basement. Plus his water heater is in the lowest point in the basement. I’m thinking the water will definitely drain through a garden hose once it thaws. Any input on pumping the water out other than gravity? That’s not critical. I know we can get a bucket and do this without draining but it really doesn’t seem a good idea to me.

    Back with updates as they happen!

    Let me know what OP refers to. I certainly want to stay in your guys good graces!

  • last month

    OP is "Original Poster" - that's just you!

  • last month
    last modified: last month

    How old is the water heater?

    Typically water heaters last about 12-15 years, particularly with hard water.

    The same problem with lime buildup can make draining them to remove the element difficult. If the heater is near End Of Life already, it probably makes sense to replace it rather than repair it

    There's no point in going through the trouble of replacing a bottom element on a limed up heater that's already 12 years old, for example.

  • last month

    Gotcha. Thanks guys. It came with the house which was bought about eight years ago so ultimately have no idea, at least at this point. I’ll let him know the scoop. 👍

  • last month

    The first two digits of the serial number are the year that it was manufactured.

  • last month

    Jake, I'm actually looking for a near new hot water heater on marketplace and noticed most have the actual date of manufacture on the tag. Based on your tip I checked the serial numbers to the date of manufacture and not all brands use the first two numbers.

    A.O. Smith uses the first two digits, while Richmond uses the 5th and 6th and another brand (forget name) uses the 3rd and 4th, but good to know if the Date isn't printed on the tag.

    My water heater was in the house when I bought it in 1996 but think it might be new to the house built in 1964 which I can't believe. The serial number is 105672 something something. Could be 1972 or 1967 or not even in the serial number but it's old and still working great. Manufactured for Security Mfg. co by Bradford white I believe and they stopped selling them in the 70's.

    I replaced my well pump around 2018 and it was installed in 1974 made for Montgomery Wards. Bought a Myers pump aconsidered the 3rd best pump made but I don't believe I'll get 42 years out of it. They just don't make things like they used to.

  • PRO
    last month

    E07 usually points to the lower element or thermistor, and in practice it’s almost always the lower element burned out from lime buildup. That explains reduced hot water capacity. Before digging out the thermistor, test the lower element with an amp clamp or ohm meter. Also check the unit’s age via the serial number, if it’s 12–15+ years, replacement may make more sense than repair.

  • last month
    last modified: last month

    My usual comment: You guys rock, thank you.

    Supposed to warm up here this week, hopefully get this set this weekend with the new element. It’s only time and a $15 investment so we’ll give it a shot.

  • last month

    If you do decide to replace unit, I'd strongly suggest you look into a Hybrid Hot 'water Heater... Huge financial savings compared to electric, also Tax incentives and power company rebates '

  • last month

    Heck Yes. I got a new hybrid a few years ago and told my brother about them. Thank you Stax!