Have you done the math to see how tight the space between your faucet and the quartz backsplash will be?

This is the exact problem as your base and door casing issue.

The casing needs to be thicker. If this were my job, I'd pull the casing, install the backsplash, then replace the casing so it overlaps the backsplash giving a nice clean look.

Pull the trim and put in a thicker one or do this ^^^. Is the splash going around the windows?

Why is your light rail molding installed? That needs to be removed, the splash goes in and then the molding goes in.

It is easier to modify the moldings than the splash - IMO

You are a tease @la_la Girl. Now I want a tour of your whole kitchen.

@la_la Girl That looks great! I'm with Kendrah about that tour! Sign me up. I already love the shape of your glass door!

@la_la girl - your kitchen window/backsplash/trim resolution is the best one. The moulding still exists, but the new backsplash is done properly. Great photo to explain your solution.

Thank you all for your helpful suggestions.

The countertop installer is suggesting to add a backing to the casing after the installation of the backsplash and countertop is done since the wall is not straight. Would it not be more difficult to remove the casing and add the backing after the backsplash installation? The casings were replaced last month, they are 3/4" thick and they do not have a 90-degree edges.

@Debbi Washburn. The cabinet maker insisted to put on light rail molding (light valance), it will be removed, trimmed and put back on. The splash will go around the window but stop under the cabinets (blue arrows in the picture)

You suggested to "put in a thicker one or do this ^^^"? Can you please clarify " ^^^"? Thanks.

Pull the casing, build the jambs out the thickness of the splash, reinstall the casing.

Why is the light rail recessed? Why get full overlay if you leave your doors and finished side panels hanging exposed at the bottom and sides. I prefer them flush with door fronts and side panels, if you have full overlay doors. Now is the time to change it if you want.

What I meant by " do this ^^^" was to follow the advice of the post before mine - those are arrows pointing up to PPF. 's suggestion.

I will also say that we have never installed the light rail until the backsplash is installed. Pulling it back out and reinstalling could damage it. It also needs to be cut back. But that is how we work.

Good luck!

My countertop installer is suggesting to have the wood trims (casing) removed and have the quartz backsplash all around the window (sides 4") and at the top (8") (green arrows in the picture). Do you think that would look good?

Thanks.

It would good I think

It may feel more open. Right now the trim seems squeezed

I think your installer is on the right track. Add a windowsill in quartz as well, which makes a lovely spot for a plant.

It will look much cleaner and. Mote integrated, esp with such a small space above the window

The installer sent me a picture of their project (see below) where they wrap the window with the stone. The stone is not installed to the edge of the window, about 1/4" of the wood is showing. Because of the position of handles on my window, the inside cannot be quartz. Mine would be similar to the picture but I find it does not look clean or finished.

I would appreciate your thoughts on this.

@la_la Girl - I want to see more also!!!!