Remove the toilet, open up the wall and do it right.

Lynn, we plan to do it right--remove the toilet, open the wall, install a sheet of plywood over the carrier. Those are the Toto instructions. The question is, how to finish the wall after the plywood is attached. Clearance requirements mean we need to mount the toilet directly against the plywood, no extra layer of drywall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNw3Sy4uP1Y

Direct from Toto. As you can see the framing in the wall will have to change to adapt to the Toto frame.

Yes. I've sent that exact video to our contractor. The framing was done correctly (of course we'll double check when the wall is open). The plumber did the framing and then assumed the contractor would finish with the plywood overlay before drywalling. I'm asking for design ideas for the switch from drywall to plywood overlaying the toilet carrier.

Not a pro but I think whatever finish I did, I’d likely want it continued up thru the niche - with the smaller bath, I’d probably want something low contrast but the plywood may not give that option

I wonder about the oak veneer panel that you mentioned - reminds me of this a bit

any option for a modern linear tile? probably too thick with prep substrate but just thought i would mention

Thanks @la_la Girl, that picture is helpful! Plywood to the ceiling is worth considering. It's such a tiny room, adding a third wall surface is a huge bummer. Your picture might be the best way to do it.

No on tile--would create even thicker walls.

I wonder if you pickled the oak whether it would lighten it up a bit and help it recede?

sorry to hear you’re dealing with this - you must so want to be done :/

Niotsure if its possible but i would use blocking inside the studs but have the blocking set back the depth of the plywood so it could all be sheetrocked level again..

I don't think recessed blocking is possible. The steel carrier frame is flush with the front edge of the 2x4 framing.

@la_la Girl pickling is an interesting idea! Another option I thought of over morning coffee is putting plywood over the carrier only, narrow flat trim around the drywall/plywood join, and paint it all the same color. And in another year or two when I have bandwidth, grasscloth-look vinyl wallpaper over the whole room.

@la_la Girl has added a good example - plus, the comment made me think of an idea. Instead of pickling some oak plywood - you could order some rift sawn white oak veneered plywood. It's a bit more expensive than pre-made plain sawn white oak plywood - however, it's not that expensive + you don't need a lot of it + it will look much nicer.

You also could use reconstituted RSWO veneer = it will be very consistent in color + grain lines.

Veneer can be placed on different types of backing (adhesive type backing or not + different thicknesses) - you can also have it added to a sheet of plywood.

You also could use some other type of wood veneered plywood - there are a lot of species of wood available.

Here is just one veneer seller - my understanding is that this business delivers nice veneer.

https://wisewoodveneer.com/

The wood panels will be a "neutral" - and not like mixing in another type of tile or wallpaper.

MDO plywood, tape, spackle and paint to match the drywall. Or notch the studs, plywood and then the drywall.

I agree with millworkman. I think it's your best and least expensive option. If it's done correctly, you shouldn't be able to tell the difference. I'm so sorry for your trouble. Sometimes the smallest projects bring the largest problems.

Good news ✨

Excellent. Seems like the easiest and least expensive solution.

I am not aware of any wall hung toilet that relies on the wall finish to hold it. The carrier, which is mounted to studs, keeps the bowl from "sagging."

The wall finish isn't holding it, the carrier does that. The wall has to be rigid to hold up to the stress of someone sitting. Is what I've picked up from multiple reputable forums (terrylove.com, finehomebuilding.com, etc).

The wall finish can be, and is almost always, 1/2" drywall sometimes with tile. Those are not durable in terms of supporting a toilet, and that is ok because the bolts into the carrier is what holds the toilet, even if you left the wall finish off.

If your toilet is moving, then I would bet that the studs have been compromised by either plumbing notches or nailing that has blown out the end, thus the carrier moves.

Thanks. When the wall is opened we will definitley inspect for those. Curious--are you saying that Toto's requirement for 1/2" thick plywood across the carrier is unnecessary?

I don't see that requirement in any installation instructions, so share where you are getting yours. Carriers are flush to studs, so setting back 1/2" for plywood will not "solidify" a carrier mounting. When you provide backers behind walls, you always use 3/4" ply if not nominal wood.

You don't set the carrier back 1/2". You install flush to the studs, then put plywood in front, screwed to the face of the studs. Here's a Toto installation video.

I downloaded install instructions a few weeks ago, I swear at least one of the carrier specs called for plywood wall. But I can't find it now. The specs online are silent. But Toto has video instructions up on YouTube. Plywood instructions start around 5:30. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNw3Sy4uP1Y

I would just follow the included installation directions for your specific model. I don't know of any 1/2" plywood that is needed to support the face of a carrier or the bowl itself. If you are hesitant, call TotoUSA technical support line. But surely this is a framing problem.