This is one of those remodel conversations about expectations that can easily fall through the cracks. If you have a high sheen on the counter and on the backsplash, moving the lights front to back under the cabs will probably have little improved results. If all of the LED's are on a house switch, you could add a electronic low voltage dimmer (different from a standard dimmer) which will be a trade off in brightness but you have high reflectivity on your surface. Otherwise, you'll need lighting with a more opaque diffuser lens over the lights. Lastly, a great finisher/fabricator (cough-ahem) could make an additional diffuser out of frosted plexiglass and craftily mount it on the existing light strips. There are a few varieties of opaque levels in plexiglass to experiment with to see what transmittance will do the trick.

This is one of the reasons I went off highly polished surfaces - wish I'd have posted about the problem, as I may have saved you this inconvenience ! Good word of warning to others ! And excellent ideas to help defuse the situation (pun intended !)
Hope you get it resolved !!

You were very correct in asking the the GC to install the fixtures a few inches back from the front. Installing in this location would reduce the glare from the backsplash. Having a polished surface, as PlanOne mentioned, will always result in a reflection of light. Foresight mentioned a dimmer and they are correct as this will reduce the intensity of the glare.

Glare from any type of counter top illumination (xenon, florescent & LED) always happens. The counter top vender could have mentioned this fact. When items are placed onto the counter top the glare is usually less of a distraction. Consider having the fixtures moved to 9 inches out from the backsplash as the contractor was verbally directed under one cabinet and gauge the results.

ugh. call the electrician back and have them move those lights. hopefully that will help.

i'm not sure what the housing is made of on those lights, but would there be a way to modify them so that the cover is frosted? not sure how that would work, or if it's even possible.

Hi Jacquelyn, sorry to hear that. Highly polished granite and a glass backsplash are basically adding mirrors all over the kitchen. The more light sources -- whether natural sunlight or artificial, diffused or otherwise -- the more light rays will be reflected into your eyes. If you have or plan to install recessed LED ceiling lights, they may also be reflected. I agree with OnePlan.
If the counter top is matte (like Corian), seamlessly merged with the same material as the backsplash, then under cabinet LED lighting can work quite nicely.

Hey Jacquelyn; Your best bet is with the diffuser. Assuming you have gone for high power LED strips; not sure moving it to the front of cabinet would make much difference anyways ( aren't these 2 row LEDs? they must be very harsh).. Check if these diffusers fit.
http://bit.ly/1fEwln2

If you wish, first test several frosted materials to reduce glare before making these custom shades. We have and the results are just a more diffused glare, sorry :(

You can try attaching some light diffuser film over the LED strip. You can get some sheets of it for pretty cheap from this company:
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/light-diffuser-films

Thank you for all of the comments. I have been freaking out about this. Unfortunately, I really love granite and I couldn't imagine getting Corian or something else. Also, the glass tile backsplash is gorgeous and lends a high-end look to our kitchen, and also makes our tiny kitchen space look bigger, so not sure I regret that decision either (yet). I had no idea these LED undercabinet lights would be a problem. I had no issues with glare with our last kitchen - although there it was a ceramic tile backsplash, darker (still polished) granite, and fluorescent undercabinet lights. I wasn't crazy about the GE flourescent lights that we had before - they did not hold up well, seemed archaic and took forever to turn on. Everyone complains about halogen and xenon spotlights getting too hot, burning the cabinets, and creating light halos, so what option is there left but LEDs?

I called my LED light manufacturer (Juno Lighting group) to ask for technical assistance and they were not much help, unfortunately. They said you are going to have glare no matter what. They do not make any additional diffusers. We did not put these undercabinet lights on a dimmer (perhaps a mistake) because we have multiple kitchen lights and didn't want so many 4 light switches in parallel in such a small space - it would look ridiculous. So we have the undercabinet lights wired to 1 of the 3 switches on a 3 rocker switch, which you can't get with dimming capability. I am going to force the electrician to move it up to the front, as that is what I asked for to begin with. Hopefully this doesn't create a mess of unsightly screw holes. I'm *praying* that perhaps it's the combination of the nice/ bright LED lights being in the back and having a glass backsplash that is making the glare so bad. No one else complained of this issue - the Juno LED lights actually get pretty decent reviews online. If this doesn't fix it, perhaps I need to look into getting a custom diffuser. I don't see many good options for making my granite countertop less shiny - I read that honed granite countertops can show smudges, those have their own set of problems. And matte finish sealers are topical only and don't penetrate. Unless I'm missing something please let me know. *Sigh* - just when I thought I was nearly done with this kitchen project!

Since LED's are much cooler than other types you could go to an office supply store or if you know someone who does drafting, and get some drafting film, also known as mylar. It is generally a frosted white and can easily be cut to shape. Maybe make some diffusers from this and see if it helps.

I would strongly suggest leaving your granite alone. Drop the notion of messing with the finish, especially now that its installed. I would remove the UC lights before even considering such a thing as far as priorities go. As to this dimming capability, I would ask some more questions on finding a solution to add a dimmer, there are many control options out there, both residential as well as display cabinet electronics.

Juno can't change the way light travels and reflects. Foresight is correct in stating that there are dimmers for most all LED light source. May I also suggest that you do not "force" any trades person if you wish to have your home completed with quality workmanship. Written directions are most often the efficient method to communicate and you will have a record of your requests. ClearLED.biz

Not sure whether this will make you feel better, but we've found that even with matte finish countertops (soapstone), a ceramic backsplash, and xenon undercabinet lights (none of which in combination produce any glare in our kitchen), we still hardly ever use the under cabinet lighting. I just don't remember to turn it on when I'm working because the rest of the kitchen is well lit enough that I don't really need it. I tend to use it when we have company, making the whole kitchen look extra bright and cheerful. But I thought I would use it more than I do. Our old kitchen had horrible fluorescent tube under cabinet lighting that I never, ever turned on because it was so harsh and ugly. And I didn't miss it there either. When well-planned and installed, under cabinet lighting is a nice bonus--like an extra piece of jewelry in the kitchen--but not IMO a necessity if the rest of the lighting scheme is well designed.

Thanks for all of these comments. @feeny, that is interesting you say that - at my last kitchen I felt like we really needed the undercabinet lights, and we used them, but I did not care for the fluorescent bars we installed. Perhaps b/c we had darker materials, the lighting was needed there, but in our current kitchen with the lighter reflective materials perhaps we should have went with LED tape light - not as bright but probably less of a glare problem. Lighting is so hard to design -- I did not predict this issue at all despite spending hours researching which lights to select. Anyone know of any dimmers that can be installed separate from the wall box (we already have our undercabinets hooked up to a 3 rocker switch...)

I went with the LED tape under my cabinets. Nice.

Led lighting has made enormous strides in just the past 18 months alone. The lights you bought are "old technology", alas.
Today there are different power levels as well as light temperature levels. I was aware of this "airport landing strip" effect when I had discussions with the lighting designer.

Most people now prefer matte, leather, tumbled- softer finishes.

Things are better now- check online( but mount whatever you do in front) .

It's not that you have to wear night vision goggles or spray paint your counters!

Calmsea is so correct! Here is a colour temperature chart rating different light sources rated on the Kelvin Scale. LED sources come in all temperature these days AND you may select a LED tape strip, shown below, with red, green and blue diodes. Then mix the colours with your smartphone :)

Oh, and Calmsea thanks for your appreciation of a lighting designer... YEA!

@calmsea, the "airport landing strip" effect is a good description. It is very dizzying. I tried to see if I could get used to it, but instead I got a massive headache. I suppose I could return my LED bars at Home Depot and do LED light tape instead. I am doing LED light tape on the top of the cabinets for some accent lighting. Except I think the GC threw away all the boxes in an effort to clean up. Damn it. And my husband/ electrician may shoot me for wanting to change something. I will just pray that mounting these bars to the front gets rid of the airport landing strip. I suppose I could wear sunglasses while chopping vegetables at the counter!

I have LED bars and LED light strips and find that individual diode lighting very annoying. I wish I had done more research and known that the LED would create this "landing strip" effect. My architect has suggested maybe finding some kind of lens or filter, but I am not optimistic that either would "diffuse" the situation. I think this is just part of the LED beast.

While the multi-colored tape is fun, and it provides a better spectrum of light, it will only provide multi-colored glare in this case. If you try a diffusers, don't just try a piece of frosted plastic. A diffuser for this will also need light refractory properties. ie textured surfaces. It may not eliminate the glare, but it will spread it out to a more comfortable quality. Darker or opaque the diffuser is will further make a difference. With today's lighting, it is not one thing that is the answer, but an entire system including the proper lumens and dimmer, light angle, and proper overhead lighting. If you judge the holes left at the back of the cabinet to be too much, and prefer to keep them covered, try making it an indirect light source.

By 3 rocker switch, do you mean a 3-way switch that you can turn the lights on from two locations?
Is this the light you have?
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Juno-Pro-Series-30-in-LED-White-UnderCabinet-Lighting-with-Dimming-Capability-UPLED30-WH/203228148

Wow. Lighting is so complex. So you get the individual diode look with the LED tape lights too? My LED tape lights have yet to be installed on top of the cabinets, so I don't know how those will look yet. I can't imagine there will be glare issues up there, I'm hoping it's just a nice soft glow. Sigh. Perhaps fluorescent are the lesser of two evils for undercabinet lighting? How are we all supposed to become environmentally friendly with all these new LED lights being pushed on us with all of these issues? (Off the topic, but I bought a Christmas LED lighted wreath a few weeks ago and had to return it. Lights were horribly blueish and gross. LEDs are not my friend lately!)

Re, being able to see individual diodes. Not so much in the physically annoying headache way, but shining on a glossy surface, they can still be annoying aestheticly for sure.
For the above cabinets lights, you will want to turn them on up there and figure out what angle looks the best to you. As indirect lighting on a less shiny surface, it is not a bad look, but placement and angle can change the desired effect.

Lighting is not completed... it goes in a straight line like a string. It's the light source colour temperature, lumen level (quantity) and the reflection factors. Oh and then the dimmers and lighting controls too.

Fred makes a GREAT point to test the LED strip on top of your cabinets before installing them. When you test and install the ribbon strips on top of your cabinets consider a flat panel to reflect the light up to the ceiling. If the ribbon sags or is not an equal distance from the wall (reflector) the illumination will be uneven. Testing must be performed in darkness for realistic results.

Thanks for your questions!

ClearLED.biz

@Fred:: Just want to share an image of switching several years before lighting control systems became the standard in custom homes. Yup, things change!

I'm sorry to hear about your lighting issues. Some LED light bar manufactures offer a frosted lens, but any under-cabinet light source will reflect on a polished surface. LED strips create a reflected pattern we are not used to seeing. Best solution is to move them forward to lessen the glare from the backsplash and experiment with ways to frost the existing lens material.

You can add a dimmer and that will fix your problem ;-)

Our electrician when he was here retro-fitting our can lights in the kitchen with LEDs that he does NOT install any type of LEDs without dimmers. And that is exactly what he did for us. Have your EC do that at the same time he installs the lights at the front of the cabinets like he was instructed in the first place.

Another FYI, I use that magnetic window film to dim some of the annoying lights around my house. Works like a charm.

You will need a dimmable LED driver if you want to dim the LED light bars. Not all LED drivers are dimmable.

Having just upgraded kitchen lighting I made sure the LEDs were dimmable.

@Fred S, thank you for suggestion to look at the light on top of the cabinets before the EC installs the LED tape light. I am going to meet up with my EC this weekend, and make sure I see it before he sticks it on. His idea was to stick it to the back of the crown molding so it points backward, but maybe it would be best for the light diodes to point towards the ceiling.

The GC told me that it would be very easy to move the undercabinet lights up to the front, as there is plenty of slack in the wires. The LEDs lights I bought have dimmable LED drivers; my problem is we have this hooked up to a 3 rocker switch. I'm trying to find out if there is another dimmer we can hook up that is not in the wall box. I don't care if it is under the cabinet or in a cabinet -wherever. Sticking in some type of film also seems like a very plausible option - removing the diffuser plate on the light bars and accessing those powerful little annoying diodes is super easy.

Phew, our LED's have yet to be installed over the counter. We did buy dimmer switch for them. I'm a little nervous now how the outcome will be. Wondering if we should go ahead installing them now. Ours aren't strips they are can (pot lights). How far apart should can lights be? I think we might of been advised wrong.

First I would ask you to take your camera on your phone and look at the lights,
Do they flicker? You will see a flicker from the light, if they do. That is a major problem, need to change the driver.
2nd, I can supply you some glare free lens to go over them or maybe even replace the lens, if you send me the model number of the light and pictures of them, I can check on the lenses.
A lot of problems with the major brands is, they look at one thing. Is it except-able to the customer. LightingOEM.com is not that type of company, we focus on the correct products, with the highest quality we can offer.
Even though our Main office is in PA. We have also setup and office/manufacturing plant in GU Zhen town the Lighting capital of the world!
You can most always catch one of us on skype. My skype is: LightingOEM (James Scott)

Once again sorry for your problem and I would be most willing to help you fix it.

Sincerely,

James Scott
President
www.LightingOEM.com
Skype: LightingOEM
US: 800-LED-LIGHT ( 800-533-5444 )
US Local: 267-Flag-LED (267-352-4533)
US Local: 407-412-0337
CN Local: 13590447810 or 13322934601

We help our customers make money, save money, reduce their hassles and headaches.

Seems like some sanded plexiglass as a diffuser would work fine. Couple of cleats to hold them in front of the lights and you're good.

Visite :- http://www.houzz.com/pro/stonesource001/stone-source-inc-india

Are all under cabinet lights and recessed lighting now LED or is Halogen an option? We have granite with glass back splash and are planning on installing recessed lights and under cabinet lights. Just wondering about which type of lighting would make the granite have more sparkle?

Wish I'd seen this before installing LEDs under our new kitchen cabinets. I "OK'd" them before the shiny quartz countertop was installed. The airport landing strip effect is horrible and our backsplash is still just painted (will tile eventually). We have them on a dimmer and it doesn't help - just gives less light which defeats the purpose. Our electrician installed them at the back since we didn't think to give instructions (and I guess our GC typically does it like that), and I'm deciding if we should move them forward or just replace them with something else completely. At least if we move them forward they'll light the prep area. By the way I've had under cabinet fluorescent for 25 years and love them. They're on most of the time at night. Not sure why they're so unpopular, although I wouldn't put them elsewhere.

Are they these? Dimmable. http://www.prolighting.com/juup308pr.html

(I caught up on thread - hopefully you can add your dimmer!)

No idea if this is possible, but can you put lower wattage bulbs in them, or only put in every other bulb?

You said your kitchen is almost done. So, does that mean it is still empty?

Have you tried adding some kitchen appliances, toaster, etc. (your counter stuff) to the counter, to see if that helps. If you are like me you will have things on your counter, which will break up the glass backsplash, and perhaps cut down on the glare.

When you chop veggies and stuff, your cutting board and food will help with the glare, I think.

I've gotten some recent comments on this, and thought I would provide an update in case anyone searches for this topic. We've been using our kitchen for about 6 months. The glare has not been bothering me as it did at first when we installed. I put some diffuser film in the light fixtures which helped slightly. The rest of the glare, I have just trained my eyes not to focus on where it is bright on the counter. It is much better with appliances, and cutting boards etc. on the counter - I don't notice it as much. If I had to do it again, i would have put our undercabinet lights on a dimmer switch instead of on a 3-way rocker switch. I wish there had been more information about LED glare available before we did our kitchen. @Sarainitaly, yes it is the lights you you mention. I do really like the Juno LED lights - it is warm, clean, bright light - the fixtures feel high quality - and there's no flickering or delay as you have with the flourescents. I would say we turn it on every time we use the kitchen (it feels dark without them on). It is probably the most important set of lights in our kitchen. We are also really happy with our light-colored granite countertop, it is beautiful. The only thing I would have changed is putting them on dimmers, although we are happy with the way things are.

We are in midst of finalizing our kitchen Reno and the undermount lights were originally installed by GC. He said that he still installs floursecent and we were skeptical. We requested LED. He installed the led strips but the glare was crazy and looked horrible. We asked GC to take them down while we look for solution. What are people using is it led with dimmers? Someone said dimmers?

Maybe a solution if you have light rail on cabinets......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC53vP0Ytd0

Nonsense. You have picked the wrong wattage. There exist a myriad of options and you got sold the wrong one. LEDs are perfect in my kitchen.

If you are using wattage to determine which LEDs to buy then you are totally lost and have no idea what the OP is about. Lumens, color temperature, and the intensity and spacing of individual diodes has NO direct correlation to wattage. "Wattage" should not even be a word that is allowed in a conversation on the aesthetics of LED lighting.

WOW - From way back in 2013! Fred is correct... watts have no bearing on LED light sources. LED watts are used in electrical calculations to determine the driver (transformer) size. Use Lumens and colour to select LED sources! Gary@ClearLED.biz ... we don't sell products, just advice!

Have a similar issue with my lights, may try to spray a golden hue on the led lens covers to see if that can calm the white lights.

Late to party, but I have granite and used the flexible LED strips that self adhere under your cabinets. I stuck them to the backside of the cabinet lip (for lack of a better term), which is closest to edge of counter top. They face the backsplash and not directly down to the granite. Mine also have a dimmer switch. Super easy install, cost effective (do it yourself), and totally worth it.

Good luck!

In Australia. Just about to start kitchen renos. This morning committed to Hafele dimmable undercabinet LEDs (recommended by our cabinet maker). 2600mm length of cabinet, 400mm deep, 550mm between bench and cabinets. This is a 12V system. Part no. 833.00.080 (warm white) plus 15W driver plus dimmer switch. Each light is 3W, contains 6 LEDs. Angle of illumination of each light is 110 degrees. At that height, a single light on the bench would provide around 300 lux. Recommended uniform bench lux is 500, so with maybe 5 lights spaced out, the overlap should provide ample. 3-stage dimmer will be handy. Total cost around AuD250-300 depending on final configuration. White ceramic tiled splashback and Laminex benchtop. Hopefully, the diffused light will be fine, replacing a legacy fluoro tube. Intend to place LEDs close to back wall.

I will be using polished porcelain tile on my countertop (24" and half the price of granite with far few grout lines, this being the biggest benefit) and while dry fitting I noticed the glaring, very clear, mirror-like reflection of the little battery operated puck lights we currently have. I'm about to order some strip led lights from Inspired LED with a dimmer and just found a couple things to cheaply diffuse the light. I think the suggestions were for film lighting but they can work under a counter unseen. The first was wax paper. The second was a shower curtain - cut to size. Of course my concern is the appearance and application of these inexpensive materials. I know I'm placing them as close to the front of the cabinet as possible, though I've tossed around a couple other ideas to reduce or eliminate the reflection. I have wondered if installing a corner-shaped piece of wood in the front or back lip to direct the light at a 45 degree angle either away from the backsplash or toward the backsplash would be helpful in reducing the reflection of the light. Another option is making them into uplights since they're so thin, it might be possible to do that and still keep them concealed, but I haven't come up with how to do that. I need UCL because our lighting is poor and the kitchen is small-ish. I just don't want to replace batteries or turn on and off each light individually. That was annoying the second day I had them. :-(

maybe you should buy LED that have a lower kelvin ...about 3000 kelvins... less blue and less glare