Less is often much, much more. The word "uncluttered" comes to mind for this grassy nook. One Ali Baba–scale urn plus one simple, striped awning chair, and all of a sudden the space has a point of view. The urn feels permanent, anchoring the base of a tree trunk. The chair is less so, but that's part of its charm. Plunked down here for a moment, the chair turns a lush, tropical setting into a room — something to be visited and occupied, rather than just observed. (Imagine an outdoor dining table plus six chairs instead and you'll see what I mean. They would dominate the space, making it impossible to view the plantings). I like to imagine having this space all to myself, thank you very much!
Colorful. Use a garden shed with a coat of bright paint on the sides, door, window box or trim to cheer up a plain corner of the backyard or tie in with colorful garden beds. Warm hues like red, terra cotta, orange and tawny gold look particularly inviting in colder climates or those with frequent rain and overcast skies. Vibrant blues, violets and lime green also work well as accent colors, and they can complement garden beds of almost any color.
Chic. To give a basic shed an upscale makeover, use building materials and architectural details that would normally be reserved for the main home. For example, this structure in a Baltimore backyard looks more like an elegant cottage than a tool shed. The architects used crisp, white board-and-batten siding, a standing-seam metal roof, a decorative cupola and windowed carriage doors to give this shed some real stature in the backyard.
Country. Classic barn-red siding, white trim and sage-green carriage doors turn this shed into an attractive focal point in a country-style landscape. To further a rural theme in a contemporary way, plant the area surrounding the shed with swaths of native grasses and wildflowers for the look of a natural meadow.
English cottage. Sweet as can be, this robin’s-egg blue shed sits perched on a small rise and is surrounded by flowering perennial beds. Give an existing shed the English cottage garden treatment by repainting it gray-green, blue or teal, adding details such as shutters or a scalloped trim, and planting a flowering vine, such as climbing roses, clematis and honeysuckle, to ramble up the side.
Line up garden views with windows. Start inside the house. Take note of which rooms you spend the most time in, and pay attention to how the garden looks from those vantage points. Does a window in the living room look out onto the front yard? Place a focal point centered on where your eye falls looking out the window and keep the area between the window and the focal point a clear view. A focal point can be anything from a shapely shrub, specimen tree or potted container to a garden element like a bench or urn set into a bed.
Showy specimen plants. To use a tree or a small shrub as a focal point, choose one with outstanding characteristics — such as spring flowers, interesting branch structure or brilliant fall leaves — and plant it with a bit of room to breathe. For example, put a specimen tree in the center of a patio or within a garden bed surrounded by lower-growing plants.
Cottage garden shed. It’s easy and cost-effective to turn existing structures into intentional focal points. If you already have a garden shed, consider updating it with a fresh coat of paint and a few potted containers on both sides of the door. For new sheds, think about their placement. Instead of hiding the structure in the back corner of the garden, make it the focal point of the side garden to bring attention to a less-used area.
Japanese Maple in the side yard Add a focal point. What would otherwise be a nondescript side yard becomes an inviting destination with the addition of a large Italian-style urn filled with branches, a trio of terra-cotta pots mounted to the garden gate and lushly planted borders. Offering multiple attractive areas for the eye to rest makes a space feel larger. When the plants die down in winter, the large terra-cotta pot will still provide a focal point and visually anchor the area.
Mix it up. On the other end of the pruning, shaping and symmetrical spectrum is a wilder-looking garden, with flowing perennials flanked by woody shrubs. Woody plants are an important element of the perennial and meadow garden because they provide structure and interest year-round. Additionally, there are many understory and woodland shrubs that can grow with a spreading form to create a naturalistic planting design.
You may choose to rely on color, form or texture — or a balance of all three elements — to create more contrast in your garden. However you go about it, keep in mind that there’s no wrong way to plant. Creating a garden that inspires and delights you is just as much about the process as the end result.
Contrasting leaf shapes and textures is another good way to add interest to beds with subtler variation in color. In the foreground of a primarily green shade garden, the broad leaves of hostas and glossy bear’s breech (Acanthus mollis) stand out against the slender leaves of Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra cv.). The purple leaves of coral bells (Heuchera sp.) deepen the color of the shadows.
All-Green With Varying Texture and Form With all plants in the same shade of emerald green, this narrow side yard could potentially be monotonous. But mixing up the plant form and texture creates a stylish and visually engaging design. Succulent glossy rosettes of aeonium (Aeonium sp.) contrast with plumelike foxtail ferns (Asparagus densiflorus ‘Myers’) and the thin needles of fern pine (Podocarpus gracilior) hedging.
While the presence of either dark or light foliage breaks up the monotony of beds composed of all medium green, get the most drama by including both lights and darks in a single bed. Here, a golden smoke bush (Cotinus coggygria cv.) nearly glows behind a low stone wall, complemented by its deep purple cousin. A Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) balances the plum-colored foliage to the left of the patio. In the foreground, variegated ‘Silver Swan’ euphorbia (Euphorbia characias ‘Silver Swan’) forms a mound of silvery foliage among flower spikes of purple salvia.
Deep Purple Foliage With Bright Silver Punctuations Black, purple and deep burgundy leaves act as dark, moody foils for pale green, silver and golden leaves. For purple and burgundy, turn to smoke bush (Cotinus spp.), purple-leaved plums, black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’) and wine-colored ‘Plum Pudding’ coral bells (Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding’). For silver and chartreuse foliage, golden creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’), lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina) and ‘Silver Falls’ dichondra (Dichondra argentea ‘Silver Falls’) are good options.
Along this dry streambed, bold-leaved hostas contrast with delicate conifer needles, ruffled purple coral bells (Heuchera sp.) and fine-textured bright green ‘Angelina’ stonecrop (Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’). As the plants fill in and grow to maturity, the contrast among the coarse and fine textures will become more dramatic.
The slender blades of golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra cv.) and lacy Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) leaves contrast with broad-leaved hostas in the back bed and medium-leaved ‘HGC Pink Frost’ hellebores (Helleborus x ballardiae ‘HGC Pink Frost’) in the foreground.
Here are a handful of gardens that display contrast, each highlighting a design plan for breaking up foliage monotony. Bold Forms With Fine Textures It works every time. Choose plants with bold, broad leaves — paperplant (Fatsia japonica), agaves, cardoons or phormiums — and pair them with light, wispy plants — sagebrush (Artemisia spp.), muhly grass (Muhlenbergia spp.) and ferns. The greater the contrast, the more the dramatic the display. Here, bold octopus agave (Agave vilmoriniana) and fine-leaved ground covers create an eye-catching, drought-tolerant garden.
Texture. Just as important as color and form, the texture of a plant is determined by how it would feel to touch (or looks as though it would feel). Pairing plants with different textures in the planting bed makes each plant’s natural characteristics stand out. Some leaves, like those of camellia, are glossy and smooth, reflecting light almost as if they were lacquered. Others, such as lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina), shown here, are covered in tiny protrusions, making them as soft and inviting as velvet. Cactuses offer no such temptation with their spikes and prickles.
Form. Consider both the shape of the plant and the size and shape of its leaves. Beds made up of similarly sized plants with the same leaf shape can be fairly dull. For the most drama, mix plants with big, bold leaves with smaller-leaved perennials and ornamental grasses. In shade, look for plants with large palmate leaves, such as bear’s breech (Acanthus mollis), shown in this Seattle area garden with strappy, grasslike sweetflag (Acorus sp.).
Color. When selecting foliage color, you practically have a rainbow of hues to choose from. For the most striking combinations in the bed, pair plants with contrasting foliage colors in close proximity. Blues and blue-greens have a cooling effect and can set off red, plum and magenta foliage placed close by. Silver, chartreuse and variegated foliage shimmer next to darker greens — particularly useful in brightening shady areas.
Deepen hot-colored flower beds. Fiery late-summer and fall flower beds or containers can tend toward garish without the balance of cooling swaths of dark foliage. Here, a container of ‘Blackie’ sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas ‘Blackie’, zones 9 to 11) complements the golden yellow blooms of lantana. In the back of the bed, we have another hit of dark foliage with the maroon leaves of coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides, zones 10 to 11).
Bring contrast to garden beds. Use dark-leaved plants as a rich counterpoint to bright green and pale silver foliage placed nearby. Here, bronze New Zealand flax (Phormium sp., zones 8 to 10) and purple-leaved plums contrast with billowing, light green maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis, zones 5 to 9) and silvery coast rosemary (Westringia fruticosa, zones 9 to 10).
Enhance shadows in the landscape. Dark foliage planted at the edges of a landscape makes the backdrop recede into shadow. Fences, walls and unwanted views seem to disappear. In this San Francisco garden, the purple, shadowy foliage colors at the landscape edges screen adjacent buildings and blur the garden’s boundaries.
Showcase dark foliage as living art. Many dark-leaved plants have an unusual beauty. Examples include the nearly translucent burgundy leaves of ‘Royal Purple’ smoke bush (Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’, zones 4 to 8) and the delicate plum foliage of Japanese maple (Acer palmatum cvs., zones 5 to 8), like the one shown here. Display their rich colors and interesting leaf forms against the backdrop of rusted metal walls, pale fences or spilling over large boulders.
Add garden depth. Dark foliage visually falls to the back of a garden bed or series of containers, while brighter greens and white flowers spring forward. Use this to your advantage in a small garden or urban roof terrace. Here, containers spilling over with a mix of foliage are interesting in their own right, but the addition of purple coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides, USDA zones 10 to 11; find your zone) adds depth to the New York City garden and makes the walled-in space feel less flat.
Add richness to containers. The addition of the pale bronze leaves of coral bells (Heuchera spp., zones 4 to 9) transitions a container vignette from summer to fall. Coral bells cultivars and hybrids come in a wide variety of leaf colors, with many in the bronze-to-purple range to choose from. H. villosa ‘Bronze Wave’ has two-tone leaves, with greenish bronze above and dark chocolate below. ‘Cajun Fire’ has a rich all-over cinnamon color, and ‘Southern Comfort’ has a pale bronze-peach color.
Double up on bronze. Given the range of bronze leaf tones, there are plenty of choices for pairing two bronze hues together in a single bed. For a subtle, nuanced look such as the one here, choose a medium bronze like the strappy ‘Bronze Baby’ New Zealand flax (Phormium ‘Bronze Baby’, zones 8 to 11 ) and pair it with a deeper bronze plant with a very different texture like the more broad-leaved ‘Royal Purple’ smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’, zones 4 to 8). For more drama, plant a bright orange bronze next to a plant with deep purple-bronze foliage.
Use light bronze as a highlight. Plants with pale bronze, copper and gold leaves can contribute brightness to garden beds. Here, the delicate pointed leaves of northern bush honeysuckle (Diervilla lonicera, zones 3 to 8) change from green to light bronze-gold in fall. Plant close to deep purple or evergreen conifers to really show off the luminous quality of the leaves.
Pair deep purple-bronze with pastel blooms. In this garden in northwest France, the designer used a trio of deep purple-bronze ‘Tom Thumb’ kōhūhū shrubs (Pittosporum tenuifolium ‘Tom Thumb’, zones 9 to 10) to bring depth to planting beds billowing with pale flowers and ornamental grasses. Adding the contrast of the deeper foliage makes the pastel purple geraniums and light pink oleander blossoms appear to almost float in the landscape.
Add variety to all-green borders. Break up expanses of green foliage with bursts of bronze to give more interest to garden borders. In this Southern California garden, the designer planted trios of dark-leaved spurge (Euphorbia ‘Blackbird’, zones 6 to 10) to add contrast to a border planting of green and silver shrubs. In spring and summer, the spurge looks more bronze than purple due to showy copper-colored structures (called fused bracts) around each inconspicuous bloom.
Contrast with blue-green. Directly opposite each other on the color wheel, blue-green and the more copper tones of bronze are perfect complements. Here, New Zealand iris (Libertia peregrinans, zones 8 to 11) is combined with blue fescue (Festuca glauca, zones 4 to 8) and Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas, zones 5 to 9) for a beautiful and drought-tolerant front yard planting.
Raising the crown. Raising the crown, or canopy, of a tree by removing or shortening the lower branches can create valuable room under a tree while retaining a tree’s benefits. Crown raising does minimal damage to a tree, as long as the removed limbs are not too large and only a few branches are removed at a time and from each spot. Shown: Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia sp)
'Silver Heart' Largeleaf Brunnera (Brunnera macrophylla 'Silver Heart') Where it will grow: Hardy to -30 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 4 to 8) Water requirement: Average to low; drought tolerant once established Light requirement: The growers recommend shade or partial shade, but my plant grew well in full sun (Seattle-type full sun) from sunrise until 3 p.m. each day. Mature size: 1 foot tall and 2 feet wide Benefits and tolerances: Deer resistant; low maintenance Seasonal interest: Spring to fall When to plant: Spring or fall Distinguishing traits: More resistant to sun scorch than other varieties Blue flowers in spring Stands up to heat and humidity Planting notes: It’s perfect for woodland gardens and shade containers. Plant it in rich, fertile soil that drains well.
‘Silver Heart’ Largeleaf Brunnera (Brunnera macrophylla ‘Silver Heart’) I have always loved this shade-loving perennial for its forget-me-not-type flowers, which dance above the emerging leaves in spring. When the new foliage colors were introduced, I fell in love with this plant all over again. Largeleaf brunnera is one of the first perennials to leaf out in spring and one of the last to become dormant in fall. The large, heart-shaped leaves quickly form a large mound, rivaling hostas for creating bold impact. At first glance Silver Heart appears very similar to Jack Frost, which has been around for some time, but the discerning gardener will appreciate that this one has much more silver in its variegation. In my trials last year, I also found it to be far more sun tolerant than Jack Frost and extremely drought tolerant (I forgot to water it for several months), making this is a tough perennial for tough places.
Glow Girl Birchleaf Spirea (Spirea "Tor Gold") Distinguishing traits: Beautiful foliage that changes color from spring to fall White flowers in spring Does not burn in full sun Very cold hardy Planting notes. Although pruning is not necessary, it may be trimmed for size and shape immediately after blooming.
Glow Girl Birchleaf Spirea (Spiraea ‘Tor Gold’) I have become increasingly enamored of spirea as new foliage colors have been introduced and a greater range of sizes have become available, and Glow Girl offers everything I could wish for. The emerging leaves are tinged with copper before opening fully to a bold lime green. As the summer progresses, this becomes a soft gold, which transitions in fall to rich rose. The white flowers in spring are a bonus. Where it will grow: Hardy to -40 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 3 to 9) Water requirement: Average to low but very adaptable Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade Mature size: 3 to 4 feet tall and wide Benefits and tolerances: A favorite with hummingbirds and butterflies but generally ignored by deer, although they may nibble the flowers; I actually don’t mind this too much, as the shrub continues to produce coppery new foliage. Seasonal interest: Spring to fall When to plant: Spring or fall
Sunjoy Tangelo Barberry (Berberis thunbergii 'Sunjoy Tangelo') Distinguishing traits: Rich orange foliage with a distinct chartreuse margin Fiery fall color Disease resistant Planting notes: It has a loose mounding shape, so grow it in the middle or toward the back of a border. Combine it with other foliage and flowers in shades of lime and purple for an eye-catching display. Plant it in well-drained soil. Prune it for size in early spring if desired.
Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Anna’s Magic Ball’) Who can resist this little ball of golden fluff? This dwarf beauty will add sparkle in a semishady spot yet resist burn in sunnier areas. Conifers can be relied upon for providing winter interest, and this one is no exception. Where it will grow: Hardy to -40 degrees Fahrenheit (zones 3 to 7) Water requirement: Average Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade Mature size: 10 to 15 inches tall and wide Benefits and tolerances: Low maintenance Seasonal interest: Year-round When to plant: Spring or fall Distinguishing traits: Evergreen Resists sun scald Compact mound Planting notes: Plant it in deep, well-drained soil. Use it in a rock garden or at the front of a border. It’s great in a container.
‘Higasayama’ is a bright green beauty. This very hardy cultivar grows to a height of 20 to 25 feet. ‘Higasayama’ can handle full sun but maintains its best color in filtered shade. This tree is best allowed to shine on its own. A large underplanting of a dark green fern, such as Japanese beech fern (Phegopteris decursive-pinnata, zones 4 to 10), would be appropriate.
‘Mikazuki’ is a relatively new cultivar; its name means “crescent moon.” The bronzy pink leaf tones, combined with bright green veining, make this tree a standout. Mikazuki grows to a height of 8 to 10 feet.
Brunches and lunches in the garden can soar to new heights by defining the space with randomly placed pavers. It breaks up the otherwise green ground and adds a bit more solid surface for chair and table legs. Keeping grass or thyme between each paver is key; it creates an "always been there" look.
Patio idea with pavers
Rounded and mounded forms appear and repeat themselves throughout this dreamy meadow — a rhythmic planting scheme that is alluring and unforgettable. Santolina in shades of silver and green covers the ground, while purple alliums repeat that globe shape on taller stems. The distant wands of dark purple lavender echo the alliums, adding depth.
Elizabeth and Eddie rarely bought the usual gifts for each other. Instead they collected poems and scriptures that were meaningful to them, writing them on index cards and filing them away in a box in the kitchen. For special occasions, each would secretly open the box, find a suitable verse and have a plaque made for the garden. There are dozens of them embedded in the garden hardscape.
Example of a little saturated color in a pastel color palette keeping the garden from looking washed out.
Cheerful and inviting gardening color palette
Love, love, love this color palette!!!
Love the color of the door and window!
Great texture
Love the texture and color of this
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