2. Use the bulb to measure how deep the hammock should be, then secure it by folding the edges over the mouth of the jar and tying a length of garden twine around the mesh. 3. Fill with water to one-quarter of an inch from the bulb bottom. The roots will quickly find and reach the water. Forced-Bulb Care Once the bulbs are planted, set them in a room where there is ample indirect light and a temperature of around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Add clean water as needed. Weeks to Bloom Hyacinth, crocus and Muscari species (grape hyacinth), pictured below, take two to three weeks to bloom. Paperwhites take three to five weeks to bloom; amaryllis bulbs vary by species.
Forcing Bulbs in Water Materials Wide, pint-sized Mason jar with a regular-sized mouth Plastic mesh Garden twine Prechilled hyacinth bulbs (Hyacinth ‘L’Innocence’ shown) 1. To force bulbs in water, create a hammock out of plastic mesh to allow the bulb to sit above the water line. Shown in the photos here is the packaging from the decorative stones I used in the pebble-forcing method, but you could also use purchased mesh or the packaging often used with onions and avocados.
Unlike plant pots, Mason jars don’t have drainage holes. They do have front-row viewing to the root system, though, so monitoring watering is quite simple. Water to moisten the soil but not so much that there is standing water at the bottom of the jar. If you add too much water, you can always pour it back out. 3. After blooming, keep the greens watered until the soil warms up enough to plant them in the spring garden. They are not likely to bloom again during the current season, but if they naturalize you will get to enjoy them in many a spring to come.
SaveEmail 1. Planting bulbs in soil is the most obvious choice and makes for a stable base for tall flowers like paperwhites. Start with a clean Mason jar and line the bottom with an inch of half-inch-diameter stones. Top the stones with a few inches of soil and set a bulb in so that the neck is above the soil line. Pack soil around the bulb and press firmly in place. 2. Keep an eye on the roots: They should be white and long, winding through the soil in the jar. Being able to see below the surface adds to the charm of the container, and it makes a great learning project for kids.
Bulb forcing has been a gardener’s pastime since the 1800s. If you are an antiques hunter, you may have seen hyacinth glasses or forcing vases: pinched-neck glass vases with wide bottoms. Perhaps you have seen more current displays of fragrant paperwhites set in soil at a florist shop. The hobby’s longevity is understandable when you come to appreciate that spring’s fragrant blooms can be grown right on your windowsill, in the fall!
Give macramé a chance. Popular in the 1970s and experiencing something of a revival, macramé has a new, brightly colored look and a modern boho vibe. Try hanging just one plant or suspend a cluster for a lush, jungle-like feel. Ferns and other plants with a tendency to drape do especially well in hanging planters.
Growing tip: Keep houseplants in clusters. If you’ve had trouble keeping houseplants alive and healthy in the past, you might want to try keeping them in a group this time around. Not only will it be easier to remember to water them when they are conveniently located in one spot, but a group of plants also creates its own microclimate, which boosts humidity and helps prevent water loss.
Houseplants bring the kitchen to life. The kitchen makes a wonderful home for plants, from delicate vines twining down a shelf to a pot of culinary herbs ready to snip while cooking. Especially in an apartment where you cannot change the wall color or appliances, bringing in fresh plants is an easy and budget-friendly way to personalize your space.
Choose the right pot. Of course, a plant is nothing without the pot, so it is important to get it right. Some pots can be very heavy even before you fill them with soil and plants. By sliding plants in their plastic pots into feature pots, you will reduce the risk of overwatering and make maintenance, like repotting, much easier. Having a pot within a pot also allows you to have a tray underneath to catch excess water before it spills onto the carpet and stops your plants from getting wet feet. Self-watering pots are also great, as they give an even, consistent water supply to the plant.
Give them some R&R. Indoor plants benefit from a spell outside once in a while. For small to medium-size pots, it is a good idea to have a rotation system. By leaving plants in black plastic pots (the type they come from the nursery in), you can slot them into your more decorative pots and change them as often as you like. Make sure the outdoor location is similar to the indoor one. If a plant is not used to direct sunlight, its leaves will burn and, in some cases, the plant will die.
Feed them. All plants benefit from a little extra fertilizer, but for potted plants it is even more important. Always choose the best potting mix you can find, one that contains a slow-release fertilizer and water crystals. If you are potting a specific species, like orchids, cacti or citrus, or in a terra-cotta pot, get a mix specifically designed for these plants and conditions. However, even the best potting mixes go stale over time, so you should repot your plants every year or two. Most slow-release fertilizers last six to nine months, so if the mix you chose has one included, remember to top it up once it has worn out. You could also add a liquid fertilizer to your watering can once or twice a month.
Keep them clean. Plants rely on their leaves to make their food via photosynthesis. The surface of their leaves is covered with tiny little vents that open and close during the day and can become clogged with dust. Outside, the leaves get washed clean with rain; indoors, a gentle wiping with a clean, damp cloth once a month will keep the leaves looking shiny and healthy.
Give them room to grow. If you do have the room for a large feature plant, like this gorgeous ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), then you need to have a regular maintenance plan. Large plants are an investment and need good care. Make sure the pot you choose allows room for the plant to grow over the years. This ponytail palm is a slow-growing species that requires little water.
Think small. While a large, striking feature pot looks outstanding in a home, don’t discount smaller pots. Smaller containers can be easily swapped out, given a spell outside or moved around the home. A collection of succulents like this is a low-maintenance but high-impact way to use plants inside.
Position them well. It’s true: Where you live makes a difference to your health. And for a plant, nothing is more true. When placing plants in your home, make sure the location has good ventilation and natural light. And keep them out of direct sunlight. This will give them a more even growing environment, which will reduce stress on the plant and water loss.
Be water wise. If anything were likely to be killed with kindness, it would be an indoor plant. Knowing how much and how often to water is the key to not only keeping plants alive but helping them thrive. A great indicator that a plant needs watering is when its leaves start to droop. Oddly, this is also an indication that a plant has been overwatered. Once a plant has root rot from overwatering, it can be very difficult for it to recover. For most plants, the soil should be kept moist but not saturated — use your finger as a guide; if it feels dry an inch or so down, give it a drink. Where and how your plants grow in the wild are great indicators of how much water they need. The pots shown here are good examples, as the dry-, hot-climate plants on the left are grouped together and need much less water than the rain forest tree fern on the right.
Prechilling Bulbs To force most bulbs indoors, they need to be prechilled, with the exceptions of amaryllis and paperwhite bulbs. The best bet is to buy prechilled bulbs at the garden center. One way to chill bulbs is in the fridge inside a paper bag. Just be sure to keep the bag in a crisper drawer away from any other food. The idea is to trick the bulbs into starting their spring growth by faking winter. Note that each type of bulb will have a different number of weeks required for chilling. Hyacinth bulbs need one to 12 weeks of chilling. Crocus and Muscari species (grape hyacinth) need 14 to 15 weeks.
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