This request came from a client who lives in the Newcastle district of Jesmond who was unhappy with the appearance of their Textured Porcelain floor tiles. The problem was that the Porcelain Tiles were grouted in whilst the underfloor heating was switched on. This resulted in the grout drying out quicker than expected and the tiler struggled to get the excess grout off the tiles. To rectify the problem, the tiler tried to get the dried grout off with acid, but it didn’t work, and the floor was left looking dark and dull. Unable to rectify the problem the client was left with a disappointing pale floor and had searched around the internet for a solution. Normally grout smears like these (aka Grout Haze) can be removed with an acidic product and Tile Doctor sell Grout Clean-up specially for this purpose. However, some grouts contain acid resistant polymers which need to broken down first. Fortunately, we have a solution for everything tile related and the system we use does not affect the main grout lines only the excess grout. I called in to do a site visit and having surveyed the problem I was confident it could resolved, I gave them a price for the work and agreed a date to return to do the job. My first task was to spray the tiles with Tile Doctor Remove and Go, this was left to soak into the tile for around ten minutes before being scrubbed in. Remove and Go is a coatings remover that is safe to use on tile and grout; normally we use it to remove old sealers but in this case I applied it to break down the polymers. To work the product into the tile I use a buffing machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad, the mechanical advantage this gives makes the job a lot quicker. Then the slurry generated is rinsed off with water and removed with a wet vacuum. The floor was then left to dry for 30 minutes. We were then able to remove the excess grout which was done by applying Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up which I mentioned earlier. The process was the same, i.e. using the buffing machine and a wet vacuum to scrub the floor and extract the soil. The floor was rinsed with water to remove any trace of the products used and dried as much as possible using the wet vacuum. The underfloor heating really helped at this point to dry out the floor. Once the floor was fully dry including the grout lines a single thin coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow sealer was applied. The tiles were textured porcelain, so the dirt gets trapped into the textured surface if it is not sealed. We usually find one coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow is more than enough for this, anything that hadn’t soaked in after three to five minutes was then polished off with clean dry cloths. The client was very happy with the floor and pleased that the excess grout had been cleaned up and the floor looked as it should. Before leaving I recommended the use a pH Neutral tile cleaner for general cleaning such as Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner. There is no point sealing the tiles only to have it stripped off later with the use of a bleach based cleaner. Raf Barrett Tyneside Tile Doctor

We had been to maintain this Sandstone floor about two years previously at a property in the pretty area of Windermere in the English Lake District. The client had run out of our Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner that we left after completing the job and had started using a standard cleaner instead (a well-known ecological cleaner). Unfortunately, this product has a 5% non-ionic surfactant in its chemical structure, which will strip a coat of stone sealer off the surface within 6 months, once that topcoat has been removed the sealed surface is only 50% as strong as it should be. Readers of this article should be aware that even washing up liquid which is a degreaser will strip sealers although it will take many months of regular use before you will start to notice an issue. Stronger bleach-based cleaning products such as Flash and Domestos will cause instant damage to stone sealer which will often go an off-white colour as a result. So, the importance of using the right cleaner is imperative. Having used our services on this floor previously he client knew what to expect and was happy to go ahead with our quote. My first task would be to clean the floor and completely remove what was left of the old sealer to ensure the floor would have a consistent appearance. On this occasion I used a strong 1:3 dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean worked into the floor with a Black buffing pad fitted to a rotary buffing machine. The Sandstone floor was then rinsed with water, scrubbed again and then the waste extracted using a wet vacuum. This was followed with acid rinse using a 1:5 dilution of Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up, this is a Phosphoric Acid (not a Brick Acid). After being scrubbed into the tile it was rinsed off the floor as before using water and the wet vacuum. This process further cleans the stone and neutralises the floor after the use of the strong alkaline Pro-Clean used earlier. Before leaving for the day I gave the floor one final rinse with water and then dried the floor as much as possible with the wet vacuum. The floor was now clean and free of sealer and left to fully dry off overnight. I came back the following morning and started by testing the floor with the moisture meter. I always do this as I know from experience how important it is to ensure the floor is dry before applying a sealer. Happy the Sandstone was dry I then proceed to apply the first of what would be four coats of sealer. For this I used Tile Doctor Seal and Go which leaves a nice low sheen finish. This product is specially formulated blend of acrylic polymers that provides will protect the floor from ingrained dirt and staining; it will make the floor easy to clean and has the added advantage of being water based so it doesn’t leave a solvent smell as it dries. The client was left another complimentary bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral cleaner and hopefully the seal will last a long longer the 2nd time around. The client was pleased the floor had been restored and vowed to use nothing but Tile Doctor products on it in the future. Heidi Taylor South Cumbria Tile Doctor

This client owned a property in Haringey, North London, which had a classic Victorian tiled floor laid in the hallway. Unfortunately, the floor was in a bad state, the tiles were dull and dirty and there was a missing section by the bottom of the stairs that had been back filled with cement. Fortunately for him however his neighbour decided to remove their front path which was made with matching tiles and so he was able acquire replacements from him. He then contacted us to see if we could use those tiles to fill in the missing ones and revive the whole floor with a clean and seal at the same time. Before quoting for the restoration work, I paid a visit to the property to survey the floor. I can give quotes from photographs, but much prefer to visit and conduct a test clean, and in this case, I was able to check the spare tiles he had acquired. From that I emailed a quote which the client was happy with, so we arranged a date to return and do the work. This was a large job, so I teamed up with Jackson Davis the Central London Tile Doctor and whilst Jackson started on cleaning the floor, I took the reclaimed tiles outside and carefully grinded off the excess cement and adhesive from them and cleaned them by hand. We managed to do this by about 3pm. Jackson and I work on a lot of jobs together so it made sense to work as a bubble from the beginning of Covid so we could continue to work together, with two of us on the job it also means we can get the job done quicker. Cleaning the floor involved applying a 200-grit diamond burnishing pad to the tile lubricated with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go, the slurry was then rinsed off the floor with more water and then extracted with an industrial vacuum. The process was repeated on stubborn areas until we were satisfied the tiles were really clean. We then moved onto carefully removing the cement from the floor at the bottom of the stairs and cleaning up the base. Once done the newly renovated replacement tiles were laid in place using a rapid setting adhesive which meant they could be grouted later that day before heading home. The floor was then left overnight to dry off. We then returned the following day and took some moisture readings with the damp meter. The readings were within the expected range, so we were good to go ahead and apply the sealer. If the floor is not dry the seal will not cure properly, and this can lead to a patchy finish. Three coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow were applied to seal the tiles. This is a colour intensifying impregnating sealer that works from with and will gives the Victorian tiles durable protection, ideal for a high traffic area such as the hallway. In addition, Colour Grow is a fully breathable sealer so it will allow for moisture to rise through the tile and evaporate, this is critical for floors of this age that will not have the benefit of a damp proof membrane installed under the floor. The hallway is now looking transformed by the work we did, we certainly thought so, but more importantly our client was very happy with the result and now has the floor he hoped for. Andrew Newstead North London Tile Doctor

It’s always a great surprise to find old tiled flooring hidden underneath carpet or linoleum which appears especially common with 19th century properties where it’s not unusual for the owners to uncover fantastically patterned, original Victorian tiled floors and, naturally, they want to restore them to their former glory. If you have a property of this type you might want to look under the carpets. The majority of the time, however, these tiles have been covered up for decades, allowing for thick layers of muck to build-up and are invariably damaged carpet grippers, surface glue and adhesive tape. This was pretty much the case with this customer who lives in the town of Warminster and was keen to have her own newly discovered Victorian hallway brought back to life, and called me down to see what could be done. Upon arrival at the property, I determined that the tiles would definitely require a very deep clean, including the remove of numerous glue stains, followed by the application of a new seal. Before I could begin the deep cleaning process, I needed to remove the carpet grippers and surface glue, attempting to remove as much as possible by hand using a scraper. For the particularly stubborn areas, I applied Tile Doctor Remove & Go, a powerful stripper specially designed to break down adhesives and solvents, and left it to dwell for 20 minutes to eat through the glue deposits. I then attached a black pad to a rotary machine and scrubbed the area thoroughly to clean the affected areas, before removing the resulting slurry using a wet vacuum and rinsed with clean water. Once I was satisfied that all of the glue had been removed, I proceeded to soak the floor using a solution of the high alkaline cleaner known as Tile Doctor Pro Clean. This is a versatile product that can be used on a wide range of natural stone floors to deal with heavy soil build-up. I left the Pro-Clean to dwell for ten minutes, and then scrubbed it into the tiles to remove the ingrained dirt and also to break down any old and ineffectual seals. The floor was then once again rinsed thoroughly with clean water which was then extracted using a wet vacuum before being left to dry for a couple of days. Upon our return to the property I immediately tested the floor for damp using a damp meter. This is an extremely important test to carry out before sealing any kind of tiled flooring, due to the fact that excess moisture left over from cleaning can cloud the sealer and damage its ability to protect against dirt and stains. Thankfully, the damp test revealed no excess moisture, and I was able to proceed with sealing the tiles. My choice of sealer was Tile Doctor Seal and Go, a water-based topical sealer that simultaneously provides both a stain resistant surface seal and a durable and aesthetically pleasing low sheen finish, also being water based it doesn’t give off a smell as it dries. This is a very cost effective product that is highly suitable for use on Victorian and Quarry tiles, I applied five costs to achieve the desired finish. The customer was very pleased with the final results. It’s always satisfying to restore original Victorian tiled floors to looking their best once again – and this one was no exception. Stuart Ford Wiltshire Tile Doctor

These pictures of a Victorian Tiled Hallway are from a property in Canterbury that was once a nursing home and was now being renovated to become a children’s home. The building was being gutted and extended at the same time and when the carpet was pulled up in the hallway, they were surprised to find a relatively intact Victorian tiled floor underneath. Whilst they thought it bizarre that anyone would want to cover up such an attractive floor the carpet had protected it over the years. They realized it would make a marvellous feature at the entrance to the property, but professional restoration would be needed to do it justice. After a bit of research, they came across Tile Doctor and got in touch. Canterbury comes under my North Kent designation, so I went to visit the property and survey the floor and quote for doing the restoration. There were a few missing and loose tiles that would need replacing and refixing also there was a lot of ingrained dirt so a deep clean and application of a new sealer would be required. I gave them a price for the work which they readily accepted, and we arranged a suitable time to carry out the work. Subject to the building schedule I had calculated the floor would take three days to restore. On the first day I set about replacing and re-fixing the missing, broken, and loose tiles. This is delicate work as you need to extract the old tile without disturbing its neighbours and then clean up the area ready for its replacement. Being a Tile Doctor I keep a selection of stock tiles for repairs, some are reclaimed, and some are replica. Also, there are several companies still making Victorian style tiles so I can usually source what I need. After the individual missing and broken tiles had been replaced and the adhesive had set, it was then a matter of renovating the floor as a whole. The tiles were covered in a thick layer of carpet adhesive which needed a combination of specialist tools and products to remove. First, a liberal layer of Tile Doctor Remove and Go was applied and left to dwell for thirty minutes. Next, Tile Doctor Pro-Clean was added and scrubbed in with a black pad. This process softened the adhesive sufficiently in readiness for the next stage which involves using a set of diamond burnishing pads on a weighted buffing machine. Several applications were needed, each time with a successively finer grade of diamond pad and rinsing off the slurry in between. The tiles were first milled using a very coarse 50-grit pad, followed by 100, 200 and finally burnished with a 400-grit burnishing pads. This removed all the adhesive and dirt in the tiles, which was cleaned up using the wet vacuum. Old Victorian floors like this do not have a damp proof membrane installed under the floor, and with a lot of water being used in the cleaning process I was concerned White efflorescence salts could appear later as the floor dried. To counter this, I gave the floor an acid wash using Tile Doctor Acid Gel to counter and dissolve the salts, it also gives the tiles another clean and will remove any old grout smears further improving the appearance of the tiles. Once done the floor was left to dry overnight. On my return I tested the floor was dry by taking several moisture readings around the floor with a damp meter. Applying sealer to a damp floor is never advised and can lead to clouding and an unwanted finish. Happy that the tiles were dry, a single coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow sealer was applied. This is an impregnating sealer with a colour enhancing component to ‘lift’ the stronger colours of the floor. Colour Grow however does leave a matt appearance and as the client had asked for a shiny finish it was topped up with five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go. This is a compatible topical sealer which added a mid to high sheen. By the end of the third day the Victorian floor looked brand new, and I received the following feedback from the client. Its rare to receive feedback from commercial customers so they were clearly overwhelmed with the transformation. Did not think this glued covered bad old floor could look sooooo good Fabulous Fantastic job Looks Amazing Thank you For aftercare I recommend the use of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which isn’t as harsh as many of the products you find in supermarket. Stronger products can actually strip off the sealer over time leaving it vulnerable to dirt and detracting from its appearance. Graham Davis North Kent Tile Doctor

This Victorian floor in Twickenham, Middlesex was in good physical condition for its age but needed a good deep clean. Our customer had informed us that they had never cleaned or sealed the floor in the sixteen years that they had lived there so it was well overdue. I went over to survey the floor and completed a test clean on a small section of tiling to see which products/techniques would work best. I like to do this as it demonstrates to the client what can be done, and it allows me to come up with an accurate price for doing the work. As you can see from the pictures, there was quite a difference in the test patch compared to the rest of the floor. Years of foot traffic from the street had taken its’ toll and the floor was very dirty. Luckily, the floor was in very good condition and had not worn too badly. Once they had seen the test patch, they were confident that it would be worth go ahead with my quote. It would ensure that the period feature was retained for many years to come. The colours on the floor were quite faded so it would be nice to get it restored. I started the cleaning process by first taping up the surrounding skirting boards and doors to ensure they were protected from potential splashing. Cleaning involved spraying the Victorian tiles with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a dedicated Tile and Grout cleaning product. This was left to soak in for about ten minutes and then scrubbed in using a black pad fitted to a heavy-duty rotary scrubber. This gives the floor a good mechanical scrub and works wonders releasing the ground-in dirt and soil from the tiles. The strong dilution of Pro-Clean will also remove any remaining sealers from the tile, however after sixteen years I doubted there would much trace of sealer left. Once done the floor was rinsed with water and all the soils removed with a wet vacuum. Following the initial clean the colours were already much stronger. Next step however was to improve on that by giving the floor an acid rinse using Tile Doctor Grout Clean-Up. This removes mineral deposits and generally brightens up the appearance of the tile. After another round of scrubbing the floor was rinsed with our high-pressure washer and then vacuumed, extracting all of the dirty water and dirt away in one go. The floor was looking a lot better and was left to dry overnight. After allowing the floor to dry overnight, we returned the next day to seal the floor. First, checking the floor was dry using the damp meter. Floors of this age can take a little longer to dry as there is no damp-proof membrane so it’s always worth checking as applying a sealer to damp tiles is not a good idea. Once I was satisfied it was dry eight coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go sheen finish sealer were applied. This takes a while to do as each coat needs to dry before applying the next. The sealer will protect the Victorian tiles for dirt and stains, it also enhanced the colours in the tile and will make it easier to keep the floor clean going forward. My client was very pleased with the floor and mentioned that they should have called me in sooner! For aftercare cleaning I recommended Tile Doctor Neutral Clean which is an effective cleaner with a neutral pH, its designed for cleaning tiles without degrading the sealer. Jonathan Oldham South Middlesex Tile Doctor

As is often the case in years past and for whatever reason many homeowners covered their decorative Victorian hallway tiles in a variety of products from carpet to laminate flooring. These days the trend has reversed and quite rightly many homeowners now realise the value a tiled floor can bring to a property and look to us to have it restored. Our client had purchased a property in Norfolk seaport of Kings Lynn and, on lifting the dirty old carpet and decaying underlay in the hallway, discovered a beautiful tiled entrance hall. It was obvious that a previous owner had decided to lay carpet over the tiles as an easy way of hiding the result of careless renovation and decorating which had resulted in a thick coating of plaster, paint, carpet tape glue and various other contaminants which had become firmly stuck to the surface. There were also two small rectangular black and brown tiles missing behind the front door which had been damaged during the removal of some old lead pipes. This was clearly a job which would need somewhat more than a scrubbing brush and a bottle of Flash! Our first job was to remove as much of the solid contaminants as possible by hand with floor scrapers and a steamer which softened the more stubborn lumps. We then applied Tile Doctor Remove & Go which is a powerful alkaline stripper to the whole area, left it to dwell on the surface for twenty minutes and then scrubbed it in using a rotary machine fitted with a black scrubbing pad. The resulting slurry was then power rinsed and extracted away using our Ninja machine which is a high-power industrial vacuum. Any remaining patches where the carpet tape had been stuck down were spot treated using Tile Doctor Nanotech HBU which made short work of the hardened glue. The result was a clean floor, but the surface still felt slightly rough and pitted, a problem which we resolved using the rotary machine fitted with a 200-grit diamond burnishing pad followed by a 400-grit pad with a little 400 grit honing powder which left the surface smooth, silky and ready for the application of a sealer. Finally, we acid washed the whole area using Tile Doctor Acid Gel, a slow release product which would neutralise any remaining chemicals, improve new sealer adhesion and inhibit the future production of any efflorescence salts. We had used a fair amount of water during the cleaning process, so we left the floor to dry off thoroughly overnight with assistance from our commercial dehumidifier. On our return the following day, we discussed the sealer options with the client and recommended using microporous Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that seeps into the pores of the stone protecting it from within. It will provide an excellent fluid resistant seal whilst enhancing the natural colours in the stone, additionally it’s fully breathable thereby enabling any moisture trapped under the floor to rise through the floor and evaporate. This is important on old floors like this where no damp-proof membrane was installed. The sealer was applied with a paint pad in tow coats and allowed to dry for an hour before buffing the floor with a hog’s hair pad to give a rich natural-look sheen finish. The Victorian tiles responded well to the treatments which were completed in two consecutive days. My client was extremely pleased with the results and left the following comment: “My floor was in poor condition after being buried under carpet as well as many, many years of paint and muck. I enjoyed the time they spent at my home and wouldn’t hesitate to use (or recommend) the Tile Doctor service in the future.” Nick White Norfolk Tile Doctor

The pictures below are of a Riven Slate floor at a house in in the Leeds suburb of Horsforth which had been laid ten years prior. It’s probably difficult to appreciate from the images but the sealer on this floor was well worn through in the high traffic areas making it patchy in places. Without the protection of the sealer dirt was now ingrained in the pores of the stone leaving it looking dull. Riven slate is always tricky to clean thoroughly due to the rough surface and that combined with the ingrained dirt was making it very difficult to keep clean. The floor now needed to be stripped of old sealer and then resealed and although I can provide a price for this over the phone my preference is to visit the property and survey the floor. In the case the owner had sent me some photographs via email however they were not too clear and so I felt it would be best if I paid the customer a visit to ensure I could give them an accurate price. The floor was indeed overdue a clean and seal, as suspected dirt was ingrained into the areas where the seal had worn off. The house was home to a very busy family, so the area was subject to the significant traffic. I carried out a test clean on a small area and they were surprised by the results, when you live with a floor for so long you don’t notice the very slow decline in its appearance. They agreed to my quote and we arranged a time to return and carry the deep clean out. When I arrived, I started off by protecting the skirting and surrounding woodwork. Given the rough surface of the floor I first applied Tile Doctor Wax Away which is a very effective coatings remover that is designed for removing wax but works very well in these situations. The product was left to dwell for a round ten minutes so it could get to work breaking down the old sealer and then scrubbed in using a black scrubbing pad fitted to a rotary machine. This process removed most of the dirt and old sealer, but some stubborn patches remained. To treat these, I replaced the black pad with a coarse 200-grit burnishing pad and finally some handheld diamond burnishing blocks for the edges and corners where more intricate work was required, and the circular pads struggle to reach. I gave the floor a rinse, and extracted the soil with a wet vacuum, the floor was then left to dry off overnight. The next day I returned, first the slate floor was checked for moisture using the moisture meter. Once I was happy it was within the correct parameters, I then sealed with four coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go. This is a modern water-based blend of acrylic polymers that provides both a stain resistant surface seal and a durable low-sheen finish also being water based there’s no smell as it dries. The sealer really brought the stone to back to life and the lovely colours in the natural stones were now evident. The patchy appearance of the floor was gone, and the customer was happy. I discussed with them how they should maintain the floor and advised them to use Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner. This is pH neutral cleaner that won’t prematurely erode the new sealer like the stronger products you find in Supermarkets which are only for use on Vinyl and Ceramic floors. Nigel Stoker North West Yorkshire Tile Doctor

This Victorian tiled hallway was one of the most beautiful Victorian floors I have ever had the pleasure to work on. With the wide range of patterns and colours they are available in, it seems no two Victorian tiled floors are exactly the same, and this uniqueness is part of what makes them so appealing to property owners. Unfortunately, this floor had been poorly maintained over the years, even suffering from a few loose and missing tiles. There was a thick coating of dust and dirt soiling its appearance, and the property owner was understandably keen to remedy the situation. Having realised that everyday household cleaners are not likely to achieve great results, she asked me to carry out a full professional restoration, including making some repairs where necessary. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that this property was situated in the town of Wyken, which is a few miles outside of Coventry city centre and in fact just down the road from where I live myself! Before making a start on the cleaning process, it was first necessary to re-fix the small number of loose tiles and replace a single missing tile by the radiator. Fortunately, I’ve been working on these types of floors for some time and have built up a good collection of replacement Victorian tiles so I was able to find one that matched in nicely with the rest of the floor without too much problem. To clean the tiles, I began by applying a layer of Tile Doctor Oxy-Gel directly into the floor with a small brush. This product is very similar to the popular Tile Doctor Pro Clean: both are strong alkaline cleaners, strippers and degreasers, with the main difference being that Oxy-Clean comes in a gel form, making it easier to control and therefore ideal for precise cleaning, or for application to vertical surfaces. Like Pro Clean and being an alkaline base it is suitable for use on all types of natural stone and tile. The Oxy-Gel was left to soak into the tiles for around ten minutes before being scrubbed in and then rinsed off carefully with water, I then used a wet vacuum to extract the now soiled cleaning solution off the floor. The next step was to acid wash the floor using Tile Doctor Acid Gel; this served to break down alkaline mineral deposits inherent in the grout along with some excess grout that had been left on the untidily left on tile from installation. It is recommended not to use this product on acid-sensitive soon such as Marble and Limestone as it can cause irreparable etching but its fine on Victorian tiles as long as you don’t leave it on too long. Finally, the floor was given a rinse with clean water to remove any trace of chemicals from the cleaning and to neutralise the area in preparation for sealing. I left the floor for 48 hours to dry before returning to the property to seal the tiles. This allowed plenty of time for the floor to dry completely, which is important as any excess moisture can damage the ability of the sealer to protect against dirt and stains. My choice of sealer for this floor was Tile Doctor High Shine; three coats in total were applied, providing – as the product name suggests – the high shine finish that the customer had requested. The sealer will provide durable surface protection going forward preventing dirt from becoming ingrained into the pores of the tile and ensuring it remains easy to clean and keeping its appearance for some time to come. As a big fan of Victorian tiles, it was a great pleasure to restore this floor, and my customer was certainly pleased too. It’s amazing how far a little professional maintenance can go to improving the appearance of these fantastic types of floor. Mick Gayton Warwickshire Tile Doctor

The owners of this Edwardian property in Finchley had purchased it a couple of years prior and since then had slowly been renovating it to restore its original character. The project was almost complete and now attention had turned to the tiled floor. The tiles were in quite a state and I was asked to work our Tile Doctor magic and bring it back to its original condition. When they moved in the hallway had been covered with carpet which gave the tiles underneath some protection. Unfortunately, however the carpet has been secured with carpet grippers that had been glued to the tiles around the edges. There were also paint splashes on the surface that would need dealing with. On top of that the floor had a few missing tiles that had been back filled by cement to provide a level base for the carpet, the client wanted like them replaced if possible. After surveying the floor, I explained what could be done and ever completed a small test clean to demonstrate how the tiles would look once deep cleaned. I was confident on being able to source very similar reclaimed tiles so replacing the missing should not be a problem. The client was very happy with the initial test result and my quotation so booked me in to restore the floor. On my return I started by applying Tile Doctor Remove and Go to soften up the glue which allowed it to be carefully peeled off the tiles with scrappers. Once all the carpet adhesive was gone, I worked a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go into the tiles using a black pad to work the cleaning solution deeper into the tiles. A wet vacuum was used to remove the slurry created, and I followed this by giving the tiles an extra clean using a 200-grit diamond burnishing pad lubricated with water. The last step in the cleaning process was to give the floor an acid rinse using Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up, I did this for several reasons, first it removes old grout smears from the surface of the tile and second it neutralised any efflorescent salts lying dormant in the floor. This can be quite a problem for old floors which don’t have the benefit of a protective damp proof membrane under the floor. The floor was given a final rinse with water which was again extracted with a wet vacuum. I then set about lifting all the loose tiles (approximately ten) and carefully removing the concrete infills. I had previously managed to source replacements for these holes from original features. Unfortunately, they didn’t sell the correct sized octagon tiles, so I had bought 150mm square tiles and then needed to cut them on site to get the right size. After cutting and fixing the tiles I fixed them in place and regrouted the rest of the floor. I then left the floor to dry out overnight and returned in the morning. Before applying a sealer, I took several moisture readings with the damp meter to make sure the tiles were dry enough to take the sealer. I was able to confirm the floor was dry, so went ahead and applied three coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow sealant. Colour Grow is an impregnating sealer that is fully breathable sealer which is important when it comes to old floors like these that don’t have a damp proof membrane installed. My client was very happy with the renovated floor and for aftercare I left them with a bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner and gave advice on how best to clean the floor going forward. Andrew Newstead North London Tile Doctor

During an inspection for alteration work, this customer from Cheshunt discovered what appeared to be an original encaustic tiled floor under the hallway carpet. Keen to work out what it was, and have it restored, I was asked to pop round and look. I went over as requested to survey the hallway floor and confirm their suspicions. The carpet had been secured with gripper rods glued onto the floor and that came away easily enough. Underneath, the tiles had been covered with self-levelling cement which had to be carefully scraped away to reveal the tiles. I ran a test to see if the cement leveller could be easily removed and using a combination of a scraper with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean, I was able to confirm the tiled floor was indeed salvageable. The house was Edwardian, and the tiles had been laid in a classic black and white geometric pattern typical of the period so I suspect the floor was indeed original. I worked out a quote to restore the whole floor including the removal of the cement, deep cleaning and then sealing the tiles. Without removing all the cement, it would be difficult to price for replacing broken tiles, but I suspected there may be a few as its quite usual for a floor of this age. Keen to have the floor restored we were given the go-ahead and a date scheduled for the work to start. The first step was to remove all the carpet and gripper rod so we could see the full extent of the self-levelling screed. Once done it was a case of carefully chipping and scraping away to break up the cement until the tiled floor had been fully revealed. Its slow and detailed work but quite rewarding when the tiled floor is finally revealed. The tiles had survived well under the carpet and cement but as suspected a few repairs and replacement would be needed. With all the cement brushed away work moved onto cleaning which started with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean applied to the floor and left to soak in for fifteen minutes the scrubbed in with a rotary machine fitted with a Black pad. A lot of soiling is generated from this which is rinsed off with water and extracted with a wet vacuum. The floor was then inspected and the process repeated where required. The next step was to treat the tiles to an acid wash using Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up. This is applied as before and has several benefits including dissolving the remaining cement residue and neutralising the pH of the floor after the use of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean which is a strong alkaline. The floor was then inspected and the broken tiles carefully removed so they could be replaced. This is delicate work as lifting a tile can sometimes upset its neighbour and before you know it the size of the work has tripled. Replacement tiles were then cut to fit the existing geometric pattern and secured into place with a rapid set adhesive and grouted in. Once the replacement tile and grout had set, the floor was given a light clean using Tile Doctor Neutral Tile Cleaner and then left to dry out overnight. The next day the tiles were sealed using a single coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow and the followed up with give coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go. Colour Grow is an impregnator that soaks into the pores of the tile protecting it from within and improving colour, where as Seal and Go adds a nice subtle sheen to the tiles. Both products are breathable which is an important feature with old floors that don’t have a damp proof membrane. For aftercare I recommended Neutral Tile Cleaner which is a gentle but effective tile cleaning product that won’t damage the sealer. Robert Voyce Hertfordshire TIle Doctor

Coco coir is a versatile and sustainable growing medium that is gaining popularity among gardeners. Made from the fibrous husk of coconuts, it’s an eco-friendly alternative to peat moss and can greatly enhance the quality of your soil. In gardening, it is often utilized in systems like Coco Coir Hydroponic, where it helps create an efficient water and nutrient delivery system. What is Coco Coir? Coco coir is a natural fiber extracted from coconut husks. It has a neutral pH, excellent water retention, and is reusable, making it a favorite among gardeners who prefer organic and sustainable practices. It is available in different forms such as blocks, bricks, or loose coir, each requiring some preparation before use in gardening. Benefits of Using Coco Coir in Gardening Coco coir offers several advantages for gardening. Here are the benefits of using coco coir in gardening: Holds up to 10 times its weight in water, ensuring plants have consistent moisture. Promotes oxygen flow to plant roots, leading to healthier root systems. Coco coir is a renewable and eco-friendly alternative to peat moss. It can be washed, rehydrated, and reused, reducing waste. Naturally pH neutral, making it suitable for various plants without major adjustments. Enhances the texture and moisture retention of garden soil. How to Prepare Coco Coir for Planting Preparing coco coir for planting involves a few essential steps. First, you need to hydrate the coir block, as it typically comes in a compressed form. Place the block in a large container and add warm water, allowing the block to expand and absorb the water. Once fully expanded, the coir should be fluffed up by breaking it apart with your hands or a tool to ensure it becomes loose and airy. After the coir has been fluffed, it is important to drain any excess water, as overly wet coir can lead to root suffocation. Finally, since coco coir is inert and does not contain nutrients, it’s a good idea to add organic compost or liquid fertilizer to enrich the coir before planting. Do You Need to Soak Coco Coir Before Planting? Yes, soaking coco coir before planting is necessary. Since it comes in a compressed form, it needs to be broken down and hydrated for proper use. The soaking process allows the coir to expand and release the fibers, making it usable as a growing medium. After soaking, the coir should be fluffed to ensure the water is evenly distributed. Draining any excess water is crucial because overly wet coir may impede plant root health. How to Prepare Coco Peat for Planting Coco peat, a fine, powdery form of coco coir, is highly beneficial for seed starting and improving water retention in soil. To prepare coco peat, it first needs to be hydrated, similar to how you prepare coir blocks. Slowly add water to the peat in a container and allow it to absorb and fluff up. Once hydrated, coco peat can be used on its own or mixed with other growing media such as perlite or vermiculite for added aeration and drainage. It is advisable to check the pH level of your final mix, as coco peat generally has a neutral pH, but adjustments may be necessary depending on the plants being grown. Can You Use Just Coco Coir for Plants? Yes, coco coir can be used by itself to grow plants, especially in hydroponic systems or as a seed-starting medium. However, because coco coir does not naturally contain nutrients, you will need to provide regular fertilizer to support plant growth. This makes it particularly suitable for plants grown in controlled environments, such as hydroponics, where nutrient solutions can be carefully managed. In traditional soil-based gardening, mixing coco coir with other organic materials like compost is recommended to provide essential nutrients and improve the overall soil structure. How to Use Coco Coir in Hydroponics Coco coir is widely used in hydroponic systems due to its water retention and aeration properties. To use coco coir in hydroponics, it first needs to be soaked and hydrated, as discussed earlier. Once the coir is fully prepared, it can be placed in the hydroponic system. Since coco coir does not contain natural nutrients, you will need to supply a balanced nutrient solution tailored for hydroponic plants. Regular monitoring of water and nutrient levels is essential to prevent nutrient imbalances or root rot. One of the benefits of coco coir in hydroponics is its reusability. After completing a growing cycle, the coir can be washed, rehydrated, and used again in future plantings. Using Coco Coir as a Soil Amendment Coco coir is also an excellent soil amendment, as it improves the texture and moisture retention of garden soil. To use coco coir in this way, mix loose coir with your existing garden soil at a ratio of one part coco coir to two parts soil. This will help retain moisture without compacting the soil, improving both water drainage and root growth. For optimal results, you can also add organic compost to the mix, ensuring that the nutrient levels are sufficient for plant growth. Coco coir works particularly well in raised beds, where it helps maintain proper soil structure over time. Advantages of Using Coco Coir Over Peat Moss While peat moss has been traditionally used as a growing medium, coco coir offers several advantages over it. Coco coir is a renewable resource, as it is a byproduct of coconut processing, while peat moss is harvested from peat bogs that take centuries to regenerate. Coco coir is also more durable, as it can be reused multiple times without breaking down, while peat moss disintegrates after a single use. Another key benefit is its neutral pH, whereas peat moss is more acidic and may require balancing to meet the needs of specific plants. Conclusion Coco coir is a highly versatile and sustainable growing medium that benefits both novice and experienced gardeners alike. Whether you are using it for hydroponics, as a soil amendment, or as a standalone medium for growing plants, knowing how to properly prepare and use it is key to maximizing its benefits. By following the steps detailed above, you can improve water retention, aeration, and overall plant health in your garden, all while contributing to eco-friendly gardening practices.

Does your orange tree drop its fruit before it reaches full size, or worse, does it drop flowers before the fruit starts to form? Trees photosynthesize to produce carbohydrates like sugar which they store as a source of energy. They can maintain a limited amount, which is used to drive the growth of new leaves, branches, roots and stem. Fruitfulness requires the tree to divert its limited energy sources away from these vital functions to the production of flowers, blossoms and fruits. Fruit development involves maturity followed by fertilization, growth, maturity and maturity. This process takes between 6-7 months in warmer climates, which requires a large number of tree energy sources as a result. Trees are able to manage their resources, and will also divert them to emergencies ... Fruit Drop and Crop Depression In regions where oranges produce one crop per year, they go through a series of growth stages as follows: Sprout formation and flower launching (mid-winter) Flowers and fruit set (early spring) Fruit growth - cell division (late spring to early summer) Fruit growth - cell proliferation (mid-summer to early autumn) Fruit ripening (autumn to late winter) The difference is in the regions where most citrus crops are produced year-round. In these cases, the different stages of development will take place simultaneously. The orange tree can handle its plant load well, and it will bear as much fruit as we can support. It is natural for all citrus trees to produce too little fruit and too little flowers in early spring to prevent overproduction. There is no need to worry too much about flowering, as an orange tree needs only 1% to 2% of flowers to produce a good crop, and sometimes even less than 1% is enough. If a tree is depressed because it does not get enough water in hot, dry weather, and if it dies of nitrogen starvation because it is not given enough fertilizer, fruit set will be very difficult in the spring. There may also be a small number of fruit losses in the summer under stressful conditions. Solution: Provide enough water, and water often in hot weather and strong winds. Orange feed with moderate fertilizer in early spring (September in Southern hemisphere, March in the Northern Hemisphere) Fruit Drop and Lack of Potassium Nutrient When orange trees are heavy, the decline in fruit can be exacerbated by low potassium levels. Potassium, also known as potash (represented by the chemical mark K on fertilizer labels meaning N-P-K or nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratio) is a major macronutrient needed for flowering and fruit formation. Next to nitrogen, plants absorb more potassium than any other nutrient. Without potassium, the trees stop flowering and fruiting, which is what happens if they are not fed regularly. Before any smug horticulturist declares to you that potassium has no direct effect on flowering and fruit set, let me say that as a horticulturist and biochemist, plant chemistry, like the chemistry of all living things is complex, but some input it is necessary to produce certain results. , and the references I have made to the end of this article support what I am saying! Entering science, Potassium (K) is essential for water, nutrients and the movement of carbohydrates in plant tissues. It also activates enzymes that facilitate the synthesis of complex chemicals within the plant - such as starch, protein and adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production. The role of ATP is to transport the energy needed for all cellular metabolic activities to all living things, and in plants ATP production can regulate the level of photosynthesis. Potassium also helps regulate the opening and closing of stomata, holes or cavities under which oxygen and carbon dioxide are exchanged with the atmosphere, and respiratory losses are controlled. It increases root growth which increases the absorption of nutrients and improves drought resistance, and increases resistance to frost, pests and diseases. High potassium levels produce similar maturity and fruit growth rate, as well as better nutritional quality, taste and range. Agricultural extension agencies suggest that large amounts of potash are needed in many crops, and that potassium deficiency or macronutrient deficiency leads to reduced crop growth and reduced yields, and that potassium levels not only affect yield, but fruit size, juice. quality and shelf life. Since potassium plays an important role in water regulation, deficiency can clearly increase the pressures associated with the declining fruit mentioned in the previous section. Solution: Make sure that the orange trees are fertilized with the right fertilizer as previously discussed. Extra potassium can be brought in using seaweed extract (which is not a fertilizer but contains a good amount of potassium), wood ash (used in small quantities only as it is very alkaline), or potash sulphate (potassium sulphate) - all this is guaranteed. as acceptable in a natural garden. Never use potassium chloride as it can be harmful to plants, it is a very inexpensive alternative to fertilizer manufacturers to save money! Even if there are sufficient levels of potassium in the soil, it may not be accessible to plants, unless we make some improvements.