Unfortunately, it was definitely the wrong way to go about doing this. For staters the "accent" on top of the glass blend is a wrap around piece that he could have used to finish corners. He should have use a chair rail molding to top the glass blend accent border as showed on pictures. Is not only his fault. The tile store you bought tile from should advised you on the use of the pieces you were purchasing. Now, I will advise you to take the wrap around corner that's being use as a molding and replace it with chair rail molding as picture and wrap it all around in to the shower. It just makes it even and more consistent. Good luck.

Thanks. I'm not sure what you mean by "proud of the corner." Is it possible to do a sketch? I'm so upset by this. I'm already envisioning hiring someone else to fix this. The tile person is not inexperienced either.

Does the problem arise because the bottom of the column is thicker than the top? I'm not even sure why this is so.

If I didn't have the trim wrap around, what would be the solution to joining the narrower top with the wider bottom of the column?

Design inspirations,

I see what you've used. Would that have to be in the shower as well or just as the wrap-around and the molding above the trim around the room?

I could use your advice on how to handle this. 1. I'm not even sure that there is chair rail that matches exactly. 2. This guy is ready to go to another project on Saturday. How do I stop all of this without creating havoc and bad feelings? My plumber and well man and this guy are all friends and all working for me at the same time. I definitely don't want to alienate them. To make matters a little worse, I'm a single woman. I could use a little testosterone. :-((((

Also, is the odd angle a large part of the problem? It's not a 90 degree angle.

I just noticed that's not a 1/4 round, it's a closure for an outside corner - the installer used the wrong tile at the top of the glass accent. This will be tricky to continue up the wall and you may be better off removing it and using a true 1/4 round. I do not say that lightly, "removing" tile is a misleading phrase....it's demo :(

By proud of the corner, I mean just like it is below the glass mosaic in the first photo where the tile is installed to extend beyond the corner rather than flush with it. The tile hangs out far enough to match the radius of the (true) 1/4 round, so the surfaces are coincident. I didn't realize the wall actually changes thickness, geometrically this still might work but you'd have to check whether it covers the mosaic dovetail.

I think that going in to the shower with the chair rail molding will make things easier. He just has to handle it as if he was installing wood molding. By cutting 45degree angles on each side and make the turn in to the shower. The wrap around corner he should use where they are meant for. Which is to wrap around corners. You should definitely find chair rail moldings where you bought tile.

I own a tile store and I'm also a kitchen a bath designer. I always encounter issues with people that are new in the business. But, the way I approach something like this will be I will just say " I'm not sure this is the right way to go about this, I will show him the pics and say I feel like it needs to be like the picture" can you install the borders and corners like picture? I'm sure he will say yes and fix issue for you. Use your female charm it always works.

Lagwagonshow

I am so not savvy about any of this. Can you explain what you meant literally by the demo. What exactly would have to come down? Would the quarter round be the finishing piece? Sorry for being so tile-dumb.

What I mean is, thin set mortar does not "come undone". You can break and chip away the tile carefully, in theory, and scrape down the mortar, but that's a lot of hard, slow, painful work. To remove the tile with less effort, you'll cut through the sheetrock or cement board the tile is mortared to, remove the tile and board, and have to patch in the board before setting new tile. Lots of dust and exposing the studs, but with the right tools the damaged area is limited to the tiles you want to remove. It's demo either way - safety glasses, dust mask, ear muffs, gloves, debris.

The ~1" wide tile you have along the top over the sink is the piece that's the wrong shape. Look at the cross section of the tile - it's a trough or crescent shape, set on edge against the glass mosaic.

A 1/4 round piece will have a cross section that's a quarter of a circle, and the radius of the circle would be selected to match the thickness of the mosaic tile. It would be used in place of the trough-shaped edging and give a cleaner finish.

Like I said, there's more than one way to fix this, and other shapes are possible such as the chair rail Tile Design Inspirations shows above. The last photo Tile Designs posted illustrates what that trough shape is intended for - it wraps around the outside corners.

Thanks to both of you who answered. I have a question that maybe the tile man can answer (and maybe already has). Why is the top narrower than the bottom? Is that the source of the problem?

I'm printing out pictures. If he's not willing to fix this, then I will find someone who will. I'm glad that I had experts to corroborate my sense of things.

In the photos, it's hard to see a thickness change in the wall. It just looks like there's 4x4 tile below the mosaic on the left side and none above. A slight thickness change can be accommodated with judicious mortar work.

Design,

Would the chair rail have to be continued into the shower and around it in order to fix this?

BTW the tile place told me the pieces might not work. That I should take one home and test it.

This is partially my fault because I wanted to keep the height of the tile on the wall to a relative minimum. Needless to say, I never anticipated the problem with the wrap around.

Oops. One more thing that I forgot to add. The chair rail molding, will, I'm pretty sure, will come above the electrical outlets.

Yes, the reason for the difference between the top and the bottom is because there's tile on the bottom and none on the top.

I just spoke to the guy. He said we'd figure something out, but that there was nothing we could do about the discrepancy in size between the top and the bottom. I asked him if things would look smoother if the trim didn't wrap around and we had all white tile on those two sides. He said that there still would have to be somewhere where the transition would have to be made between the larger bottom and the smaller top. I think that might be the crux of the problem.

Just to update everyone. The trim is off that area forever, and I've ordered more bull nose. It looks like it will be a straight run up and down without the trim.

Thank you to all of you who were supportive and helpful. Really!!!

Will post a pic once the tiling is completed which now won't be until mid week.