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kcmo_don

compaction issue

20 years ago

I am in Kansas city, MO a VERY clay based zone 5, and I have been in my home for about 2 years. I have been FEVERISHLY amending my soil and in places that I have focused it is an earthworm Mecca with a light fluffy texture, and sweet aroma! J

I have since built one LONG raised bed for 20 different varieties of heirloom tomato.

Here is my "issue" Â. Last fall after laying down several sheets of wet newspaper, I filled these beds with shredded leaves, old horse manure, finished compost, grass clippings, and some good topsoil. I was diligent about turning the material in these beds about every 7-10 days all winter (very mild winter). I suddenly have a TON of earthworms (and worm egg cases), and cannot find any real sign of the individual ingredients that filled the beds. As I turned the beds I dug approx. 12 inches into the ground below in order to gain more room for roots. I think by incorporating this clay soil into the raised bed material I have made it far to dense and compaction prone. This mix can REALLY hold the water!!! And it is pretty "heavy" when wet. I havenÂt had a soil sample done and in the name of my budget I probably wonÂt.

Do you all think that adding a LOT of perlite will fix this issue?

Do you think it will be a problem?

The beds are 12" high (plus 12" below) and 18" wide, by very long! J Imagine a 40 foot trough.

Any input would be GREATLY appreciated as the Toms will be going in about 4 weeks from now!!

Thanks a ton

Don

Comments (5)

  • 20 years ago

    it seems like you incorporated lots of good organic materials and worked really hard on it. you are probably right on the mix being little bit heavier because of the additional dig, naturally you have incorporated some clay soil. not actually seeing how heavy it is, it is hard to tell but 12 inches might be a considerable amount to change the soil condition. but then again you have that good stuff you did 12 inches....
    if i were you i will try to break the clay as much as possible and incorporate with the good stuff. - you probably have already done that. if it feels still too clay you probably have to combine it with more soil conditioner. the bed will overall greatly benefit from it. or you can just plant anyway and consider amanding soil over years, as the time goes it will improve if you keep adding more organic material. i mean, nobody starts with the perfect soil, right?

    or you can actually do the jar test to see how it is actually. here we go, so you collect soil (sieve any pebbles , roots or any large debries . put 1 cup of mixed soil in a clear quart jar, fill it up with water and seal, shake vigorusly. let the jar stand fro 24 hours so the soil settles. you are basically looking at the layer that is formed in the bottom. ( don't move the jar to avoid the stir up) organic particle is the ones that's floating on top - ignore, it's not the part of the test. the very botton on the jar is the sand( largest particle) ; the medium in the middle is the silt and the lightest is the clay and it's gonna be on top.

    clay soil is 20-35% clay and at least 45% sand -sandy clay
    25-40% clay and up to 20% sand -silty clay loam
    over 45% clay is clay

    sandy soil is 50-70% sand -sandy loam
    70-85% sand-loamy sandy

    silt soil is 45-80 % silt- silt loams
    if 80-100% silt - silt

    ideal soil condition is 20% clay 40% silt and 40% sand

  • 20 years ago

    Hi, Don. The purpose of a raised bed is to get your garden growing above soils with drainage issues so that water can drain by flowing horizontally.

    Think of it like this: Imagine your raised bed is a damp sponge sitting on top of the clay (the kitchen table). As you add water to the sponge, it absorbs it until saturated. Then, water moves horizontally across the table top away from the sponge. This is how your raised bed should perform. If you put your sponge in a bowl on top of the table, the water can no longer move horizontally until the bowl is filled. You have, in essence, created a "bowl".

    The most effective method of removing water from the "bowl" will be a ditch or tile that leads to a lower spot so water can drain. Just as adding perlite to the bowl will not help it to drain, adding it, or other drainage enhancers to your soil will not help it to drain. You'll need to create a place for it (water in the bowl) to go, or wait for it to perc through the clay.

    The soil above grade should still drain well, as water can still move horizontally away from that portion of the soil in the bed(s).

    Al

  • 20 years ago

    Thanks Al !!!
    Oh wise guru of all that is soil :)
    I truly DO value your input!!
    My rasied beds are actually built on the highest part of a hill.
    I think I may still dig a trench up to the beds and fill with gravel for drainage.

    Thanks again!

  • 20 years ago

    I just saw this - you're funny, Don. ;o) Thanks.

    Al

  • 20 years ago

    Vegetative matter in the soil is continually breaking down and needs to be added to. I add compost spring and fall as a mulch on top of the soil. Your earthworms will incorporate it into the soil for you. Every year the soil will get better. I do not use fertilizer of any kind in my garden as a result. Al