Direct seeding kale

16 years ago

Everything I read describes starting kale indoors, and setting out as transplants.

I have to say that last year, I had a batch of radish seeds (I think it was the radishes) that apparently has curly kale seeds mixed in, because I had quite a lot of kale come up! I was surprised, because it did very well and I had nice huge plants come fall.

So, one thing I discovered from this experience, was that I really like kale, and also, apparently it does not need to be started indoors for a good harvest?

Does anyone else direct seed kale that lives in a cold climate like I do? I understand that setting out transplants will let me harvest earlier, but I have to say that in early summer I am all about other vegetables, and am happy to wait for the kale to grow.

I do plan to just direct seed it this year.

Thoughts?

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bagardens (Ohio, Zone 5b)

16 years ago

Last year I had good luck direct seeding my kale. I started it early, around the first week of April. I did cover it with row cover for the first week or two till the temps got warmer outside, or at least until the seed germinated. I think because they got a early start it helped protect them form the flea beetles. I have a very hard time growing things that the flea beetles love. I think they were a good size by the time the beetles started to eat everything. I do not think they like greens as much once they get to a certain size.

I plan to try the same thing this year and hopefully I have luck again.

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Comments (10)

denninmi
16 years ago
Well, I say, if it works for you, then do it.

Personally, I've always had dismal luck direct sowing any Brassica oleracea crops, because the little seedlings seem like such a tempting morsel to any and all pests and vermin out there, from slugs, earwigs, and flea beetles to bunnies and deer.

Strangely enough, I don't have any problem with radishes, rutabagas, turnips. Perhaps something to do with the oils in them? Whatever the reason, those I can direct sow with impunity, and, while they might get a few nibbles, it's not the all-out massacre the little B. oleracea seedlings face.

So, I always do transplants of B. oleracea in order to give them a little more of a fighting chance.
Donna
16 years ago
I agree with the pest issue. In addition, there is an advantage of being able to control the soil temperature inside. Kale germinates at soil temps of 45 to 85 degrees. (That's what my seed packet says. I couldn't get it up at 85 last summer.) To deter pests, you could use row covers over the seedlings.
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greenmulberry
Original Author
16 years ago
Alright. well maybe I will start just a few plants inside just in case I have pest issues, and direct seed the rest.

It would be just like me to have a great year direct seeding something and then a dismal year the next!
laceyvail 6A, WV
16 years ago
I only grow kale for a fall crop, Winterbor because of its cold hardiness. I direct sow it in mid July, and as soon as it comes up, I dust it lightly with rotenone and cover with row covers, checking every few days to see how it's doing and to dust again if it's rained. Once it has a second set of leaves, I don't dust again, but I keep the row covers on for the rest of its life until winter. This kale almost always winters over, and the spring kale that grows from the nodes of the old leaves is a wonderful, sweet treat. Sometimes I can harvest a little in February. (Not this year. We just had a snowstorm, and are expecting another tomorrow.)
erlyberd
16 years ago
Don't forget cutworms.

I always direct seed in a cold frame in March for my kale and grow/harvest it from early spring through most of the winter.

Just make a heavy sowing and thin later.
jimster
16 years ago
What's your favorite variety of kale? Why?

Jim
paloaltomark
16 years ago
Kale is a cool season vegetable, so I wouldn't and don't transplant. My favorite variety is Siberian Dwarf which I plan in my winter garden.
erlyberd
16 years ago
Dwarf Blue Scotch for cold frames
Red Russian for garden proper
flora_uk
16 years ago
Another reasons, apart from pest avoidance, for transplanting kale and other brassicas is that it means you can use your land more efficiently. By starting in modules you can use the ground where your kale is going to go for several weeks longer for other crops. For example, I can cut down my spent peas or favas in June and immediately have good sized kale/brassica plants to go straight in to the same spot. If I direct sowed I'd have those kale plants tying up space for almost 2 months. Obviously, if you have plenty of space this doesn't matter.