You need the worms to keep your soil healthy, be happy, and it all depends what type of squash you're planting. You could try some seeds in a container if you plant the bush kind.

Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials

I am assuming that you are talking about SVB (squash vine borers) rather than actual worms. They are moth larvae.

We have a FAQ on Squash Vine Borer here and below is a link to numerous discussions about them. Many offer additional links to recommendations for control, prevention methods, and resistant varieties.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: SVB Discussions...

Ahhhh....the dreaded squash vine borers. We have been fighting those little buggers for years and there are a few things you can do.
One of the first things you can do is watch for the little moths that lay the eggs that produce the vine borer.
Here in Iowa you will find the moth's for about a 2 week period in early June buzzing like little wasps around our pumpkin patch. Usually they appear in the morning or late afternoon and the little orange moths will land on leaves and will sit for a while giving you time to spray it with flying bug spray.
Once you have seen moths and it is inevitable that they will get some eggs layed....wait about 2 weeks and spray your garden with "Seven" bug spray concentrate around bases of your squash. Otherwise you can get powder form of Seven that you can sprinkle around your squash plants. Saturate the area around the stems with the Seven and keep your eyes peeled for vine borere activity.Sometimes you can find the baby borers around base of your plants or find the early small holes. You can literally cut them out of plant when they are smaller and your plant may be okay.
If you wait and let the borer keep eating it will keep growing and eventually kill the plant...as you found out.
If you do cut into your vine...use a very sharp little kitchen knife and gently slice into hole.....
..remove the borer....smash the little borer or drop it in water and then take top soil and cover vine up past the incision and water really good. Keep the vine covered up for a least a week.
Keep an eye on vine or squash plant...if it doesnt make it ....cut it off and remove it from dying off and possibly getting diseased.

I have done lots of research on ways to deter vine borers. Seen methods from old time gardeners saying to plant a onion bulb with each pumpkin/squash mound....tried it -did not work.
One said to plant radishes at plant base- tried it-did not work.
Another method is to wrap tin foil around base of each pumpkin or squash plant.
We have over 1500 hills of pumpkins and squash....that idea is not feasible...but for small gardeners its something to consider after you see the moth come around.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:45184}}

Sue,
Thanks for posting the picture, now I know what to look for, not that I have had much problems in the past, but still a good thing to look out for.

Lest I inadvertently hijack this thread - keep in mind I was just assuming the OP was talking about SVB based on the info given. We haven't heard back from him/her yet if that is the real problem or not.

So until we do and know for sure what the problem is, there is little to be gained by re-hashing all the SVB info already linked above. ;)

Dave

Well....Dave

"there is little to be gained by rehashing all the SVB info already linked above"

I have to disagree here. Don't people come here for answers to their problems or discuss method that have worked or etc.
"chrmann" (the OP) most likely lost her squash plants to vine borers. But she is not the only one with this problem. It took me many years to actually figure out how to combat vine borers and know what to look for in my garden. I have read many articles, books and online material and still am learning new info on the subject everyday.
I find it hard to understand why you just think it's up to you be the moderator on what information we are posting here and discussing.
Your link to the Ohioline EDU is good article but its just that. There are tons of articles written on subject and anybody can find them by "GOOGLING" it. The OP came here to find a quick answer.
Your other link to other SVB discussions comes up with no listings.
Maybe the OP did not want to go to numerous links or do a complete search on what has been "rehashed" before.

find it hard to understand why you just think it's up to you be the moderator on what information we are posting here and discussing.

Sue - I in no way said or even implied I was some sort of moderator. I just don't want my initial assumption to hijack the thread. To turn this into another of the 100's of prior discussions on SVB (which I also linked above) UNLESS that is the problem the OP is asking about. Hijacking the thread is just as inappropriate as that first spammer (who just goes from forum to forum posting his personal website whether it is relevant to the question of not) response.

The FAQ link works and the reason the link to the discussions comes up "no results" right now is because the entire GW search engine is down right now. It was working fine last night and has only been down since late this AM. Once the SE is back online, the link above will again be valid.

Don't people come here for answers to their problems or discuss method that have worked or etc.

Of course, but first let's find out what the problem really is. We need more information from the OP.

"chrmann" (the OP) most likely lost her squash plants to vine borers.

Probably, but we don't know that for sure from the information supplied. I further assumed that the OP would look at all the info and all the pics provided in the prior discussions I linked and then let us know if that was the problem or not or if he/she had additional questions. How does inundating him with what may turn out to be totally irrelevant info helping him?

Maybe the OP did not want to go to numerous links or do a complete search on what has been "rehashed" before.

He didn't have to (even though that is the requirement in the forum guidelines to prevent redundant posts).

Before posting a question, please check the FAQ and do a search to make sure it hasn't already been answered.

I did it for him because from the info provided I assumed he didn't know for sure what to search for. And I narrowed the results to the most relevant and helpful posts with pictures and numerous links to controls.

As to "rehashing" - without more info that's exactly what we would be doing, simply rehashing a highly redundant issue and one that may not even be the real problem.

I'm sorry if you were offended by my post above. That was not my intention at all.

Dave

Yes, the squash vine borers are what I was talking about.

I would like to "Thank You" for all of the information you sent my way.

Sorry folks if this was a question that has already been asked. But, I'm fixing to plant my squash and wanted to make sure I knew what to do, since I've had a problem in the past.

And, I got the information that I needed. Thanks again!

Gardenweb is a wonderful place to get answers! This is one of my favorite sites on the web. Probably because I have a 2 acre vegetable garden and about that much in flowers also. I love to garden! It keeps me busy and I do not have much time for research. So, I appreciate the answers that I have been given.

Sevin has not worked for me! I've tried it before and it didn't kill the squash vine borers.

That is one reason I was wanting to see what others were doing that worked.

Carbaryl ( Sevin is one brand name) will work to a decent extent,. There is no sure thing with SVB. You do have to carefully monitor the plants. Catch the flight of moths and apply carbaryl to eggs and it will take them out. Once the larvae enters the stem, no insecticide works. With a few plants folks gets some results with surgery and few have reported good results by injecting liquid Bt into the stem.

Thanks for getting back to us chrmann.;) I'm glad we were able to help. Did you read about using the row covers? Is that at all feasible for you or do you have too many plants? I have found it to be the most effective but it does mean you have to hand pollinate.

Or you can use it in conjunction with the Bt - let the row covers prevent the egg laying and then leave them off for pollination while using the Bt.

Good luck! ;)

Dave