Growing strawberries at your temperatures will be a challenge. They do require regular fertilizer during the bearing season. I doubt lack of fertilizer is your problem. Have you spoken to your local nursery about the trick to growing strawberries in your climate. Calistoga Al

Most summer bearing types should not be fertilized until after fruiting. They require chill hours to fruit. Not sure how you can obtain them in your location? (chill hours) I suppose some types are much better than others. or native strawberry species would be best.

You might of over fertilized. If you bought local, ask sellers about it, and how much to use.

This post was edited by Drew51 on Sat, Nov 29, 14 at 8:08

Thanks both.I asked the local nursery person he told normal watering is enough.Moreover they dont know much about the fruit since it is the first time they are selling this plants in our locality.If there are any Californian people over here growing strawberries can you give the proportions of fertilizer you use for strawberries and chemical you use for preventing fungi damage.

The only fungicide I use is Captan to stop gray mold (botrytis rot), it must be mixed in water that is slightly acidic.
California is a dry environment and little if any fungicide is ever needed for any fruit crop. Hardly any brown rot in stone fruit, wish we had that dryness. I have to spray for many fungal infections.
This is the best site for strawberry info I know about.
http://strawberryplants.org/

I have about 18 plants in 1 gal containers, all day-neutral or everbearing (Albion is fantastic, also have Eversweet and Quinalt). They're constantly watered from a capillary mat system. I put organic fertilizer in with the soil. Watering is key -- without constant, correct watering, the strawberry fruit will be deformed. They do appreciate regular fertilizer as well. I believe something more balanced than heavy on the nitrogen is best. If you're organic, go with a fruit fertilizer like Dr. Earth or Jobes.

Yes if not June bearing you do fertilize pretty much steady.
The capilary mat system sounds perfect for strawberries.
I grow White D pineberries and they act more like June bearing. I grow ever-bearing, and like Mara Des Bois. The taste is fantastic. If left to ripen perfect, taste much like Alpines, but much bigger.I also grow alpines and musk strawberries. Here's a photo of a daily harvest.
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Musk These are very unique.. You need both male and female plants. Notice the red seeds. Almost look like metalic red paint, very cool and great tasting fruit.
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I grow a lot of pineberries. They also have a very unique taste nothing tastes anything like them.
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Thanks for the link drew.Is the musk strawberry you were growing is hermaphrodite.Thanks jay what exactly do you mean by 'correct watering'.Does it require any specific proportion or quantity while watering.

You need a male plant with the musk, so no not hermaphrodite. Like some other plants, such as kiwi where you need one mail vine for 8 female kiwi vines. The males flower and sucker like the female. Very interesting fruit, the taste is much like alpine strawberries except stronger. They don't produce a lot of berries. Pineberries do produce a lot and grow much like summer bearing. I have tried many cultivars and so far "White D" is the best one. If anybody wants to try them, get the "White D" cultivar. Still rather hard to find. Only 2 nurseries sell this cultivar. Others are smaller and such. Taste is sort of like a pineapple.

Hey Dartha, I should have said regular watering. When I watered by hand, the strawberries came out deformed. Other fruits like tomatoes will crack with irregular watering, but strawberries get all lumpy and weird. Since then, I either use a drip system on a timer or a capillary mat that wicks water from the bottom. The cap mat works really well for strawberries since they can be in small containers -- 1 plant per 1 gallon container. I have mine in fabric Root Pouches, though normal pots would work fine as well.

Ok Thanks Jay

Jay,

From a cost and productivity standpoint, are the 1 gallon pots sufficient? I think 2 gallon pots could improve productivity and health, but are also more expensive. From your experience which is the better balance 1 vs 2 gallon pots? Especially since I hear strawberry plants only have a lifetime of 3 years before they start to decline. I'm looking to grow Albion also.