Ask the person you got the manure from. Some horse owners add lime to keep it from smelling. And then if it's been composted (did you turn the pile?) it should be near neutral.

Do you have a free testing lab nearby that can test some soil samples from your beds? I wouldn't just add lime (or anything) without testing your soil.

Agree that if it has been sitting for 6 months it should be fairly neutral, especially with all the bedding mixed in.

You'll likely have more potential problems from all the composted manure not being tilled in at least 30 days prior to planting than you will from any effect it has on the soil pH. Make sure any low-growing crop harvest in the next 30 days is well washed before eating.

Dave

Corn no problem (up high and you generally don't eat it raw), pumpkins and watermelon take more than 100 days to mature. NOP says 120 for raw manure, this may not have been properly composted (just "aged") but as long as you wash them well as Dave said it should be OK. Just don't apply any more, and I'd mulch on top of that manure with a thick layer of straw for the fruit to sit on.

You don't have greens growing in the manured beds, do you?

He just has a small barn with 3 horses and doesn't add lime. Pile wasn't turned at all but is definitely more than 6 months old. No low growning food will be near it - corn is up high, pumpkins and watermelon will vine out over the lawn, not within the bed. Good to know it should be okay without the added lime... These were last minute beds, sod was ripped up and manure was tilled in just last week... They are really just a trial as I half expect the racoons and deer to interfere anyway.

I've planted directly into composted manure many times with no problem.
You caN use a pool PH test strip to get a rough idea of pH.

I've planted directly into composted manure many times with no problem.

Yes you have mentioned doing that several times before. But as has been pointed out in the past discussions, numerous university studies have proven that it is never recommended to do so.

It is not a question of nutrient burn but one of pathogen activity and the exposure of the plants to those pathogens. This is especially true when dealing with low-growing/ground contact crops. That is why the tilling in and the 30-60 day waiting period prior to planting is recommended.

Of course one always has the choice of ignoring the recommendations at their own risk. When you know the source of the manure, how it was composted (active or inactive), and the health of the animal sources it's one thing. But with unknown sources and history it isn't worth the risk since those pathogens are well-proven to survive for over a year in the composted manures.

Dave