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kathleeen_gw

initial raised bed soil

17 years ago

We have just cleared a wild wooded area of douglas fir trees/viney maples/blackberry bushes/ferns/salal/etc for a raised bed veggie garden. We were planning on having soil/compost delivered to fill the beds. It just dawned on me that we might be able to use the existing soil which is beneath a layer of moss/decayed leaves/decayed wood/fir needles/etc......I'm wondering if we can mix the soil with the top layer of organic decayed material and use that to fill our raised beds. Seems like the perfect stuff and free! What are the chances that my veggies will do just fine without getting this homemade mixture tested?

thanks

Comments (7)

  • 17 years ago

    g'day kathleen,

    i would simply add the new medium on top, just thinking but you say moss for me moss usually says the soil ph is on the acid side, for growing vegetables you need a neutral ph. might be worth a soil ph test?

    you can check out how we do our raised beds on our site.

    len

    Here is a link that might be useful: lens garden page

  • 17 years ago

    Thanks for the quick response, len. I have been reading that douglas fir needles create an acid soil, so I guess an acid test would be appropriate if we decide to use the existing earth. My husband has access to litmus paper at his place of work. Could we make a slurry of soil/decayed topping/water to test the pH? Kathleen

  • 17 years ago

    Get a test done by your local college or extension agent. Litmus paper will tell you whether the soil is acid or alkaline (basic)but little beyond that unless you have some extensive experience in lab procedures. It is just atoo simplistic approach.

  • 17 years ago

    You could do either and it will work. If you send a baggy full of dirt here http://www.al-labs-west.com/sections/anservices they will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about your dirt for $33.00

    Here is a link that might be useful: Start a growers diary here

  • 17 years ago

    I've used a combination of compost and screened top soil for many years with great success. I get compost from the state of MD which composts the leaves they collect (LeafGro) but any compost should work. Make sure the top soil is real top soil and not just dirt. I usually add BumperCrop a product from Master Nursery which adds composted shells and manures.

  • 17 years ago

    The stuff built up under the trees and between the berries
    over the years are garden gold. First off, you will have to dig out all the three roots and the berrie.
    Then just turn the soil over (by showelling or tiller) before buying compost. If you have more rotted, brown leaves around add as much as you can and till once more.
    Now add your purchased compost and topsoil over the patch , level it, till it the third time and construct the walls around the bed.

    While tilling first an the second time/ You are going to get a lot of roots, lims, some rocks, etc.
    Take them out as much as possible. I would even get rid of pine cones that are hard.

    Your overall soil depth should be around 16".
    If your soil ph turned out to be low (less than 6 ) sprinkle some pulverized garden lime before each tilling.
    and let it sit for as long as possible. Do not fertilize when adding lime.

    Plant your vegetable using a mixture of screen compost, top soil and some peat moss.This is just for the plants root to get started, as if they are in a pot.
    Fertilize your plant when they are well rooted.
    The best time to add lime to garden (if too acidic) is in the fall or very early spring. It take a long time for the lime to react and nutralize the acidity of soil. It cannot happen overnight. It has to be done gradually over a span of couple of years. That is why It will take at least couple of season to get your garden soil cooking. In the fall add as much chopped leaves (chopped by mower) as you can get and till the garden. You will need lots of earthworms in your patch to convert all those chopped leaves into soil (worm casting).

  • 17 years ago

    After site selection, soil test should be the very next step. With the litmus paper it is only a guess and only to the Ph. If you skip the test, then have problems later, it WILL be just another guess. Get a baseline now, so you know what you are working with.