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Non-Foliar Feeding

19 years ago

Here are some "field observations" of my tomato plants that were planted exactly 5 weeks ago, from seedlings that were all in the range of 3-4" above ground after planting.

This is not a pure controlled experiment because I am not testing any hypothesis, just growing the plants under natural outdoor conditions, and the plants have already been started 5 weeks ago. My only goal has been to get tomatoes as big and healthy as possible.

I am using the Non-Foliar Feeding method. The plants are side dressed with dry granular fertilizers every 2 weeks alternating between Cockadoodle DOO 5-3-4 organic fertilizer, and Espoma Garden-tone 4-6-6 which is 85% organic ingredients, a handful spread in a 3-4" circle around the root zone of each plant according to label directions. So I am making no effort to either under- or over-fertilize the plants. Since these are slow release organic fertilizers I assume the plants are being fed to saturation levels of whatever leeches into the soil.

Watering is drip irrigation by soaker hoses timed to 20 minutes ON every 6 hours. No water or fertilizer touches the foliage during clear days. Rain water but no fertilizer touches the foliage on rainy days. Plants are mulches and are French pruned removing all lower leaves, to avoid splashback. Therefore the fertilization is assumed to be purely non-foliar.

Local weather conditions have been a mixture of sunny and rainy days with rain every couple of days for the past 5 weeks.

In the photos that follow, all height measurements are vertical measurements taken from the base of the plant to where the highest point of foliage crosses the measuring tape. Howeve, the plants are actually being grown at an angle, since I am growing them towards a central trellis. The plants are about a foot away from the trellis and many of the plants the top foliage it touching the trellis. Therefore the actual length of each plant is greater than the measurements indicate.

Width is measured from leaf tip to tip at the widest point of the foliage.

Leaf width is measured from the stem of the plant to the tip of the leaf. In those cases I selected a nice big healthy leaf to show off.

Photgraphs were taken in my garden this evening from 8-8:15 PM eastern daylight time.

For purpose of comparison here is what a row of tomatoes looked like on May 24, 15 days after planting

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Here is what they looked like at 8:15 this evening 5 weeks after planting

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Beefmaster 1 25" wide

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Beefmaster 1 leaf 12" long

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Beefmaster 1 24" tall

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Beefmaster 2 25" tall

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Beefmaster 2 29" wide

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Belgium Giant 1 23" tall

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Belgium Giant 2 25" wide

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Belgium Giant Blossoms

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Azoychka 21.3" tall

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Azoychka leaf 11.4" long

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Azoychka blossoms

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Yellow Brandywine 1 25.5" tall

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Yellow Brandywine 1 approximately 25" wide

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Brandywine 2 23" tall

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Brandywine 2 approximately 34" wide

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Brandwine 2 width, closeup. Notice that the edge of the measuring tape touches the trellis at 33" width and the Brandwine leaf extends through the trellis.

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Brandwine 2 foliage

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Comments (5)

  • 19 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    These are very nice plants. very nice.
    But wouldnt rain count as Foliar Feeding?
    I know Ya got some rain, didnt ya? GG?

  • 19 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    BG,

    Rain contains only a very small amount of nitrogen, so it doesn't count as foliar feeding.

    MM

  • 19 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Nice pictures! But I think you are too focused on one parameter- length. I can think of many more valuable measurements that you might consider. Yield is the bottom line but for that, just like your other measurements, you will need to compare Brandywine with Brandywine.

    To examine benefits of fertilizers it really becomes meaningful to establish a baseline. What is you soil pH and fertility status to begin with. You should also try to measure how much of the nutrients are taken up by the plants which in research usually involves ripping up the plants, weighing and then chopping up the plant so a representative sample can be obtained. A simpler, non-destructive, method would be to have a plant tissue (leaf) analysis done.

    Your tape measure data will tell you a little and won't cost much but in the end I doubt that it will be very meaningful.

  • 19 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    You gotta be one happy camper. Those plants are incredible.

  • 19 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    bmoser it is too soon to measure yield yet here in southern New Hampshire. I am just getting first set of blossoms opened and second tier forming. Most people planted their tomatoes two weeks ago on Memorial Day weekend and we usually do not get tomatoes until August. All the varieties planted are mid-season types. I would not know what else to measure at this point but I am open to suggestions. I can measure length and I can count objects like blossoms and fruit, and I can measure and weigh tomatoes when I harvest them. Not going to be ripping up any plants though until the end of the season. I've not done a pH test I guess I could try that, that is a good idea.

    At this point I am assuming that water is not a limiting factor and fertilizer is not a limiting factor. I assume the plants get enough calcium because the Cockadoodle DOO is 9% calcium by weight.

    I suppose next year I grow one of each variety in a different raised bed that gets no fertilizer at all, while the other beds get the non-foliar feeding of granular fertilizer. That would be interesting.