Software
Houzz Logo Print
annabro

Cabbage plants and Stable Manure

14 years ago

Do these go together?

Of course it is (very) well rotted (over a year).

But I seem to remember re4ading that cabbage family plants don't like acidity.

So can I dig this fabulous stuff inot the soil where I intend to transplant my kale and broccoli plants or is it better to use pelleted manure or maybe another regime altogether?

Thanks.

Comments (4)

  • 14 years ago

    IF I was very sure that it had been well composted - meaning hot composted not cold stockpiled - that it came from only healthy animals (no meds) and that it contained no fresh or relatively fresh in it then I might use it as you plan. But that is a really BIG IF. :) Even then I would till it in deeply.

    As a general rule using manure of any kind or age around low growing leafy greens that may have direct contact with the soil is not recommended closer than 60 days between putting on the manure and planting. Some sources say 90 days. The reason is the lifespan of any bacteria or other pathogens it may contain can exceed 6-9 months (per studies at UC Davis) even with hot composting and even longer with cold stockpiling.

    Tall plants with no direct soil contact of the edible parts - no problem.

    So your choice. I'm a firm believer in the benefits of manured compost in the garden but I make my own so I can control the ingredients and I only apply it no closer than 60 days prior to planting and/or 120 prior to harvesting.

    If you can't be sure of the safety then its best to use it in another part of the garden where more time will pass between application and planting.

    JMO

    Dave

  • 14 years ago

    thanks

    Are the pathogens you mention harmful to the plant or harmful to the consumer?
    If you mean harmful to the consumer , then the only consumer is myself and my partner- we don't produce for the public.
    I do make an attempt to get a decent temperature in the stable manure but I have never really worried if that doesn't happen as I have never become sick from my own manure heap so far as I know.

    But maybe you also mean that there could be pathogens harmful to the plants themselves?
    As it happens ,my succcess in growing brassicas over the years has been disappointing and so I would be prepared to take a risk (not all over the garden in every area -I try not to put my eggs all in one basket) with this beautiful compost(maybe putting it a bit below ground level?)
    That said I accept that it would be a good idea to separate out the parts of the heap that have reached a good temperature and perhaps use them differently from those parts that may not have received enough attention.

  • 14 years ago

    The pathogens I referred to are human pathogens - e. coli, salmonella, listeria, protozoa cryptosporidia, campylobacter, etc. Then there is the group of antibiotics and hormones. It is the direct soil contact of the low growing vegetables that poses the contamination issues and makes good garden hygiene difficult.

    All are destroyed by effective hot composting given sufficient time but have proven survivability in stockpiled manures for as much as 18-24 months.

    Dave

  • 14 years ago

    Thanks again.

    I have assumed that those pathogens were also destroyed by cooking? (and that I may already have some immunity to their effects as a regular consumer over the years)

    And am I to take it that the plants themselves will thrive in well composted stable manure ( even when used neat if it not going to waterlog) ?

Sponsored
Mary Shipley Interiors
Average rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars34 Reviews
Columbus OH Premier Interior Designer 10x Best of Houzz