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Re: pruning young pear tree

19 years ago

In an earlier post this week:

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/fruit/msg1013070123332.html?4

Austransplant showed a photograph of a Seckel on OHFx513 and asked for comments on pruning it. I gathered that Don felt that pruning should be deferred a year, but I'm not sure what he meant, and would like more discussion of it.

It was my thought, on seeing the photograph, that all of the large spreading branches could be headed back 1/3 or so this dormant season, in the hope of stimulating some of the lower branches. I also thought that those lower branches, which are just a few leaves right now, could be thinned to three or four well-placed ones. The goal is a vase, as Austransplant said.

But, I get muddled on this subject, and have to struggle through it sometimes. Is my idea on the right track but the wrong year, the right track the right year, or just the wrong idea?!

Comments and advice are most welcome Thanks in advance.

Good luck,

Mark

Comments (4)

  • 19 years ago

    Mark:

    The limb-spreading suggestion I made on Austransplant's pear tree was not only to begin to establish the tree's framework, but to reduce apical dominance, or the tendency to grow upward. Branches pulled or pushed down closer to horizontal will usually slow their growth. It is common to find 3 or more central vertical branches on young pear and apple trees, but pruning each of them back will usually result in a flush of new grow at each of the pruning sites the following season, and is unlikely to stimulate lower branching. If you want to select one as your central leader, and grow the tree in that style, then you would completely remove all but one, leaving that one alone in the hope it would grow laterals as it continues its upward growth.

    In the case of Austransplant's tree, I think he/she has perfectly good branches there that could form the basis for a nice, vase-shaped scaffold. I do not underestimate the difficulty of bending those branches down and holding them there in the right position, but it can be done with a little work and imagination. The ideal angle for the branches of a vase-formed tree is 60 degrees or more, but this does not have to be achieved all at once. For now, I would try for 40 or 45 degrees, depending on the flexibility of the branches, then follow with more bending next spring. Once the bends are set, they will not change. The vertical branches on Austransplant's tree originate at about the right height for a vase tree, and there would be no need to try to stimulate branching further down the trunk. Once the existing branches are spread and apical dominance defeated, the tree is unlikely to grow in more central vertical branches.

    I think this procedure would result in more precocious fruiting, and a lower, spreading tree, which is certainly easier to maintain in all its requirements.

    Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

  • 19 years ago

    Thank you, Don. That makes it much clearer and I appreciate it very much.

    One statement gives me something to chew on in particular, ("Once the existing branches are spread and apical dominance defeated, the tree is unlikely to grow in more central vertical branches.") but I'll take that up in another post some other time.

    Thanks again,

    Mark

  • 19 years ago

    Don and Mark,

    From what I've read and experienced on my apple tree, heading off branches will tend to stiffen them and make them harder to bend later on. So it seems that, since a vase shaped tree would be fine for me, the best course for me is to bend the branches down as much as possible and not worry about doing any pruning. In fact, they are still reasonably flexible, and I think could be attached to weights or stakes now unless there is some good reason to wait until spring to do so.

  • 19 years ago

    Keep in mind that a dormant branch is more brittle and easier to break while spreading than a actively growing branch. Al