Well from a "former" newbie to another (I've had my pond running since October), you sound a lot like me. Just remember, this will be your first full year, so you are allowed time to live and learn; so take it easy on yourself.

This forum is a great source for information. I started by researching (I must of checked-out 10 books on ponds from the library) (Good book & online: Ponder's Bible)and working all aspects out in my head and on paper.

It sounds that you bought into with a nice set-up regarding your pond. First thing I'd do is figure out (close as I could) just how big the pond is. You need to know this in case you need to apply materials/ items (AKA chemicals) to balance your pond. Think of your pond as an aquarium on steroids. My opinion: Do your best to stay away from using chemicals; Only as a last measure.

Second, get a test kit (there are simple test strips that test 5 factors per strip). Test frequently at first to get a base result, then when needed (you will start to "feel" things aren't just right as you learn// observe your pond).

Third, get a working knowledge of the the life of algae. You will learn that not all algae is bad for your system (see Norm Meck article - link below) and it comes down to a competition for nutrients (give it to your plants; not the single-cell ones). Your water temp. is just warm enough for string algae. When your water temp. increases, you will probably have free-floating algae (layman's term: pea-soup water). That's why we're always advised to shade our ponds. When the water reaches certain temp. levels, certain types of algae wake from their winter sleep first before the good bacteria/plants; so they are the first in line at the nutrient food-line. Usually it is: string algae/ free-floating/ water plants. My point: work to keep a balance in your water's clarity through the use of plants/ shade / good bacteria.

"Today I turned off the filter and started emptying out the tubs. The former owner said he would do that about once a month/two months. It's been less than that but when I opened up the pipe, the stuff that came out of the bottom of the tub was more sludge than dirty water. I mean, it was THICK. Should I be doing that more often?"

Generally most basic filter systems start with a mechanical component (brushes) to trap the debris and a biological (good bacteria breaks down the fish waste to plant food)component. Usually there is a drain for release of "sludge/ dirty stuff". When I open mine up, it looks real dirty and slightly smells. I use this discharge to water my ground plants (and do they benefit from it).

Again certain times of the year mean different cleaning cycles. The previous owner probably had his/her way of doing/knowing when to clean. And you will learn this process. I know it's time for me to clean my leaf basket when I see the outflow on my water wall drop off.

So take a breath, take it easy on yourself, and take heart in knowing that a lot of people have been in the same place you presently find yourself.

{{gwi:189901}}

Happy ponding,

LP

Here is a link that might be useful: Pond Water Chemistry

I agree with Loma, you've inherited what sounds to be a better than average setup. Regarding the string algae, remove what's objectionable as necessary. Other than plugging things up and being unsightly it's pretty good stuff (not that anyone really wants it). The disturbance from cleaning will cloud the water for perhaps 24 hours then it should settle back. The 'bottle cleaners' are probably brushes, they're pretty good for both mechanical and biological filtration. When you clean them, just bash them on a flat surface to knock off the bulk of the junk, maybe rinse them in the 'tubs' before you drain the tubs. The brushes are colonized with good bacteria, so you don't want to clean them thoroughly. Drain and rinse the tubs whenever the mulm accumulates in them, just as it sounds like you're doing. It'll probably be every few weeks since you are grinding up much of the fish poop with your pump and sending it straight to the brushes. Beats leaving it on the pond bottom though IMHO. Algae likes cool weather, things may get better as you go along. I like to use plants to remove nitrates, lots of them, and thereby control algae. IMHO, properly fertilized lilies add to the problem and even more plants are needed. Many of my plants are either free floating or potted in nothing but gravel, they feed entirely on the water and whats in it. But by all means, don't feel overwhelmed. I think you've got a good system that should be pretty forgiving. It'll be loads of fun to mess around with it if you're so inclined, and it will work for extended periods even if you don't.

Thanks to both of you for your kind words. It is helpful that I used to have aquariums (sans steroids ;-) ) and always wanted a pond. I think if I didn't want the pond it'd be evey easier to feel overwhelmed. For me it's definitely a journey of discovery, yes the seller gave me a quick run-through of the setup but there's nothing quite like living and learning, is there?

bbriggs, I will have to look into getting some additional plants. In the winter there was a very dense coat of a different type of algae, more mossy than threadlike, all over the pond so I didn't know if maybe that would help with absorbing some excess nutrients but it sounds like it's not enough. On the upside, there's also a UV light that's part of the system and he told me to turn it on in the spring so I did today. I hope it helps prevent the peasoup stage, I'd probably pull my hair out! :-)

Thanks to both of you again!

I would recommend that you find out what kind of bulb your UV filter takes and go buy a new one as well. They lose their effectiveness over time. I run mine 24/7, late spring - fall and find that after one season it needs to be replaced so I make that a part of my early spring pond start-up procedure.

Regarding your filters, make sure you really understand how they operate and are designed. Getting rid of the muck at the bottom, if you open the valve and it comes out easily, do that every couple of weeks until you figure out how often you really need to do it. It does make great fertilizer for your garden. If it builds up for too long, even in the filter, it can hurt your pond through the anerobic decomposition which releases H2S, AKA sewer gas, which can kill.

The first thing is a pond will take care of itself if you let it. The problem most people have is they want to do too much. Don't worry too much about the debri in the filter as it won't hurt anything as long as you don't disturb it. The anerobic bacteria won't hurt anything until you disturb it. So when you clean the bottom of the filter shut the water going to the filter off clean the bottom and rinse with pond water before putting the filter back on line. The algae in the pond I would leave alone until the water is up to about 60 degrees than you can remove it if you want. The waterfall algae can be removed anytime. Most bulbs for the UV are good for 9000 hours of use. So if the UV is properly sized you can get by replacing the bulb about every 13 months. If it is undersized than it will have to be changed more often. I would let it go and see if the water stays clear. One important thing you didn't say is how old this pond is.
Mike

Hi Mike, I think it is at least 10 if not 20 years. So, very well-established. I understand your point and do tend to agree, it seems like as long as the initial setup is adequate and nothing is really "broken" sometimes fiddling with things just makes stuff worse. There must be some type of balance.

keithw, good point about the bulb. I may have to look at that, as I don't know how old the bulb is and no way of knowing if it's even effective. I don't have green water (yet, knock on wood) but would rather not even risk it.

kalevi, that's actually a bit of what I'm scared of. The stuff coming out of that tub smells really bad. What would sewer gas smell like, and what is that gunk supposed to smell like?

Thanks everyone!