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Help! dying Phal

13 years ago

Ok, so I know lots of people would say not to wast my time, pitch it, and get a new one.

I don't want to spend any money on it, but I am trying to do what I can to save it (just for fun). It gives me something to do during the winter.

I believe my orchid has crown rot.
I un-potted it 2 days ago, cut off all dead and rotten roots, cleaned it up, and have been spraying it down every morning with plane and simple, brown bottle peroxide. I think I started treating it too late to save the leaf. It's yellowing is slowing down, but I don't expect it to stay on much longer.

I read that the peroxide thing could work and that I might get a keiki off the side. Has anyone else gone through this experience?

Thanks for your comments in advance!

Indiana.Matt
Matthew

Comments (12)

  • 13 years ago

    From my experience (years of trying to grow Phals in sub-standard conditions) I would say Its not worth the time and effort...but maybe if you had a heat pad and and a light the patient and others if you have them might recover/grow and bloom better.
    So what are the optimum conditions that people provide? probably something like the weather here today. Sunny, but not searing "Arizona Sky". Moderately humid with a nice breeze coming in off the Pacific Ocean. 26C 56% humidity.
    Sadly, it will not last and the temps down the yard in the glasshouses will be nearer 35C or higher which Phals do not like.

    Come on Phal. Experts, what are the optimum temperature ranges? It is all rather depressing when i looked up Dtps. Hsinying Maki 'Shot Gun' on the net.
    Temp range 25 to 28C. yuk! That is fine for a Phal. only glass-house not so good for this computer room. No wonder it looks sad in winter and a bit happier in summer when the temps might sometimes nudge 25C. It has never bloomed.
    How about some indoors success Phal. Stories.

  • 13 years ago

    arthurm:

    It's funny you mentioned Dtps. Hsinying Maki 'Shot Gun'. I didn't know what that was...I looked it up and found some photos. My orchid was a no id I got that had 2 plants in one pot. The other was in flower (it's doing well) but this one wasn't in flower. The photos of Dtps. Hsinying Maki 'Shot Gun' looked just like the flowers of the other orchid that was in the same pot as my dying one.

    Jan 1, 2013 temps for here in Trafalgar, Indiana USA are to be 11 F to 27 F (11.667 C to -2.7778 C).

    I have 4 Phals including the dying one. The other 3 are doing fine...all are growing new roots and one has a new leaf. I have had them all now for about 1 1/2 years. No new flowers yet, but the plants seem happy.

    I might look into getting a heating pad.

  • 13 years ago

    We probably looked at the same entry which said minimum order 10,000 plants which says it was meant for the "pot Plant" market where you sometimes find nice plants but no name.
    Mine came from an orchid nursery at a "vendor orchid show". Fingers crossed 1913 might be the year it blooms.
    Getting back to your problem, maybe continual spraying with peroxide will harm your plant. Do you have the temp and humidity readings for the area near your plant? Some growers are a whiz at bringing plants back from near death and it would be nice to hear from them.
    Current conditions in this room are 65% humidity 26.3C Temp. Think I'll bring my Doritis species back inside before the sun gets up.

  • 13 years ago

    Yes, I did read that too much peroxide can be harmful. I'll try not to be over-zealous about the peroxide. The bubbling around the infected wound was not as prolific this morning as it has been the past few days. Maybe I could start treating it every other day. The wound has dried out now and doesn't seem to be getting worse. Yesterday (after the peroxide was dry) I watered each root, being carful not to get the rest of the plant wet. I think I will continue to water the roots. With the house around 67F (19.4C) and 14% relative humidity, the roots will probably appreciate some water. Maybe I can get those roots to plump up.

    Indiana.Matt
    Matthew

    Poor little think...looks pitiful.

  • 13 years ago

    Matt,

    Understand the reasoning and appreciate the effort, but it ain't gonna happen as the single leaf looks to be a goner too. "Spagh and bag" if anything...

    In my experience phals like it a little warmer, 65 at night and mid-upper 70's days for me depending on the heat and lights running. A little warmer during the summer, but most go outside May-October and I am at natures whim.

    Good luck and stay warm...

    Bob

  • 13 years ago

    You might be able to get a basal keiki, but I fear you have killed the remaining roots with the peroxide spraying. You should stop that immediately!

    You had a chance because you had viable roots. The leaf is a gonner. You need to protect those roots.

    Your only shot is to increase your room temps. 70's if possible. Increase light (even though the leaf will fall off). Increase humidity. If you have some rooting hormone, put a little around the root base. Put the plant in some moist, small bark or sphag and warm it up (Arthurs suggestion of heating pad is a good one) -- then, forget about it! Don't look or water again until you see some signs of life which will probably be early Spring - March or so.

    You got crown rot because your temps are too low for that plant and you might have gotten some water in the crown. Phals like warmth, 60's is too low to promote growth.

    Your main thrust should be to warm the plant and forget about it.

    Jane

  • 13 years ago

    Jane:

    The leaf did fall off.
    I already stopped spraying the peroxide.
    The roots look ok for now...I've been watering them.

    I have some rooting hormone, but it's at least 10 years old. How long does it last?

    Thanks,

    Indiana.Matt
    Matthew

  • 13 years ago

    Stick the roots in a small pot with some damp spag. Keep it warm and in a bright place. Do not water until the sphag is almost dry. You could try the old rooting hormone (have no idea what the shelf life is). Dip a q-tip in the rooting powder and put a little around the root base (stem where the roots are emerging.)

    Then wait and wait. It really would be better to toss the roots and start over. I don't have the patience to do this anymore, but there was a time I did. Sometimes it worked.

    Don't spend the money on rooting hormone...just use the money to buy a new plant.

    Happy New Year,
    Jane

  • 13 years ago

    Well, my dying Phal is hanging in there for now. The roots still look ok. I didn't have any moss to rap the roots in, so I just potted it up in a fine bark mix. I hope that's ok...I put it in a large pickle jar today. I have some small holes in the lid for air venting (I use pickle jars to put bugs in also) and I put some fine gravel in the jar with a little water for humidity. The jar temp was in the 80'sF today. I sat it in the sun for a while to warm it up. It stayed very warm and humid all day. I put some rooting hormone on the orchid, we'll see what happens.

    What do you think Jane?

    Indiana.Matt
    Matthew

  • 13 years ago

    arthurm:

    I tried to ID this last year. Here is a link to my original post with the photo of the flower. Is this Dtps. Hsinying Maki 'Shot Gun'?

    Indiana.Matt
    Matthew

    Here is a link that might be useful: My original no ID post

  • 13 years ago

    arthurm:
    I tried to ID this last year. Is this Dtps. Hsinying Maki 'Shot Gun'?

    Indiana.Matt
    Matthew

  • 13 years ago

    Wow, you did a lot. I can't ID the orchid, there are too many hybrids and without a label it is truly impossible.

    I would suggest you not leave the jar in sunlight. It will heat up too much. Small bark is fine. If the jar is steaming up, you should crack the lid to let air in. Orchids need air movement or the roots will rot.

    What you are doing is similar to 'sphag and bag' which never worked for me, but might work in your case. Some have had success, so give it a try. Just don't put it in direct sunlight.

    Good luck,
    Jane

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