Yes, mainly the couches. -get rid of sticks in dining room corner -new covers on dr chairs -clock out of dining room (large art). Inexpensive large art at Kirklands) -move fruit to kitchen -candles on buffet/nice, small wine rack Are you painting buffet, desk and mirror? http://www.kirklands.com/product/Wall-Decor/Art/Canvas-Art/Hazy-Fields-Canvas-Art-Print/pc/2283/c/2293/sc/2673/175406.uts http://www.kirklands.com/product/Wall-Decor/Art/Canvas-Art/Cherry-Blossom-Canvas-Art-Print/pc/2283/c/2293/sc/2673/169477.uts

1)It does not matter when you apply the crown. 2)Whether you should match the white of the cabinets to the white in the rest of the house depends on the shade of white that it is and whether you plan on keeping your white appliances. If you are keeping your white appliances, hold the same white sample color against an appliance to see if it makes paint color look ‘grungy’. If so, it would look better to match the cabinet to the white of the appliances or paint a different color. 3)The primer should be a latex if you are going to use latex paint or an oil base if you are using an oil base paint. Primer is very important for adhesion. I’ve used Bin underneath different brands but it is usually best to stick to a primer made by the same company as the paint you are using because each brand has proprietary chemical properties and they don’t always work with one another. If you are not stripping them and are not sure of the product on them now, take out a drawer and bring it to a good paint store and ask them for their recommendation. 4)There will be more yellowing with strictly oil-based paints over time. I haven’t tried it but I’ve heard that Benjamin Moore has a latex paint now (ADVANCE) that is formulated specifically for cabinets. http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/for-your-home/the-best-paint-for-cabinetry-jobs . I’ve used other Benjamin Moore products for many years and have been very satisfied with the coverage of their products, range of sheen options, durability and colors. In my opinion, they have a superior product. 5)I prefer spraying but it takes some getting used to. To avoid runs, take the doors off and spray them flat. Let dry completely before turning. You might want to try brushing on a scrap and rolling another and spraying another to see how you feel about the result. 6)Whether or not you should top coat ADVANCE with a polyurethane would be a good question for Benjamin Moore. Other thoughts: It looks like your cabinets are Oak, which is an open grain wood. The pores will be visible after you paint. If you don’t mind, fine. But if you do mind, you will want to use a grain filler prior to priming. If you plan to do the floor before the countertops, you will end up not being able to pull the dishwasher out. I would do the floor and countertops at the same time, shimming under the dishwasher and shimming under the countertop on either side of the dishwasher to make the counter height the same; Then just touch up the visible shim under the countertop.

I have a central air unit but only because my house already had it when I bought it. I honestly have no idea why as I live in southern New Hampshire, where it doesn't get that hot very often to begin with, and my house tends to stay cool any way. It faces east and has trees and topography that result in the house not getting very much direct sun, but instead beautiful reflected light to illuminate the rooms without heating them up too much. Every room also has a remote controlled ceiling fan, and I have rough finished basement that stays cool year round, so there are plenty of ways to circulate air and keep it cool without turning on the AC. In the two years I have lived here I literally used the AC only 3x, mostly to make sure it still works. I'm pretty much of the opinion that anywhere between 60 and 80 degrees is fine for a house (cooler in the winter, warmer in the summer), and a little cooler or warmer is tolerable, although perhaps not as comfortable, so it is not often necessary to use the AC here. I grew up in New Jersey where summers were muggy and disgusting. That house got plenty of sun and would hold the heat. We never had central air, but some years used window units (one in my parents' bedroom and my dad kept one in his office, but that's it). There were always at least a couple hot spells every summer where it would be at least 90 degrees in the house at night and sleeping was miserable. It was simply too expensive for us to cool the whole house. My mom still lives there and I wish she would put in AC and use in moderately (even just cooling the rooms to the low 80s). I think AC or not, and how it is installed, is very much a factor of climate and house design. It's not necessary at all in many places, but there are certainly areas I wouldn't want to live without it.

Way to Keep Your Home Cool in Summer. https://www.newcentralairconditioner.com/ Skip the AC, Increase the Airflow. In many cities, the biggest barrier to comfort is stagnant, humid air. Air conditioners remove some humidity and get the air moving, both of which can be done without the expensive noise of cooling the entire house. Create cross-ventilation by opening windows and placing fans at both ends of your house or apartment, with one fan facing inward and one facing outward to draw the air through. If you have a basement, use a dehumidifier to draw the humidity out of the air and keep the basement cooler and more resistant to mold. That will keep the ground floor cooler and prevent the growth of unhealthy or toxic mold during those damp summer months.