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nygardener

Simple direct-seeding frame

15 years ago

For direct seeding 4-6 weeks before the soil would otherwise be warm enough (or in late fall), I'm thinking of building some very simple, free-standing, removable, stackable cold frames to lay over garden beds. The basic design I'm thinking of is: 3' x 4' frames of 2 x 8 lumber, with 8 mm triple-wall polycarbonate slotted into channels about 3/4 inch from the top.

I'd drill a few 1/4" holes near the top each of the short ends for permanent ventilation -- enough to let out any super-warm air and exclude fungus but still allow decent warming, and moderate the night air. The hope would be that this would raise air temps about 20 degrees F during the day, 10 degrees at night, and so heat the soil about 15 degrees. I'd sow the seeds, water them in, and check on the beds every week.

Crops would be: lettuce/spinach/peas/arugula when outside daytime temps are 40 degrees; carrots/beets/brassicas at 45 degrees; basil at 55. The frame would stay on for about 6 weeks from seeding.

Would this work, or do I need more sophisticated venting?

I was thinking of mounting some heating cables just under the polycarbonate, if I can get electricity out to the garden. Would that help to get an even earlier start?

I'd be using these after most of the winter snowfall had ended. But to help with snow and rain runoff, and improve the light somewhat, I could make the frames out of 2 x 8 along one side and 2 x 12 along the other, with the ends cut to slope downward. Would that be worth the extra construction and storage hassle?

Should I line the insides with reflective fabric (Foylon), paint them white, or not bother?

Comments (6)

  • 15 years ago

    Sounds like an interesting project. I wish I had your construction skills! I would love to see pictures of your project when you get it going. I'll just answer some of your questions based on my own experience.

    1. Definitely slope the sides, because wet snow, and even high winds, can pile up and easily bend or break metal frames, much less wood.
    2. I don't like the idea of permanent vent holes. During periods of cold weather, and definitely at night, those vent holes will mostly cancel out the benefits of having triple wall glazing. And during warm sunny weather, those holes will not be enough. At the very least, I would drape some row cover over the frames at night, or just manually vent during warm or sunny weather.
    3. In my experience, an air temperature gain of 15 degrees definitely does not translate to a 15 degree rise in soil temps. more than an inch or so below the surface because the soil is constantly losing heat to soil outside the frame as well as to lower layers. For example, in my greenhouse that I use like a cold frame (with row covers inside), the average daily temp. is about 15 degrees warmer than ambient in the summer (as I ventilate during the day). But the soil at 6" is only 2-3 degrees warmer than outside soil.

    4. I would go with reflective fabric on the north wall.

  • 15 years ago

    Agreed about the vent holes. The automatic vent openers would do the trick nicely, opening wide when it's warm and staying closed otherwise. Plus, they don't require any electricity and you don't need to be around to worry about opening and closing them.

  • 15 years ago

    Thanks for the thoughtful responses. I guess I was trying to minimize the construction time, complexity, and maintenance. But it makes sense that vent holes would quickly dissipate warmth when the sun goes down and might still not prevent cooking on sunny days. The sun is quite directional in early spring, another reason to slope the cover.

    Sounds like I should experiment with a few designs, including side vents and openers, but should definitely slope the cover and keep the frame (when the vents are closed) airtight.

  • 15 years ago

    Yup, it sounds like you are on the right track. Those are the same vent openers we have.

    Since the vent openers are expensive, you may want to take some simple precautions to prevent a storm from breaking them. (this has happened to us twice now)

    Strong winds can force the vents open and break them. To counteract this, you can disable the vent openers by detaching them on one end. Then use a latch or a rock or whatever to hold your frame down in the gusty winds. After losing two vent openers, we now take a few moments to disable them when a storm arrives.

    Your plan sounds great and I bet you will see a nice harvest from your cold frame. Oh and if you want more design inspiration, Fine Gardening magazine had an article about how to build a simple cold frame - it was a 2 or 3 issues ago.

  • 15 years ago

    There was an article called "An Easy-to-Build Cold Frame" in their November/December issue. I'll see if the library has a copy. The magazine has posted a video about the project.

    There are some nice ideas in soilent_green's cold frame project and in many of dan_staley's posts. I think I'll do some more reading before heading out to the lumber store.

  • 15 years ago

    I took some big pallets that some steel came on when we were building our last greenhouse, installed some scrap polycarb on top and made a frame on the bottom of the pallet out of 2x4's and runners from another pallet to give it a little more room above the ground. I put that over part of a row in the garden, and had some great early/late lettuce and spinach. I had a rather elaborate venting system. When I saw the sun was shining, I put a couple of bricks under the long side to prop it up.