To make your own attachment, just measure off whatever shredding screen you already have. Shouldn't be hard to make up if you can weld.

But wet material shredding is the downfall of just about every shredder I have tried. My Super Tomahawk (made before Troy Bilt bought out the company) came with a wet material screen that is simply some bars welded crosswise of the curved rails. Bars are about 3/8" or 1/2" in cross section. But I wasn't impressed with its performance, so I tossed all the screens, and tried a totally different arrangement: the hammers rotate between the fixed bars, rather than at right angles to them. Nothing, no matter how wet, can clog it. Of course the feed throat will clog if I try to cram too much stuff down, but I have a scheme in mind to address that issue.

I think the screens are quite a bit wider on the super T. compared to the junior, but the same principle should work, unless your machine has a completely different design. I also increased the number of hammers so there wouldn't be such wide open gaps for stuff to fall through unshredded. Its one weakness is that long skinny stuff occastionally goes through unscathed.

On a different note, since the engine was dead when I bought the machine, I put on a used 3 h.p. Baldor 220V motor that I've never been able to stall. I run that off a GFCI breaker I installed in my electrical panel, so it's not as unsafe as it might sound.

The worst wet, stringy stuff you can imagine goes right through, including corn stalks (wet and very stringy), tomato vines, and everything else. It isn't so great as a leaf shredder, though, as the leaves aren't chopped as fine as I'd like.

This post was edited by runswithscissors2010 on Sat, Oct 12, 13 at 2:08

I realize this is an older post but maybe you folks can help me out. I also do not have a wet baffle for my junior Tomahawk. I am not a welder. I wanted to confirm, 'runswithsiccors' you welded bars running parallel with the hammers which actually rotate right down in between the bars? And nrensch did you ever get around to working your machine and if so what worked. Thanks Harry

I recently purchased a Junior Tomahawk and for a home owner, this is an awesome find! It is really built to last but as many of you know, the company history hasn't left much in the way of spare parts. Some parts such as flails and a knives are being reproduced and some can be purchased off the shelf or made pretty easily. (nuts and bolts, etc.)

One word of caution: GET THE RIGHT STRENGTH BOLTS!
Mine had been made "pretty" for sale with nice shiny hardware but none of it was the proper high strength bolts and it had no lock washers. Things vibrate loose and the stresses are significant. You don't want this thing ingesting and ejecting a metal nut or bolt at a hundred miles an hour.

I found a really good picture of one of the wet baffles. I've attached it here. This one is green cuz it was pre-TroyBilt. The source dried up so I'm also very interested in making one myself. If anyone wants to share their lessons learned, I'd love to hear what you've experienced.

I'm a little leary of having the knives flying in and out of the vertical bars. I think the original design would be sure to direct anything dangerous down instead of out horizontally. I'm not sure the vertical bars would? An abundance of caution for me.

If anyone needs a "new old stock" screen with one inch holes, I know where you can get one. I am not advertising a business with that statement. I just know it took me almost two years watching craigslist and ebay to find one.