The 61 Rancher uses a 61.5 cc engine. When looking at the same brand or other brands of chainsaws, start with the models with this size engine. The saw and bar show a weight of 6.7 kg so it is also quite heavy as well as old. The Husky 359 looks like a close match.

If you buy the 359 from a servicing dealer, take the 61 Rancher in for service at the same time.

If you are getting fuel and fire the only thing left is compression. Look at the cylinder and piston to see if it is scored. I know someone is going to say fire at the right time. So I might as well beat them to it LOL. Provider you aren't getting too much fuel. Later Butch

To add to what Butch said. Remove the muffler and look at the piston.
Fish

I think the 61 like other Huskys run on a single piston ring. So loss of compression could occur faster than on 2 ring types.
It does seem like a compression problem.
The 61 is still in production, from Brazil.But I dont know if its for sale in your part of the woods
Hi Fish! Sorry I did not respond to you during the Stihl Blower post.
Joe

Make sure the muffler isn't plugged with a dirt dauber nest or some other debris. When an engine will not start for no apparent reason, always make sure the muffler is clear.

Hello again,
Thanks to everyone for all the help.I pulled the muffler and cleaned the screen in it.The piston looks excellant,and the ring is nice and tight.I don't have a compression tester but if you take the plug out and put your finger over the plug hole you can't hold it on there while you use the pull starter, it pushes your finger off with force.This tells me that I have really good compression.This saw does have cdi is there anyway that it could be like points if they get bad everything works it just won't start?
Thanks Mike

how old is the fuel mix if it is old mix a fresh batch and try that

The 359 mentioned in the previous post will not be as powerful as your 61. A closer match would be either a 570 or a 357XP. The 357XP has a smaller sized engine but actually sports more horsepower (4.4hp) and torque than the 359 (3.9hp). Weight is about 12.1 lbs (sans bar and chain) so will be lighter than the 61. The XP is a professional grade and has better internal components.

The 570 is beefier at 14.9 lbs and will be more of a match weight-wise to the 61. With a 69cc engine it packs 4.9 HP but uses standard components. The 575XP is better yet but the price goes out of my league so I won't go there.

I am replacing my 61 I've used regularly for 25 years (it still runs strong) The anti-vibe mounts gave out so I will replace those and keep it for a backup. I will purchase a new 570 or 357XP today. Haven't yet decided which.

I think you may need to replace the ignition module on your old 61. I had the same thing happen to me a few years ago and that's what worked for me. Depending on the year of your 61 the part will cost between $50 and $125 I believe. I would take it to your service and have them test it to see if that is what it is.

If I remember correctly the 61 has a two piece ignition module. I would check the wire from the trigger module to the coil for looseness and breaks. Pour a little fuel down the throat of the carb. and see if it will start them. Later Butch

OK....I ended up purchasing the 357XP with 24" bar and I love it. I have about 4 Liveoak trees down on my property and bucked up about 2 cords worth this weekend (1 tree, 2' DBH) and this saw was sweet! Powerful enough to handle the crosscuts and light enough to handle the limbing without tiring me out.

i was doing some cleaning on a 359 husky, and the metal coil came off the metal circualr device ... i can not get it back on ... how do you put it back on??? thanks.

"i was doing some cleaning on a 359 husky, and the metal coil came off the metal circualr device ... i can not get it back on ... how do you put it back on???"

What the heck are you talking about?

Do you mean the band brake slipped off the clutch housing?
Something came off the flywheel? Lotsa metal circular devices on a saw....can you give us a hint of where on the saw this happened?

I did the same thing with model 359. I forgot to release the chain brake before removing the cover to replace the chain. The cover is off but the brake is engaged & will not fit over the clutch housing. How do you release the clutch so that the brake ring will fit over the clutch housing?

You need to rotate the star wheel to release the brake and it can be a hassle. Clamp the cover in a vise, being careful not to break it, and use vise grips. Don't ask me how I know this.

Or you could just get a saw with the chain brake in the case where it belongs.

That is one issue I've always had with the husky stuff. They've never gotten the chain break beyond being an add on. It's never really seemed like the saw was designed to have one to begin with. Looks like an engineer just forgot it till the end, and then found a place to stick one as an afterthought.

I have always been able to stick the cover back on and kinda cock it to the front and engage the brake that way.

Later Butch

"That is one issue I've always had with the husky stuff. They've never gotten the chain break beyond being an add on. It's never really seemed like the saw was designed to have one to begin with. Looks like an engineer just forgot it till the end, and then found a place to stick one as an afterthought."
lunaticfringe

You obviously haven`t looked at any modern or pro huskies to make that statement.

Thanks all. I was able to get the cover back on my model 359. As kind of instructed I used an open end wrench around the star wheel & used a crescent wrench to twist the open end wrench which was around the star wheel. It popped into place easily & I was able to place the cover on as normal. As my wife says I am a man again I have my toy back!

Life is good LOL.

when i tighten the two nuts retaining the brake cover and bar on my 345 husqvarna i find that the chain seizes up in the bar runner and doesnt run freely at all .when i loosen back the nuts the chain runs freely again but as you can imagine its a v short time before chain is very slack .it seems that bar width is too narrow and when nuts get tightened they crush bar runners onto chain .any suggestions .i built saw from a basket so maybe spacer missing or what ?id apprerciate your assistance,thanks john ,scotland

I bought a Husqvarna 55 chainsaw about 4 months ago here in France where I live. Probably only used it about 10 to 15 times for around 2 hours a go so total maximum of 30 hours. It was overheating so I took it back to the shop and they said the piston and cylinder were both shot (scored to hell) and that I must have forgotten to put oil in the petrol.

But here is the thing I am 100% sure I put in oil at a 1:50 mix ratio. Initially I used a Stihl oil for the mix, then I changed to Husqvarna when I was having trouble with it running i.e. I mixed a new batch and was very careful to ensure the mix was absolutely correct.

When I looked at the spark plug to see if that was the reason for poor performance it was coked up and I had to clean it up, a sign of too much oil normally.

I absolutely know I put oil in the mix but I am now faced with a very expensive repair bill on a virtually brand new machine. The supplier has refused to honor the guarantee because they say it is my fault and I know it isn't but can't prove it.

Anyone know of similar problems with a 55 or have any suggestions. Was the Stihl oil the problem maybe, I am gutted because life ain't cheap at the moment.

I bought a Model 61 at auction. It doesn't appear to have a spark. Is there any way to test the ignition system to see what needs repairing / replacing?

Bring the Ignition Module to Your Local Delaer , they normally will bench load test unit for free and since they will supply the New Unit it's a Win / Win Situation .

Bring the Ignition Module to Your Local Delaer , they normally will bench load test unit for free and since they will supply the New Unit it's a Win / Win Situation .

I have a Husky 136 with less than 40 hours since I bought it new at the dealer. The other day, I was cutting and the saw started cuttiing out. The next day, it started right up, then started the cutting out again. After restarting the saw 5 or 6 times and not even getting half way thru a 1' diameter log,it gave out. I pulled the plug. No fire whatsoever. Do these have a piece o' crap eletronic ignition or points? I restore vintage 2 stroke motorcycle motors from the 1940-60's. Never have an ignition problem that isn't very easy to fix and inexpensive to boot. Why the Factory thinks their CDI electronic crap is better than points/condensor (oh, I know, so they can make a killing every time the cdi box goes out.) I sorta find it hard to believe that the coil would go out with less than 40 hours on it. Could it be that the on/off switch went bad? Any way to check that with a meter? I disassembled the saw , almost completely,just to change out the fuel line (the filter fell off the original line inside the tank) What a pain in the rear. Next time that needs to be done, I will plug the original hose hole with a set screw and move the hole to a more convinient location, like on the right side of the carb, where I don't have to take off anything but the top cover.
I am amazed at the factory, for putting this hole in such a location that ya have to basically dismantle the saw to change the fuel line. (oh yeah, so the avaerage joe would just take it to an authorized dealer and PAY THEM to do something that anyone should be able to do....) Thanks for any advice someone can give to get the saw back up again.

"Anyone know of similar problems with a 55 or have any suggestions. Was the Stihl oil the problem maybe, I am gutted because life ain't cheap at the moment."

Yes: Have a Husqv 55 too and it's utter rubbish. I always keep a can of starter fluid and a well rested arm and it kinda sorta runs eventually. But it runs weakly I have to very carefully feather the throttle to avoid stalling (if it stalls I have to start the process of squirting fluid and yanking until my arm comes off). And once I get it running I never turn it off until I'm done. Because I'm just too worn out to go thru the process of trying to start it again.

It's been in the shop but no sustained improvement.

I need to throw it on Craigs List and invest the proceeds in a Poulan or something. This will be the last Husqvarna produce I will buy. Ever.

i bought a Husqvarna 235e two weeks ago. I have probably used it for a total of 2 hours trimming 2-3 trees...not very much work. How long does the chain last? it seems to me the chain is very "dull" - cutting a small 4" tree is very hard... instead of cutting through the tree branch as before, it now takes a long time and turns the tree "black" in the area where i'm cutting - either from heat or from blade oil... i don't know which.

how long does the chain last? does it sound like i just have a dull blade or something more serious? thanks in advance for any insight...

this is the first chain saw i've owned.

larry: 1st off you actually have purchased a Poulan , but at least a Poulan with Husky Recoil lol . Seriously sounds like your an occasional user so this saw probably will be a sound investment. As for the chain , from your description the chain has become dull . These units have a very small chain , which dulls very easily. A 5/32" file is required for sharpening. Sharpening is not very difficult for a mechanically inclined individual. On the chain you will see reference marks (angle) This is the proper degree of cut for that chain. Next important issue is the depth of cut that is req'd to ensure all teeth cut the same amount of wood. I don't know if you have a depth guage but you will require one to see if all are at the same height. I would suggest you purchase a second (spare) chain and try it . Then you can compare the two also . You can go on the Husky or Stihl Sites or U-tube and see numerous chain saw filing info . Take care and ensure to wear your Hearing Protection and Eye Protection. Chaps are also a good investment even for a once a yr user .

larry : Further to my last note since I have a little more time to explain the sharpening basics . 1st as I stated your new 235e has a very small chain , just a slight amount of dirt or stone remaining on the bark of a tree your cutting will in short time (few cuts) dull your cutters. The chainsaw if purchased from a Box Store may have been damage (chain) during storage or shipping , even not properly sharpened from the Poulan Manufacturing Plant . Anyways as I indicated if you proceed with the proper round file and may a few passs on each tooth in a forward direction , being careful to lift the file upon the return stroke you could effectively resharpen your chain. You will have to turn the saw and then proceed on the reverse side of the bar. I find it helpful to use a black sharpee to colour the 1st tooth to avoid duplicate resharpening. Next the Chisel Points will require dressing with a flat single cut small file , you should already have both the round and the flat . Last you will requires as recommended previously a Depth Cutter Gauge to ensure a depth gauges (behind the Cutting Edge) rounded top are of the same level . If not a straight edge set on top of two or three simultaneously will show any out of spec cutters . You should have all at the same height , if not use the flat file to lower any high ones . If your chain was new your job should be rather non eventful . Get another Replacement Chain , since it will benefit you in more ways then just a spare , rather a template of what you should have . All the Best and check out the Internet there are lots of great Sharpening Sites !

larry: The following site is very accurate and informative within chain saw chain sharpening 101. http://stillibrary.com

I have a Husqvarna 335e the tension bar won't release what can I do?

I have a husqvarna 61 and was wondering how to tell how old it is ? Also I've looked for a cylinder and piston upgrade I've heard a 272xp will interchange ?

r
Mark: If your 61 has a Black Top it could be as new as Mid to late 80's . The White Top Models Models were introduced back in 1978 . You Prosumer Saw has 61.3 cc with a Bore of 48 mm and Stroke of 34 mm . The Husky 272 XP is a 72 cc Pro Saw with a Bore of 52 mm and Similar 34 mm Stroke . You could upgrade you Saw to a 272 XP Spec's if the Bottom end will handle it . You will have to check Radial and Thrust end play on the crank with a Dial Indicator to see what you bearing conditions are at prior to investing into a Rebuild in my Opinion . I would suggest you become a Arborist Site Reader and check out the opinions of either Jerry or Rennie for their Opinions . They routinely rebuild Huskys . I have ported and tuned numerous Old Stihl and Pioneers , but it been yrs since I upgraded any Husky units of your Vintage . It is a very capable saw , as your probably are aware . Expect to pay around 150 - $250 for your upgrade . If you go back to stock you would be in the $100.00 saving area . Numerous Slightly been used parts via the Arborist also . Good Luck Dude and let us know your decision...E :)

My Husqvarna chainsaw is becomming air locked and I have to open the gas tank to let air in and then it will run some more, I have to keep doing this. Do you have and ideas how to fix this?

There is likely some type of vent system on your tank that is not working. You'll have to find out how it works on your particular saw and proceed from there.

I have a 350 Husq...that is probably 5 or 6 years old with about 2hrs running time. In my estimation it is a piece of crap. I can only get it to start once in a blue moon. I can't believe I paid over $300 for it and it's not worth fiddling with. It doesn't seem to fire regularly. Any advice?

G: Are you getting good blue spark ? Is the Plug wet ? If your 1st answer is No then check plug , plug wire then ignition module . If second answer No then check fuel filter , fuel lines for obstruction and then carb internal fuel circuits via inspection and use of concentrated carb cleaner and compressed air .
Note : If you can prime your saw with carb spray down the venturi and it starts briefly fuel starvation is the key.
On further thought it is possible to have sporadic hard starting due to a on/off switch beginning to go south . Anyhow pull your plug and ground it against the head and pull the saw over to determine if it is firing . To troubleshoot the ignition switch or ignition module you will require a multi meter and some electrical experience . If not seek a Dealer . Hopefully it may be something less expensive eg: bad plug or fouled carb ..let us know how your fair .

how do i brake down to change the fuel lines

My saw is the 357 XP that I can't seem to be able to start.

I seem to find a lot of gasoline leaking from engine and found lots in the muffler i took it apart but can't seem to find the leak. I'm thinking the excess gas is there because it as not been burn while cranking. I'm leaning toward ignition coil fault for the none start.

Please help

A acquaintance and I both bought huakys we couldn't get his started and mine started good and worked for a wile but finally would not start warm. I did more fiddling and trying to start the machine than it was worth. I went totally by the manual. This machine makes you start the engine with the brake on, works good on a totally cold engine. I got the job done but starting the saw was the hardest part of the job.PS I brought the tree down in sections from the top by climbing 55ft. Huskies may have been a good product in the past but these 2 are going back to vendor.

Ben: You will have to determine if you have a good Blue Spark at the plug electrode. If not a new plug or plug wire or even the On Switch could be the problem. No fire , No Combustion only a cylinder and eventually muffler full of fuel. Also if you have spark you may also have a fouled carb inlet needle which is causing the flood condition. Your 357 XP is an excellent unit . How long have you had it . If your saw is older you may have a worse case scenerio of a igniton module that has failed causing the no spark issues , you will have to determine through the process of elimination.

I have Husqvarna 235E that doesn't seem to oil right. With a new chain it cuts a few logs. After each sharpening of cuts fewer. I have sharpened other saws without problems. I keep thinking the oil is sparse so after trying everything else, I removed the oil pump. There is supposed to be some kind of nozzle on the end of the oil pickup tube that goes into the oil tank. When I pulled the oil pickup tube no nozzle was there. I don't know if it is missing or came off in the rubber lined hole. I can't see it. Any idea how I can determine if the nozzle is in there and whether or not a missing oil pickup nozzle would cause my chain problems. The saw is a reconditioned one.

I have Husqvarna 235E that doesn't seem to oil right. With a new chain it cuts a few logs. After each sharpening of cuts fewer. I have sharpened other saws without problems. I keep thinking the oil is sparse so after trying everything else, I removed the oil pump. There is supposed to be some kind of nozzle on the end of the oil pickup tube that goes into the oil tank. When I pulled the oil pickup tube no nozzle was there. I don't know if it is missing or came off in the rubber lined hole. I can't see it. Any idea how I can determine if the nozzle is in there and whether or not a missing oil pickup nozzle would cause my chain problems. The saw is a reconditioned one.

Sorry Dude can't be bothered assisting on this Old Thread , previous info has been provided and the OP did not even have the balls to supply follow up . Start a new Thread if you need assistance.

Hello, I'm having a problem with my husky 357xp. The engine is flooding and the gas tank is becoming pressurized. it will not run at all at this point and continues to flood excessively. Any help would be appreciated. thanks!

I have problem with Husqvarna 61.Does it have a RPM limiter,and if so, can it be reset,or does it reset automatically?
I was adjusting the carb mixture,high side, and it quit and will not re start.I may have over revved it too long during adjustment. No fire to plug.Tried new coil,still no fire.Wire to kill switch is good,not skinned or broken.Even tried it with switch disconnected.
Shear pin is good.Gap on magneto is spec.
Any ideas?Suggestions?
Thanks in advance for all help on this matter.

I have a husqvarna 235 the thing runs hood but loses power in the cut. I bought a new carburetor. Put it on same thing. I heard the 235 has a cat. Converter in the muffler and it gets stopped up. I took off the muffler and it was gunned so bad . I cleaned it with carburetor cleaner and put it back on. It cut good for a days cutting. Then stopped again.I tried to order a replacement carburetor and the husqvarna company had discontinued the235 and they had a different muffler to replace the old one. Will this NEW muffler fix the problem or not? What do I do?