where are these trees???

if they are in your lawn ... do you fert your lawn?

i would suggest that they do NOT need any further fertilizer ... if you are fert'ing your lawn

and if you mulch your lawn clippings... i question the need for further fungi ...

and unless there is a known problem to fix.. i would suggest that all chemicals be avoided ...

i would question all of this.. and would also question whatever other info he gave you .. since you say he came for other reasons ...

get at least 3 local opinions .. and ours.. before you make any decisions

good luck

ken

The main problem this tree has it that it has lost half(!) of its roots. This is an excellent way to kill a tree, by throwing it out of balance both in terms of physiology and physical anchoring. No amount of fertilizer or pesticides will compensate for this. If you have this party out again, ask them how, specifically, the fertilizer is going to enable the tree to replace half of its roots in a short period of time. Has the soil there or the leaves of the tree been tested and found to be deficient in nutrients? If the tree needs fertilizer, it will certainly help it to be given an effective application (or several). But if it's now going to go into a decline from losing half its roots (a definite possibility) or blow over in a storm, fertilizer will not save it.

And ask him by what specific means is an application of the recommended pesticide product at this time going to produce a benefit. You want to be hearing about a particular pest being present or certain to appear on your tree, and how a preventative strike is the preferred method.

Here spray services have a history of selling by-the-calendar, routine, blanket pesticide applications. Would anyone go in and have heart surgery every year, because it was the first of March? Pesticide applications should always be made only in response to a specific set of circumstances that demands that they be used, in preference to all other approaches.

Thanks guys. :)

Ken, I'm sorry for being presumptuous about the familiarity of my problems - I posted quite a bit in another thread about these trees. I haven't fertilized anything, we just moved in in November. Previous homeowner didn't mulch clippings and had them taken away. The Pin Oak is sandwiched between a driveway and a brick path so there's not much else growing there. As far as getting opinions goes... that's what I'm doing. :D

Bboy, I went by their office tonight and told them to just do the pruning and removal of some privet and arborvitae that are blocking corner/driveway views for now. Your comments make a lot of sense - which is why I questioned them in the first place as far as what is being treated. I did get the - apply yearly in spring thing. None of the trees they want to treat are showing signs of pests. They are a Youngii weeping birch, an American Holly (non fruiting) and the Pin Oak.

So what I'm reading here is if we're trying to give that Pin Oak a shot in the arm to make up for the loss of roots - that none of these applications, not even the fungii, are going to help?

Ok... Saving myself some time and money here. Thanks. :)

Just ask them to spell out what the treatments they are offering are supposed to do. What you want to hear, in each instance, is by what mechanism or process will the treatment assist this particular tree.

Like others of the same species Young's weeping birch is an aphid magnet in my mild winter climate. If you have the same problem there a dormant spray applied to kill overwintering sucking pests (such as aphids) could be quite worthwhile. Here European birches and Norway maples often get so much honeydew (sugar secretions) on them during hot, dry summer weather they look oiled.

you said: Ken, I'm sorry for being presumptuous

i have no idea why you are apologizing .. and i was just trying to help ... so if you are sensing something between the lines.. note my typing style.. and be sure ... that there is nothing between the lines.. lol

think of trees on a continuum .. reaching for a century or two .. and understand.. that there really isnt much you need to do for them ...

they have a multitude of defenses .. and really dont need our help ...

and finally .... think of a tree as twice as big below ground as above ground [perhaps an exaggeration ]... and give me odds on someones actual ability to put a product where a feeder root is ... not those big roots near the trunk .. i mean the feeding tips.. that are most likely half way across the street or the neighbors lawn ...

the tree may fail due to the root damage.. so be it .. and that may be.. in the 2 century continuum ... NOT in your lifetime .... if and when it does .... use the money to remove it .. rather than using it on foo foo applications [read that profit making for the seller] ...

in my world .... spend once.. dont spend once on questionable fixes.. and again.. when it fails anyway ...

have a great day ..

ken

PS: if it is close to the house... and the roots taken off are away from the house.. and the prevailing winds are toward the house ... i would remove if there is a chance it can fall onto the house ... oak is great firewood and great woodchip mulch ... this spring might be the time to plant a replacement or two ... so that in 5 years.. if it has to be removed.. you have a leg up on a new one ...

Roots on fully developed trees are usually bigger than tops, actually. The syndrome associated with excessive drastic removal of parts of mature trees is a decline due to the tree's energy budget being thrown out of balance. It's like the sinking of the Titanic, it's slow but the thing may still go down in a comparatively short time.