Root washing or essentially bare rooting the tree can be done before planting at any time of the year and does not pertain exclusively to B&B stock - containerized trees will benefit from this practice just as well.

If you've done the research, then you'll realize this is a technique that should be approached with some care -- a gentle sluicing off of the clay or soil, not the use of high pressure hose to blast it off :-) Some of the feeder roots are destroyed or damaged with this process but it acts much the same as root pruning does by encouraging the growth of new roots. Trees just emerging from dormancy or in active growth will develop a replacement root system faster than those still firmly in their dormant state.

i would hesitate to do it with a leafed out tree ...

the process is so much more forgiving when the insult to the root system will not involve trying to maintain the leaves ... i usually sum up this thought by stating: TIMING IS EVERYTHING .... and that means we do these things when the plant is dormant ...

if its a small BB .. pot it until it loses its leaves in fall [put some soil in the pot.. insert BB and pack in some more soil] ... and do the deed then ... try to set the pot where the tree is in a lot of light.. BUT THE POT ITSELF IS NEVER IN THE SUN... consider even sinking the pot and all ... to let mother earth temper it for the summer ...

i cant understand where you are in the continuum from your facts .... are we just searching for knowledge .. or is the tree sitting in your yard???

ken

As stated, you can do it with any tree at any time, if done with care. I have bare rooted Japanese maples in midsummer before planting. It is really no different from any other planting process......just taking an extra - and very beneficial - step or two.

i am sure that gal.. can get away with things that not every newbie can ... i do not know where OP is in that spectrum ...

she might set aside PROPER TIMING.. but fully understands all the following:

PROPER planting
PROPER mulching
PROPER watering
PROPER drainage ...

and every other variable .. like setting up a shade screen to keep it out of the sun for the first few weeks ...

i said.. i thought rather clearly .... that my thoughts were based on the MOST FORGIVING time of year to do it ...

if you like vegas .. go for it ... roll the dice ..

whatever makes you happy.. is fine with me.. live ... learn ... and experiment ... i learned most through failing ...

good luck

ken

PS: anyone one know proper planting time for z7 SC for bare root stock ???? .. my gut tells me it was weeks ago .. if not a month or two ago ???

It is one thing to bare-root a maple in the cool Pacific Northwest, it is quite another to do it in the heat of the southeast. I would never do that to a tree that has already leafed-out down here. Give it i try if you want, but don't be surprised if it dies.

The only time I bare-root trees that are actively growing is when I have shipped them and I am able to get them into a mist-bench for a while until they recover.

Sorry for the late reply. For some reason, the replies did not show up in my e-mail acct. even though I checked the box. Thanks for all the info.

I lost my Prunus subhirtella 'Autumnalis' Monday night.
During a thunderstorm we had a straight line wind of over 70 mph and it destroyed the tree.

Tonight, my husband used the tractor to remove what was left of the tree.

I bought a B&B Prunus serrulata 'Kanzan'. to replace it.
The root ball is about 1.5 to 2 feet wide and tall.

The Prunus subhirtella 'Autumnalis' was very special to me and I knew I wanted another cherry. I love the blooms on the
Prunus serrulata 'Kanzan'. We had one at our last house and enjoyed it immensely.

As far as my gardening skill, I feel comfortable doing whatever is necessary to give my new tree a good start.
Gardening has been my passion for over twenty years.

Ken,
it is funny you mentioned the Vegas analogy.Before I bought the tree, that is exactly how I explained it to my husband. It is worth the gamble to me. It was reasonably priced and I thought what do I have to lose?

I've had several trees planted with intact field soil root-balls malinger and die afterward. Trees planted with the soil washed off, no failures come readily to mind.

Arguments with or modified versions of modern planting and plant handling methods such as this are based in not knowing the subject well.

It's worthy to note that those that are advocating bare-rooting an leafed out tree are in the NW US. Those of us in the SE US, and Ken in the Great Frozen north (just playing Ken) view it as a death sentence to the tree. The tree would simply not have time to recover before summer. I have some established trees having issue due to dry air and high winds.

Arktrees

When I plant containerized stock I fluff up the edges of the "rootball" to try to get some pointed outwards.

Trees are all about percentages. 99% of properly cared for properly sited transplants live, sometimes one dies. But heck, one day my wife just demanded a crepe myrtle. I didnt care much so i let her buy it.

IN JULY!

Somehow the warm weather fella survived transplant. Wonder how many of a hundred go through that and live.

fluffing up the edges of a containerized "rootball" is very different than bare rooting and balled and burlap tree that is leafed out and actively growing which is what this thread was originally about. I once planted a containerized Sugar Maple as you indicated in June, and got away with it (with allot of leaf burn). But that isn't a bare rooted leafed out tree.

Arktrees

If you read the research on root washing, you will find that the success of this technique is not limited to the PNW but can be practiced across the country. And the field trials that document the benefit of this practice included not only dormant trees but trees in full leaf in 95F July weather in Virginia Beach, VA. The trials clearly document that the success of this method is NOT dependant only on using dormant material and does NOT depend on location. (btw, these were not tiny little seedling trees but 3.5-4" caliper, well-developed trees).

For all those that say "it can't be done", it might make some sense to review the research - it most certainly can be done, is done frequently and the trees will be better for it.

"Arguments with or modified versions of modern planting and plant handling methods such as this are based in not knowing the subject well."

I completely disagree with this statement and find it rather close-minded in nature. An unwillingness to consider alternative methods or possible problems with current methods is often counterproductive to advancement in learning and developing new ideas. Recognition of the benefits of improved methods is fine, but refusing to question what is considered correct is exactly what's gotten us in so much trouble many times in the past.

There certainly are negatives to root washing. Those negatives may be outweighed by benefits, but they still exist. Examples are:

1. Additional stress on the tree (especially when the tree is not dormant).
2. Removal of stored nutrients if roots are allowed to soak.
3. Removal of beneficial rhizosphere organisms.
4. Additional work, time, and knowledge needed to implement this technique.
5. Related problems, like disposal of original medium and possible need for additional tools and supplies.
6. Multiple serious problems if the technique is not implemented properly (dessication of roots, needless loss of root mass, etc).

Again, I'm not saying that barerooting (especially in the case of container grown woody plants) isn't a wonderful idea. But, I think it's important to recognize that it's not necessarily the best solution for every situation and that not everyone that has a question or comment is stupid.

Most of the nurseries quit selling bare-root fruit trees here in Z8 in March. Assume 1st half of April is reasonable for Z7.
If B&B is cut from in ground, the roots are theoretically already extending out radially from the trunk/tap root. And if its already in ground, would seem that it is in soil, not potting soil/media. It would seem that you gain little in that case by bare-rooting, unless the soil it was grown in was radically different from where it is going.

Scotjute,

Washing a rootball immediately before planting is totally different in many ways from conventional bare-root trees.

I agree that in many cases there is little to gain from the technique for the reasons you describe, but some of the reasons one might consider washing a fresh B&B are that the tree may have been initially grown in a container or may have been previously transplanted, and, possible difference in soil between the B&B and the planting site.

As a follow-on to the original question, does the root washing method still apply if I wish to transplant an already established tree? The soil as well as the shade / sun placement would be very different in the new location. These would be trees that have a trunk about 2-4" in diameter and have been in the ground for 5+ years.

ledgerdc,

I'm not absolutely sure what you are asking. If you are asking if root washing can be done in the situation you describe, the answer is a definite yes. If you are asking whether it should be done, the answer would depend on who you ask and (at least for most) the specifics of the situation (relative soil types, possibility of poorly developed root system, method of transplant, timing, your expertise and ability with the root-washing process, etc, etc).

Brandon -

Good questions, to which I have a couple of answers:
Relative soil types: current is sandy with a little clay; future will be mostly clay, unless I amend the soil.

Poorly dev. root system: no idea on this one. Current is fairly rocky, so there might be some compaction.

Method of transplant: Shovel to extract, trailer to transport. Nothing automated.

Timing: Late fall.

Expertise with root washing: None.

I just want to give these trees the best chance. Their current state is one of severe overcrowding, so the problem will either be solved with a shovel or a saw.

Does anyone have a favorite "how to" link for this? Thanks.

I do this with container plants, not so much B&B.

I have done this with trees that were in bud-swell, but the leaves hadn't really expanded yet (container, nto B&B) and had no issues. The challenge with this is if you're doing mail-order containers and live in a colder area than where the nursery is located (often the case), it's hard to "time it" right to get a tree that is still dormant, but also, at a time when you can plant in YOUR area if you are choosing to "wash" roots.

Locally purchased is much easier in this regard, and of course B&B is always local.

Here's an issue I could see with this...if you have heavy, "cloddy" clay, if you bare the roots you might find it difficult to get the soil to properly fill in around the roots, as the soil isn't all that friable.

I usually "rootwash" small container stock (band pot to 1 gal size, sometimes up to #5) if I am planting during the dormant season - esp. early spring. I'll also do it in fall even if there are still leaves, as long as the weather is cool (mid-Oct or later here) since by then the plant is essentially "ready" for dormancy, even if leaves haven't fallen just yet...slightly premature leaf loss is usually trivial in my experience.

Sometimes I avoid it if the roots are very dense and fibrous, since it's hard to fill in the soil, but for fleshy rooted plants it works well.

Larger plants it's possible, but harder without a second person there to help stabilize the tree as you fill it in.

I usually shake gently and let clumps remain - if there are a few feeder roots in a nice clump I don't necessarily take off the media if nothing appears dead, crisscrossed, or circling in that particular clump.

I find that, among other things it accomplishes the following:

1. Better contact with native soil. No "interface" issues (the small clumps of potting media notwithstanding, but they're usually small enough to not pose an issue, and in fact help prevent root dessication/damage to feeder roots).

2. Better anchorage. Once the soil settles in (which should be ASAP if you water properly) the tree is nearly as well-anchored as it would have been if grown on-site. No "ball and socket" issues that you get with both container and B&B that keeps original soil/media intact.

3. Examine and correct root deformities. Many times, circling and potentially-girdling roots can be un-circled and straighened out. Even if not, it's easier to get a good, accurate cut to remove roots that are beyond repair.

4. Less water needed. At first, this isn't so true, but with container stock, you have to water copiously until enough rootws have grown out into your native soil (which is 99% of the time far more moisture-retentive than typical container media). If you bare-root first, your native soil IS where the roots lie, so you only have to really water enough to keep the area just moist. Slightly moister than an established plant, since the plant does still have to regenerate some of the fine feeder roots and root hairs, but not as much as a container-grown plant, which has most of the roots still within the container medium for quite a while. Even compared to B&B, since more roots are usually preserved vs. B&B, you could get away with slightly less watering after the first month or two.

This post was edited by hairmetal4ever on Wed, Apr 23, 14 at 13:28