Your University of Arizona can provide you a list of soil test labs or you could also contact UMASS, the Universtiy of Massachussetts, who will test soils from anywhere for about $13.00 last I looked.

Thank you kimmsr, I will look into UMASS as you suggested. I did check with UA two years ago, and the cheapest they referred me to was about $125.00 to do a test. I did have one done at that time, but my soil still seems to be lacking something , or several things , as it still will not grow things as it used to.
Thanks
Ken

Here's a few soil test facilities in AZ. I got these from a two year old post here on GW so I don't know if they're still in business or not but you could try. I'll keep looking, it shouldn't be too hard to find one. Soil tests should cost around $20 or so. Have you checked with your local cooperative extention office?

Greg
Southern Nevada

Chandler Analytical
571 N. 54th St.
Chandler AZ 85226
480-963-2495

MotZZ Laboratory, Inc
2109 S 48th St, Suite 101
Tempe AZ 85282
Ph: 602-454-2376

Aquatic Consulting and Testing, Inc.
1525 W. University Dr, Suite 106
Tempe, AZ 85281
480-921-8044

Greg, Thanks a million, I'll call them tomorrow
Ken

I did have one done at that time, but my soil still seems to be lacking something , or several things , as it still will not grow things as it used to.
It's entirely possible that nothing is lacking. The flip side of a soil test is to see if anything is present in excess. Elevated salts, elevated boron, one nutrient too high to allow uptake of another, etc. A soil test doesn't always tell you what to add. It often tells you what to remove (if feasible). And if the the test is comprehensive but does not show any significant excesses or deficiencies, then something else (i.e. plant disease, poor drainage, soil compaction, over planting, too much shade, over watering, under watering etc.) or combination of factors is likely responsible for the poor plant growth and all of the soil tests in the world won't help.

Yes, but having a soil test performed is a great starting point.

Greg
Southern Nevada

It sure is but when someone says "I had a soil test and still nothing grows because I still think something is missing" it sounds like they may be struggling with a touch of tunnel vision. In those cases, I like to mention that it may or may not help depending on what the actual problem is and also, that looking for excesses in addition to deficiencies will increase the chances of success. I never said a soil test is a bad thing to do. I'm just trying to expand the view a little.

I called and motzz lab will do a simple test for $30.00 . I will have that done. I really appreciate all the tips and will take all your advice into consideration. I'd like to make amendments soon, in the fall and hopefully be ready for spring. I've had two sad years in the garden, in spite of skipping a year, hoping the soil would heal.
Hope to get it back on track this next spring.
Thanks
Ken

In addition to that soil test you may want to dig in and do these simple soil tests,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

Also try Earthco soil testing. Here's the link below...

Here is a link that might be useful: Soil Tests

I sent a soil sample off to Motzz lab that Greg informed me of. Their basic soil test is $30.00. Kimmsr, I know the answers to most of your advice, such as drainage is fine. Smell is great, worms were plentiful when we planted this past spring. I haven't done your jar test as yet. This garden used to be great at producing, but three years ago I acquired a large amount of what I thought was compost and I plowed in about 20 yards of it in trying to get the soil even better than it was. That turned out to be closer to mulch than compost and I destroyed the nitrogen in the garden. I let it sit idle for the next two years, and replanted it this year. As I said I really thought the soil had rebounded when I saw large quantities of worms in each trowel I would take out when I put my plants in, but was very dissappointed at how things grew. I really think it is still lacking in nitrogen, but will wait for the soil test answers before I do anything.
One other question. If I'm correct and it is low in nitrogenn would chicken manure that is three years old be a good choice to boost the nitrogen? I have an abundance of it processed into pellet form that is at least three years old.
Thanks all for all your input.
Ken

Aged manure has far less nitrogen, compared to fresh manure. If it has been rained on, it has even less. But don't guess, test! Manure can be tested just like soil.

People who make compost from livestock manure and bedding often have to add nitrogen to the pile to get it cooking right. Assuming that any fresh manure has enough nitrogen for your purposes is a common mistake.

OP, did you get your soil test back? What did it tell you?

unasmith
I did get the soil test back and it is lacking in nitrogen.
I've been told the best thing to use is blood meal, but I'm really having a hard time finding it except at home depot in 2 lb bags at a high price. I cannot find it at a farm supply in 50 lb bags. I'm considering using a large amount of chicken manure instead of the blood meal.

Improperly stored manure allowed to age does loose a lot of the Nitrogen it once had, that is why a pile of manure can have a strong ammonia odor, Nitrogen loss. Properly composted the Nitrogen in manure is stabilized so while that N may not appear on a test that relies on the solubility of the nutrient it is still present. Any manure that is simply piled up and allowed to "age" is being wasted.

Chicken manure also usually comes mixed with bedding, and may not be as high in nitrogen as you require. If you are paying for it, not getting it free, then ask the supplier to provide a nutrient analysis. You want to see a laboratory analysis that includes the different nitrogen compounds, not a home test kit analysis.

For an overview of the nitrogen-only fertilizers commonly used in agriculture, see the service bulletin "Selecting Forms of Nitrogen Fertilizer" from Ohio State University Extension (link below). Then, call your local extension service office and ask them for names of distributors in your area. You're having problems finding sources because the market for these fertilizers is largely wholesale, not retail.

Here is a link that might be useful: Selecting Forms of Nitrogen Fertilizer

Ken1, please say more about this chicken manure in pellet form. Where does it come from, what is it supposed to be used for, and what is the nutrient profile?