You should be fine with that. My only caution would be with the Blue Ram. They are very sensitive fish that are somewhat difficult to keep alive...especially for a first-timer. They like slightly acidic, soft water that is kept slightly warmer than a typical tropical tank. I would stay away from that one until you've gained some more experience.

I think those fish should get along fine. Redtail Sharks are one of my favorites but can be instigators. They rarely do any harm but might chase some of the other fish around.

Might as well just go with plastic plants on your first tank. It will be much easier to manage and clean. Plus, I'm guessing you have an undergravel filter and live plants generally require a different setup (lights and filters) to thrive and do well.

Yes, you will need to cycle your tank before you add your fish. It will take about a month. There are a few options for cycling: 1. buy a couple goldfish and put them in (then remove them before you add your real fish). 2. purchse some starter bacteria from your local fish store. 3. sprinkle some fish food in there and let it break down in the tank.

Good luck and have fun!

Finn

Thanks for the info Finn, helps a lot!

the only thing i would add to the above advice is to also provide pet shop shale as additional hiding places. most importantly is to allow the tank to go through the nitrogen cycle and buy a test kit (ammonia/nitrite/nitrate) to monitor the cycle. Actually,I would start with a few feeder guppies, as they are very cheap, to help initiate the cycle.

Cycling the tank is the process of developing good bacteria to break down fish waste to keep the water from becoming toxic. If Raul sees this thread he can explain it better than me. Start with 2 plattys [their hardy fish]. After a few weeks ammonia will build up in the water [get test kit or have store test it]. The ammo will build to a toxic level [may kill the fish] then suddenly drop to zero. Your water will never be better than at this point. Add more fish slowly to let more bacteria form to adjust to the larger amount of fish waste and uneaten food.
Much of this bacteria resides in the filter material so it's best not to change it all at once or have two filters or a bio wheel. Good luck. Don't forget after cycling you need to do regular water changes and test for ammo and ph once a month or so.

I disagree somewhat james. Yeah, you could start with the platys and be fine (just feed them lightly and be prepared that they could die)...no issue there. However, when the ammonia drops the water is not at its best point. Ammonia drops because the population of nitrosomonas bacteria has risen and has oxygenated the ammonia ions into nitrites. Thus, when ammonia drops, nitrites rise, which are also extremely toxic to fish. It will take another week or two for nitrobacter bacteria to build up and oxygenate the nitrites into nitrates, which are relatively harmless to fish. At this point, the water will be safe to slowly add more fish like you've mentioned. Just make sure you aren't adding too many at once or feeding too much (like you mention) or you may see another spike in ammonia and then nitrites.

My only concern is the dwarf gourami, which now a days, unless you can get them from a good breeder, run a high possibility of carrying internal parasites. The breeders call them ticking time bombs. So be prepared. some of mine survice with two bouts of parasites but I will not buy them anymore for that reason. Did much research on them and seems to be very common now. (fed hormones as well to speed up growth which weekens immune system) Also, mine when they reached maturity became highly territorial, but depends on individual. any thing that looks like them (same size so on) can cause problems in MY experience. I eventually tried schools of faster fish - priscella tetras, rainbows (which were too much for blue neon dwarf at feeding time, and he was move in with glass cats (asian) and is now fine) They love vegetable matter and mine much on alage on live plants (roots so on) all the time, so supplement if you dont' keep live. Anubias species are pretty tough for any fish that eats plants and is what I keep.

I prefer live plants however, as there is organisms on them that some fish like to eat (gourami will pick all day long) and they provide natural filter system. EAsy plant again is Anubias species, expensive as hard to find, but well worht it. Grow on driftwood or not rough appropriate rock.

(best site for anubia education by russian guy... ) Note some are NOT appropriate for under water, even if sold as such. Slow growing, low light easy to maintain, and tough skin. ) I love them and trying to find as many types as I can. All I have now for the most part in my tanks, I use wood with suction cups, attach plants and sucker them where I need them. Back and side walls, even floor of tank. Driftwood without them in center of tank. Really easy to care for when doing maintenance. Note his photo of entire back wall of mesh with plants on them!) Best Sherry

(my link was banned please email me if you like for this most informative site with tons of photos at Sherryazure@yahoo.com) boo hoo... or just type in anubias and look for t-o-p -t-r-o-p-i-c-a-ls with eugene zagnitko as the author, this link is not a place for selling things so really don't like this block thingy!!!)

I would not go with underground filter, better to use outside bio wheel or other high quality. they get messed up fast often. And, much easier to clean so on. You only need 1/4 inch of sand for bio culture, unless you have root planted tank. (not always easy for beginner) Vacume clean gravel. Gouramis can be shy esp with ohter agressive fish (and will get stressed and sick fast) and need driftwood or hiding places. They love and need planted tanks to do best.

re cory cats - you need a school of these. Again, my dwarf gourami (one of ) picked on my smaller albinos at feeding time, (they go all over - follow the food) I am not suggesting not to get dwarfs, (honey or pearl may be more peaceful??) just learned the hard way that they are specific to say the least in many things. So get a school of the larger types of cories.

With your size of tank, all should do well, esp if you provide barries of rocks, wood and plants so each (shark, gourami) (never owned a ram) has their own territory.

Best Sherry

Sherry:

Anubas are not hard to find, and not at all expensive. You just have to know where to look. They are also about as stupid proof an aquarium plant as you can get. Check out the following.

I've bought from this seller a number of times and always received very healthy plants, with quick, FREE shipping.

http://stores.ebay.com/Aquadise-Store

BTW: I do agree about Cory cats: Never less than 5 - 6 of each species.

Personally, I like Water Sprite and so-called plant bulbs. You should be able to find them at a pet shop that specializes in tropical fish.

Thanks everyone for the great info. I am cycling my tank now. I bought some feeder guppies to start. I have tested the water and the ammonia is coming up ever so slightly. Do I change the water at all when cycling? I am using plastic plants now, but have bought live plants to use. Will AMAZON SWORD,VALS SPIRALIS, ALT REINECKII grow in gravel or will I need something else. I tried to get plants that need the same light. What fertilizer do I need? Thanks,Joyce

"Will AMAZON SWORD,VALS SPIRALIS, ALT REINECKII grow in gravel or will I need something else?"

Yes, they all will grow in the gravel. The amazon sword feeds from the root. I think the vals. does also. The smaller gravels seem to work the best. Florite is an excellent gravel for plants. Just the right size and it has an unlimited supply of iron. Very natural looking also, it helps bring out the colors of the plants.

"I tried to get plants that need the same light."

All 3 would do best in 2.5W or better per gallon fluorescent lighting. Don't go too much over that or you will have to inject CO2 to keep algae down.

" What fertilizer do I need?"

I wouldn't add anything just yet. The fish do most of the work for you as natural ferts. Also, when plants are introduced to a new aquarium they get a slight shock. They may or may not grow real quick. They get a little die off. They stall in growth. Then they get out of that mode and grow "normally". All or none of these things can happen. So, wait it out. If the plant starts to show a sign, like thin leaves with no color, yellowing leaves, burnt looking edges etc. then treat them with the appropriate nutrient. If anything gat a fert. stick/tablet with as little to no phosphates in it (the middle number. ex: 5-1-5, the 1 represents phosphate or phosphorus). Put this near the Amazon Sword, they are heavy root feeders.

"I am cycling my tank now. I bought some feeder guppies to start."

I personally don't like cycling with feeder guppies.
Mainly because they can be ill allready. They can carry disease because of the poor conditions they are subject to. Think about it. There are usually 100's in the tank. The water is usally cloudy from all the ammonia. Most likely there where deads in the tank when you got them. I don't even reccomend buying them as feeders because of this. I would grow my own if I kept the bigger carnivores.

If they do surrvive they will multiply. Unless you don't plan on keeping them. You could always give them back to the pet store.

"I have tested the water and the ammonia is coming up ever so slightly. Do I change the water at all when cycling?"

When cycling with fish (another thing I don't do anymore, unless you are using live plants, which you allready stated you just got) Try to keep the ammonia under 1ppm. If it goes over that do PWC's to bring it down. When you add the live plants you may never see the ammonia level or nitrite level spike. The plants use it up if they are growing good. Some call this the "silent cycle".

Other tips on plants:
1)reduce surface agitation from things like filter returns/water falls, remove bubble wands and stones.
2)Use proper lighting fluorescent or MH. Use at least 2 watts fluorescent per gallon of the tank. Color of the light also helps a little. Plants seem to get an edge from anything with a K or kelvin rating between 5000K-10000K. IMO/IME plants also look better in this lighting. The colors are more vibrant.

3) CO2 is the number one aquatic plant deficiantcy. A product called Flourish Excel by Seachem really helps alot. Stick to the dirrection on the bottle. CO2 injection is the best for them, but this stuff really helps.