Software
Houzz Logo Print
tophers

Considering Pin Oak

16 years ago

I am considering planting a Pin Oak in my back yard and have a couple of options.

My neighbor across the street has 2 large Pin Oaks (about 50' tall) and 1 smaller one (about 30' tall, but not fully filled in yet). Her house was built 22 yrs ago and she had a different tree out front first, but after a few years, it died. A Pin Oak seedling started up there and she left it...it is now the 50' one in her front yard...about 18 years old. Her 30' one was about 6-8' tall when we moved in 6 years ago (also started as a seedling, which she left). Their neighbor behind them has a 60' one, as well. Pin Oaks seem to do well around here and while there are a few around here, it doesn't seem to be overplanted here.

My neighbor has some seedlings that are about 1-2' tall in parts of her garden and is willing to give them to me if I want. Or, I can go to the nursery and get one that is about 10' tall or so, but I haven't looked at the roots to see if they are pot-bound. I've read that Pin Oaks transplant well, but I wonder if a seedling would catch up in a few years to the nursery-bought one...perhaps even do better.

I've lost several trees to Verticillium Wilt (confirmed) and most things I've read say that Pin Oaks are resistant, but a couple references said they were susceptible.

BTW, the space is approx. 45' from house to back fence, and the tree would go a little over 1/2 way in between...closer to the back fence. Side-to-side space is much larger. No over head wires, no sewer lines nearby, but sprinkler system pipes (PVC) go here and there in the area. The area occasionally floods 1-2" deep for about and hour or so after heavy rains in the winter...no flooding with our regular drizzle/light rains the rest of the fall/winter/spring. Full sun.

So would Pin Oak be a good choice? If so, should I try one of the seedlings or one from the nursery?

Comments (10)

  • 16 years ago

    Main problem, when pin oak is used where access beneath desired is low branching. If you cut off lowest branches next ones above droop down. Tree has to get fairly well along in life before this occurrence is no longer a problem.

    And not a small-growing tree, 50' isn't even out of medium tree size range yet. Seattle has pin oaks over 100' tall.

  • 16 years ago

    bboy's point about downswept branching is true, but the tree choice is a good one for Cascadia if you want a big tree in that spot.

    Dan

  • 16 years ago

    Good point...every year, my neighbor is cutting back her lower branches, as they span her driveway, having to cut back the ones above that have lowered down to where the branches below once were.

    How about the seedling v. nursery plant issue? Any opinions or experiences I can draw from?

    And has anyone seen one suffer from V. Wilt?

  • 16 years ago

    Your neighbors' cutting branches back yearly sounds more like tipping rather that limb removal as is what the other posters are talking about. It would take several years for the next lowest limbs to droop noticibly.

  • 16 years ago

    As the owner of a decades old pin oak, planted in the 1960's I can testify that the sagging of the branches is remarkably quick and bothersome.

    Verticillium can also be assertive, this does have potential to be an important limitation on future planting.

    No difference between nursery trees and seedlings, except seedlings you dig yourself, except such seedlings won't be grafted or rootbound.

    Unless you decide to try a named cultivar, propagated by grafting.

  • 16 years ago

    Verticillium can be assertive in general, not on pin oaks specifically. I had a vine maple blight off after dumping and spreading "black dirt" nearby. It looked like verticillium to me, and occurred after the arrival of the then presumably infested organic material.

    But I never had it confirmed by a lab. Other trees and shrubs have been grown in the same space for years since, without a repeating of the same syndrome.

    Anyway, the pin oak is near this area and has likewise never done anything to make me think it had verticillium. It does get dead small interior branches, as do various other oaks planted in this area.

  • 16 years ago

    ...various other oaks planted in this geographical area.

  • 16 years ago

    I am not an oak expert. Any chance of planting a similar oak but not a pin oak? Pin oaks obviously work in your neghbor's yard. Perhaps a red oak in yours?

    Variety is the spice of life is all.

  • 16 years ago

    I've considered Red Oak (NRO, I believe). There are some at a nearby shopping center, but planted in a large grassy area, instead of the parking lot planting strips. They are more round in shape, as opposed to the Pin Oak's rather conical shape (I like both). They look very nice and healthy. I've just not seen a lot of them at the nurseries, so I wasn't sure if they grew well around here without a lot of maintenance. Seeing the Jack-and-the-bean-stalk growth of the Pin Oak across the street was what made me think of that one. Of course, the maintenance (trimming lower branches) on the Pin Oak is a consideration that I had forgotten about. The neighbor lady does both trimming back (tipping?) as well as cutting off lower branches. That tree grows like mad. I've seen her trim it a couple times in the same year.

  • 16 years ago

    Quercus rubra is very common in local plantings and makes a huge brontosaurean tree where successful, quite out of scale with a typical building lot. Younger specimens are often quite gaunt, in the manner of Ginkgo biloba. And the local autumn display is often lacking in brightness and appeal.

    If you want to try an oak there are many other less usual ones that are more interesting. Perhaps the most colorful one seen locally producing lasting specimens (one stump I examined on a valley floor location in Auburn appeared to have something like 105 growth rings) is Q. alba. This is more lively than usual both in summer leaf and in fall.

    Otherwise, where a nice branching structure was the main goal, with bright leaf color not being required I would plant either Q. frainetto or Q. lobata. The first has striking leaf shapes in addition to producing a tall, spreading, elevated crown in time.