Well, a soil test first would be the "right" way to do it, you would then know what nutrients the soil might need, the % of organic components and the pH level. Most of us don't do the "right" thing, though. If I had the chance, I would probably have gotten the soil test first.

Unless you live in California (maybe a few other states) and have to go to the private sector, getting soil tested is easy and cheap. There's no research involved, just call your county agent for instructions. Look in the county listings for "agricultural" or "cooperative" extension. You can bring the results to the forum if you have questions about them.

The pH and phosphorus levels may need to be adjusted when preparing the soil. Other nutrients can be added from the surface, but it's best to have some idea of what is in short supply and what is already present in excess. The test will also reveal whether your soil retains nutrients well. It can save money in the long run and head off problems.

Many people have succeeded without soil testing, but why not find out what you are dealing with.?

Unfortunately I am in California, I've been searching for a place where I can get my soil tested locally and I'm having a hard time. I've been searching for 'soil testing' is there something else I should look for? Would it be in the phonebook?

Thanks!

google up 'analytical testing labs california' or 'analytical testing california' or 'analytical labs california'. There are a lot of labs in CA.

However, unless you plant to grow something commercially or are near a Superfund site or in the desert, non-desert CA soil has everything you need except organic matter and N. Plenty of everything else. Add compost and an N source like Alfalfa meal, blood meal, etc and what ever you want to grow will be happy, at least where soil is concerned.

I have to disagree. Saying that California soils have everything you need is an oversimplification. Soil chemistry isn't cookbook ingredients-simple; rather, soil chemistry involves relative ratios of the important nutrients. A soils report provides a useful education, but like so much of education these days, you'll have to pay for it. A good soils test will help you understand what your soils need and how to add those ingredients in the most cost-effective way.

I can give a very concrete example. The soils in my gardens have more than adequate magnesium and calcium. In cookbook terms, the absolute amounts of Ca and of Mg are more than adequate. But the ratio of calcium:magnesium is important. Why? Because chemically, the rose doesn't distinguish between the two. As a result, a surfeit of magnesium overwhelms the plant's ability to absorb calcium. Calcium is essential to plant usage of nitrogen. Therefore, an objective of all fertilizing in my garden is adding calcium and never adding magnesium to improve the ratio of Ca:Mg. Given the choice, I will fertilize with compounds that have calcium and avoid every compound that has magnesium in it. I will also add gypsum every year, with the same objective. Without the guidance of a soils scientist, I wouldn't know that I had the choice of a calcium compound that can buffer the low pH in my garden or a calcium compound to adding nitrogen to my garden.

If I had only 3 or 4 roses, none of this would matter much. But since I planted my entire garden which includes hundreds of roses from scratch, this information has been invaluable. If I weren't aware of this issue, I wouldn't understand why the roses I planted in unamended soil (before I had the full soils report) show the foliage symptoms they do.

There are important issues throughout California related to soils pH. In SoCal, it's high pH. In NorCal, it can be low pH. Balancing pH is important. With low pH/high acid soils, a non-nutrient that can have a toxic impact on many plants: Aluminum. I also now know that my soils are high in micronutrients and that I must never, ever, use fertilizer with micro-nutrients. They are expensive and a complete waste of money. Excess micronutrients can cause serious imbalances. That fantastically dark green foliage I see in my roses is actually a reflection of excessively available micro-nutrients.

I say go for the soils report if you afford it. If you can't afford it, read about the soils in your area and fake it.

Very good point berndoodle . I agree .
A basic soil test from your local Agricultural Extension Agency will provide a pH reading and salt solubility number . The info to contact them is in your local phone book or on the web . Our county charges one dollar for a basic test .

Often a garden in one part of your yard will have a very different pH number than another part of your property. The only way to know is to get a soil test . It is recommended that you have a basic test done every two years .

A basic test done by your county is cheap and easy and gives you a base line . You can work on the basics and go from there with more complicated testing when you are ready .

Gatormom, California doesn't do soil tests. Californians have to go to for-profit labs.