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Screening with marcescent trees?

15 years ago

I've rediscovered the term "marcescent." I'm looking for trees (or large shrubs) that hold their leaves through the winter here in zone 5 to help block a street view.

I already knew from personal experience that Parrotia and Acer triflorum are marcescent�at least in their early years. I also purchased three small Viburnum 'Cree' last year based on comments here on Gardenweb. It's way too soon to know how they'll do, but they have survived this year's drought. And then this week I learned about Q. Crimson Spire here on Gardenweb.

My interest is in finding trees/large shrubs that can be planted behind a mixed shrub border along a busy street lined with 50' utility poles. I've already removed a large white pine and white ash that were too heavily pruned by the utility company, and this winter I'll be removing a large sugar maple for the same reason. The strip of land (20-30 feet) next to the utility easement will be full sun once the maple is gone, but a mature red oak and silver maple and a neighbor's locust shade the area back away from the street to the north.

The Crimson Spire would work very well as long as I plant it about 20 feet from the easement. My only concern would be its growth habit since it would be near the drip line of the red oak and might be affected by that oak's proximity.

I have two questions.

What are others' experiences with Parrotia and Acer triflorum? Will they reliably hold their leaves through winter or has my experience been unusual? If they will hold their leaves through the winter, does this characteristic fade as the trees age?

What other marcescent trees (or large shrubs) might be worth evaluating?

Comments (3)

  • 15 years ago

    How about considering Viburnum pragense that is similar to 'Cree' except that it has a finer, willow shaped leaf that is green on top and silver beneath? Holds its green color quite well in the winter. It should do OK in zone 5.
    It may be too large for your space, but I deliberately planted a marcescent shingle oak (Q. imbricaria) between large windows on the house and a neighbor that sits higher and could view over the fence. It does the job with winter color that is dark brown. Not sure if columnar forms are available.
    Sawtooth oak is another spring shedder with a brighter tan color, but doesn't hold up well to ice storms like shingle.
    hortster

  • 15 years ago

    I agree with the species that have been mentioned thus far, except that I've not had Acer triflorum hold old foliage through the winter here in KY.

    I'd think 'Cree' would think itself tortured to be exposed to central IN conditions - are you just mean?

    V. x pragense and V. x rhytidophylloides selections should be more tolerant of your winter cold and winds, though I'd term them evergreens - not marcescent.

    Among oaks, the several mentioned are good, as is Quercus pagoda (formerly Q. falcata var. pagodifolia) - Cherrybark Oak. To select others, visit nurseries in winter and pick out trees with old foliage hanging on. This trait is variable among some common and excellent species, like Swamp White Oak, Pin Oak, and others.

    A great plant not yet mentioned: Vernal Witchhazel, Hamamelis vernalis. You get the bonus of fab fall color and fragrant late winter/early spring flowers.

    Carpinus betulus will hold leaves all winter. It is often used as hedging in European countries.

    Lonicera fragrantissima should be able to tough out your winters, and not be an invasive species while holding leaves for screening.

  • 15 years ago

    Thanks for the suggestions horster and viburnumvalley!

    I've had V. x rhydidophylloides 'Willowwood' that I first planted in 1980. I've propagated them over the years and now have six full-size plants along with a few smaller ones. In our case, nearly all the leaves have dropped by the end of December. They're decent winter-time screening plants because of the number of stems rather than foliage. I remember reading about V. x pragense when I bought the 'Willowwood', but have no recollection of why I made the choice I did 31 years ago. I'll have to take another look.

    I bought the 3 small 'Cree' based in part on comments by someone here on Gardenweb who's located in eastcentral Illinois and seemed to be having success. I've planted mine along the west edge of the property rather than at the street because they're very well protected from westerly winds in that location. Plus, they'll get only morning sun in the summer and somewhat filtered sun through mid-day in the winter. It's a calculated gamble and I hope the plants won't think me "mean!"

    I forgot to mention my Lonicera fragrantissima! I planted 3 in 1978 in a bed of crushed limestone along the west edge of our property. Only one survived, but it has thrived and I actually took a small division several years ago and that second plant is also doing well. However, L. fragantissima is now on the Indiana list of invasive species. Even though I've never seen a berry on mine or any evidence of it spreading, I won't plant any more of them because of its inclusion on the list.

    I've got H. virginiana, but not vernalis. H. virginiana works well for us, but not as a screen of any sort. I'll have to look into vernalis.

    I'll also be looking at other oaks. None of the native oaks in our neighborhood (white, bur, red, michauxii, etc) hold their leaves, but my favorite nursery has mature (white and swamp white) that do! Of course, I need fastigiate trees because of the power lines and their overzealous tree-trimming contractor.

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