Go to Wally World and get a $5 water meter. The part that goes in the water is a bit smaller than a chopstick. It has three levels: red (dry), green (moist), and blue (wet). I wait until the soil is dry all the way through and then I water thoroughly. Some people wait for leaves to crinkle a bit, which I do to keep an eye on my outdoor stuff (in case mother nature doesn't take care of it). I use the meter on the indoor stuff.

I also use a water meter, I'm sure its similar if not the same as the one mentioned above. I purchased mine at Home Depot. Seems to do the job, I have been succesfully using it for almost 2 years. I'm with you, can't seem to get the hang of the chopstick or sticking my finger in the soil. I can't live without mine, I use it every time before I water. Keeps a lot of guess work out of the equation...

Use a soil mix that drains so well that it's impossible to overwater.

I have repotted many of my large plants into a 50-50 mix of perlite and turface. This formula provides superior aeration without compromising moisture retention. What it lacks is nutrients which must be supplemented.

I have no fear of overwatering. All the excess drains right out. And the clay component of the Turface does not dry out completely so roots do not dessicate. And at the same time there is ample oxygenation and gas exchange at the root level.

My mix is only 20% organic and the rest unpainted fish tank gravel, high fired clay, and perlite. I use a slow release fertilizer in almost all of mine but at a lesser dosage than normally called for. In about two more months, I'll add a little more to last until next spring. I still use the meter just to be safe though. Xerophyte, how often and what do you use to feed? I have thought about going to straight hf clay. It's not Turface, but a similar product. I actually get it for $4 a bag at Sams Club. It is OilDri (used to absorb oil spills, but says can be used as a soil ammendment). I did all kinds of test on it two years ago and it never broke down. I have grown stuff in it alone. It holds water in the core of each little piece and slowly releases it, as well as nutrients. I was shocked that it turned out to not break down. I was not willing to pay a fortune for the Turface and was having a heck of a time finding someone who even carried it. Anyway, I use Schulze C & S mixed for every watering. I watered first then used the mix with the fert in it. Things went well. I had the five plants in mame bonsai pots. They were then quite neglected as I had back surgery adn neglected everything.

I'm still sticking my finger in the pot,but I'm going to get a water meter.

I have a moisture meter, and use that, but know of the skewer/chopstick method.

what you should be using is a chopstick or shish-ka-bob skewer. the important thing is it MUST be made of bamboo. only difference is the thickness/durability.

anyway, you leave the skewer/chopstick in the pot at all times. the bamboo absorbs the moisture, and turns "wet color". that is your indicator. it might work with non-bamboo chopsticks, but they do not last as long. so to check moisture, you remove the skewer or chopstick once a day or so, and when it's dry, you water. you can usually buy bamboo skewers at any grocery store for pretty cheap. if you have small pots, cut the skewers to length.

hope this helps!

tanyag

i get turface 50-lb for $10.50

for my smaller cactus/ succulent plants and pots, I mix in some garden soil which has some nutrition in it, and I supplement that with an occasional very dilute liquid feed of Algoflash 4-6-8 tomato formula with micros.

in the bigger pots, I add some 6-month Osmocote plus with micros. but the calcium is still lacking, so i also add gypsum which provides Calcium. the tropical succulents I have also have a higher demand for magnesium, so to those pots each spring i add a slow release hi-mag palm fertilizer.

I used to liquid feed everything, but it is an extra hassle so now I just go slow-release in the spring and everything grows well.

i assume most nutrients get used up or leached out by the time winter dormancy sets in, so salt levels are manageable.

x

curious computer, thanks for the tip, I'll def give that a try.